Which brand of oil filter has the best anti-drainback valve?

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i think the silicone anti drain back valves are alot better at stopping drain back. those are higherer quality, though i dont know which filter is the BEST.
 
The reason I ask this question is because I once tried a FRAM on a Toyota I owned and when I changed the oil and filter there was no oil whatsoever in the filter, even though the filter had an anti-drainback. People are told that most wear occurs at start-up, which means you must have a good anti-drainback. But recently in the oil filter tests, Bob has found that flow is really important-a FRAM may be better than a Mobil 1 oil filter when it comes to flow. So an oil filter that has good flow is important. Personally, I would still be nervous about using a FRAM. Maybe a K&N would have good oil flow and a good anti-drainback?
 
one question we all had was that how much restriction flow can an anti drainback have on a filter. the regular fram had alot of flow, u remember that right. but then bob showed the higher quality fram with the silicone anti drainback valve which is stiffer than the normal one and the flow was wayy less. i was thinking that that anti drainback valve does have some resistance.

how is ur filter mounted though? vertical?

what oil filter companies are you concidering?

pure one has the silicone drain back valve (orange) and the person at PureOne told me in a email that a silicone anti drain back valve holds up alot better than a normal rubber. thats why their line of pure one held that valve.
 
Just a thought, I wonder if the silicone anti-drainback valve is more important in the winter? For some reason, I suspect that the silicone elastomers are less affected by low temperatures than nitrile rubber (or whatever it is that they use).
 
Just an observation on my 3.4lt GM V6. (1998)
Since have switched to K&N from Fram..
rolleyes.gif

The cold start up valve chatter has almost disapeared, generally using M1 oil. I may try a Wix filter next, But K&N has served me well..
Jean
 
Someone said in a post a while back that any oil filter is going to lose the oil in it after a car or truck has been sitting for eight hours. I have also heard that some brands of oil filters are better than others at not losing the oil in the oil filter after the engine is shut off. It seems to me that there are several things a oil filter must do. The oil filter must allow good oil flow. The oil filter must filter well. The oil filter must allow oil to flow through it if the oil filter gets plugged. And if an anti-drainback is required on a filter, that adbv must work properly and at the correct pressure. My car is a Saturn SL2 with the oil filter mounted in a horizontal position (it is the pits to reach). It requires an adbv. As far as I have been able to determine, FRAM makes the orginial equipment Saturn oil filter. I have tried several brands of oil filter, trying to find the best one for my car. I tried the Mobil 1 oil filter, but it is expensive and it disturbs me that the Mobil 1 is designed for engine size and not more precisely for the particular type of vehicle it will be on. And then I heard about the filter tests and how the Mobil 1 did not flow so good. My favorite filter had become the Wix but now I hear there may be some questions as to its flow. I have used the Amsoil which is expensive and I have to order it and have it shipped to me. I guess the next oil change I will use a K&N.
 
the adbv in my opinion is over rated.

it only holds oil in half the filter (remember there is an inlet and an outlet. you cant plug one hole and leave the other open and expect it to stay 100% full)

thats like putting a cap on a bottle of water to prevent evaporation, and not doing anything about the hole in the bottom of the bottle.

although that analogy is not entirely accurate for this discussion, as the adbv WILL help, but it is still over rated.
 
i agree with you.

quote:

Originally posted by cryptokid:
the adbv in my opinion is over rated.

it only holds oil in half the filter (remember there is an inlet and an outlet. you cant plug one hole and leave the other open and expect it to stay 100% full)

thats like putting a cap on a bottle of water to prevent evaporation, and not doing anything about the hole in the bottom of the bottle.

although that analogy is not entirely accurate for this discussion, as the adbv WILL help, but it is still over rated.


 
quote:

Originally posted by Mystic:
The reason I ask this question is because I once tried a FRAM on a Toyota I owned and when I changed the oil and filter there was no oil whatsoever in the filter, even though the filter had an anti-drainback.

If it is the 2.2L in the Toyota's then the oil filter sits vertical on the block. I've never had oil in the oil filters when I changed out the oil filter in this application. From OEM, Bosch, and Purolator. What gives?
 
another thing i happen to realise is that the adbv also causes a pressure loss.

this is because it relies on pressure to form a seal, pressure that must be broken and constantly held open, although the pressure loss is most likely small, perhaps 1-5psi. just try sucking on the exit hole of a NEW oil filter, you can "feel" the adbv open and shut.

is the oil pressure loss of a couple psi a big deal? nah not at all. however its just one more thing to think about, esp in older worn out engines in which they are in the danger levels of low oil pressure. if you can spare a couple psi, i still think the adbv is a worth while thing to have, but dont prop it up as some almighty engine saver.

probably the best solution is to install a remote oil filter very low (as low as the oil pan or lower) and have it mounted vertical so it is awalys filled with oil. then you do not need an adbv, so pressure loss would be nill.
 
quote:

I've never had oil in the oil filters when I changed out the oil filter in this application.

i suspect the oil is draining from the center of the filter. it probably still retains oil in the outside portion however. next time you do an oil change and note that there is no oil in the filter, take the old filter and punch a hole in the caseing with a nail. see if oil now leaks out?
 
The center hole in the filter is where the oil is attempting to enter the filter and "drain back" so it is not a leak point. I have had Pure 1 filters that sat on my drain pan for a week or more and I still had to put a nail in the ADBV hole to push the silicone out of the way and let it drain so, at least for that filter, the valve was working fine. Just saw a strange effect on my 02 4.3 Chevy truck. I was letting the pan drain while I loosened the filter. As the filter broke loose and started to leak, a small gusher of oil also came out of the pan drain hole. The filter must have loosened enough to allow the oil to run across the mounting plate and run through the oil pump. I dunnoe
dunno.gif
 
what you expierence with your truck may be the result of the location of the filter relative to oil galleys.

example: oil wont flow upwards while the engine is off, so if the filter is below the oil galleys, it most likely wont drain off through the outlet.
not all engines are like this, however, most notable a mazda rotary, which mounts its filter on the top of the engine. almost as high as the carborator.

think of it like this: fill up a pringles can with motor oil. now set the pringles can on its side and not how much oil comes out.
now turn the can upside down, and note the ramining oil that dribbles out.

on a side mounted filter or upside down filter, the oil may take longer than the pringles can to empty, as engines have tighter clearences than a gaping wide hole. but it should still happen, depending on the engines oiling configuration relative to filter hight v.s galley.

i wont dispute that avbd holds oil in the outer portion of the filter. but on my engine the center tube is awalys empty when the filter is removed, and no extra oil gushing happens after a 15 minute drain period.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Mystic:
My car is a Saturn SL2 with the oil filter mounted in a horizontal position (it is the pits to reach).

Have you been able to actually reach the oil filter without jacking the car up? I bought a set of ramps from WalMart, but would love to take them back and save the $$ if I only could figure out how to get my hand waaaaayyyy back there. My car is a 96SL2, DOHC with A/C and manual trans. I’d imagine the base model SL would be easier without the power steering pump in the way.
 
Some of the replies I received bring up additional questions. Why is it not possible for oil filters to be mounted vertically on engines so that oil can be poured into the oil filter doing a oil change, and you don't have to worry about adbvs? It seems so simple to me-why is this so hard for GM, Ford, etc., engineers? And the SL2 oil filter really is a bear to reach-poor design in my opinion. It can be helped by using a K&N so that you can use a wrench, and by quality designed oil filter wrenches that are designed to fit in tight places. My next oil change I am going to use the K&N, and see if it makes any difference. But I am somewhat confused by some of the oil filter testing that has been done. If an orange can FRAM can achieve what a Mobil 1 can achieve (in oil flow, at any rate), perhaps I might as well use the orange can FRAM, or a Saturn oil filter that is actually made by FRAM? I never thought I would say something like that-I was a total FRAM guy for a long time, but that was a long time ago.
 
my van is a vertically mount oil filter. though it still contains an anti drain back valve. SUCKS today i have the wrong fitler and now damaged threads.
 
In a vertically mounted filter (base up) the ADBV is there it keep the oil up in the cam and bearing galleries so they do not have to fill up on starting. I also have an old town car with a side mounted filter and it also seems to retain oil up in the 4.6 cam galleries pretty well. I use Motorcraft (pure) in it.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Employee#08:

quote:

Originally posted by Mystic:
The reason I ask this question is because I once tried a FRAM on a Toyota I owned and when I changed the oil and filter there was no oil whatsoever in the filter, even though the filter had an anti-drainback.

If it is the 2.2L in the Toyota's then the oil filter sits vertical on the block. I've never had oil in the oil filters when I changed out the oil filter in this application. From OEM, Bosch, and Purolator. What gives?


Until I discovered this site, I used to use nothing but fram tough guard oil filters. I have a 99 toyota camry with the 2.2. I found out that the tough guard filters are junk so at the last oil change I switched to a ac delco. It had a toyota filter when I purchased the car. When I removed it, no oil came out of the filter at all. Every time I changed the filter with the fram toughgard, oil went everywhere as the filter was still half full of oil.....even after sitting overnight. So I must come to the conclusion that even if the toughgard is junk, the silicon ADBV must work properly. I will know about the ac delco at the next filter change.
 
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