List of group 4 synthetic oils?

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Originally Posted By: sammy
That was my experience among others, and that is also what the NOACK tests on synthetic that suggests the same. Synthetics don't evap off as easy and they don't break down as soon.


If you want a great NOACK number, there are lots of conventional 20w-50s with them.
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comment on last 20-50 remark, bet it will not start in winter!! i am a fan + user of better synthetic oils, use amsoil mostly averages $9 a qt delivered with tax for their high end oils, also used redline but much more expensive but i believe their gear lubes like MT-90 are tops. used 5-20 valvoline semi-syn up to 5,000 in girls 2.5 malibu, took a qt and looked like water draining out, now using 5-30 amsoil signature series. only reason 5-20 is spec is MPG, in europe they do not spec 5-20 in the same engines as longevity trumps 1/2 mpg. i too would like to know whats is the oils as amsoil is blowing the propriety horn as well. i have been referred to info in amsoil MSDS for whats in it,their motorcycle oils say mild hydrocarbon, signature series 5-30 says The following components are listed for NJ: Distillates (petroleum), hydrotreated heavy
paraffinic; White mineral oil (petroleum); Distillates (petroleum), solvent-dewaxed heavy
paraffinic can anyone get a meaning from this info thanks
 
Originally Posted By: benjy
Distillates (petroleum), hydrotreated heavy
paraffinic; White mineral oil (petroleum); Distillates (petroleum), solvent-dewaxed heavy
paraffinic


Grp III basestock?
 
Well, benjy, a 20w-50 might start in winter, but I wouldn't want to try, nor would I want to listen to it, either.
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As for the MSDS, I'd swear that would be for a bottle of motor oil. I jest; don't read too much into an MSDS.
 
25W-70 starts at -7C in a J-Car 2.0 litre, as does 20W-50 and a tin of STP in everything that I used to run in my teens and 20s.
 
Back in the early 'eighties, we had one of our once in a decade really cold spells and I started our '76 Honda, running 10W-40 conventional, at -27F, which would be around -32C just doing the numbers in my head. The car had spent the night outside. The engine started reluctantly and only with the use of full choke. This car had a manual choke which you could usually avoid using.
The car started and ran and we drove it probably fifty miles total that day.
Just because something can be done doesn't make it best practice, so I'd probably not use a 10W-40 as a winter oil today.
 
Originally Posted By: sammy
Wiki always has the best info on the planet, here's what they say on benefits from using synthetics. Just as Wiki states I too have seen PROOF that almost all of these are true.

Advantages Advantages

The technical advantages of synthetic motor oils include:

Measurably better low- and high-temperature viscosity performance at service temperature extremes
Better chemical & shear stability
Decreased evaporative loss
Resistance to oxidation, thermal breakdown, and oil sludge problems
Extended drain intervals with the environmental benefit of less oil waste.
Improved fuel economy in certain engine configurations.
Better lubrication during extreme cold weather starts
Longer engine life
Superior protection against "ash" and other deposit formation in engine hot spots (in particular in turbochargers and superchargers) for less oil burnoff and reduced chances of damaging oil passageway clogging.
Increased horsepower and torque due to less initial drag on engine


Well some of those May be true. I'll take issue with the longer engine life one though. I'd need proof.

Originally Posted By: benjy
comment on last 20-50 remark, bet it will not start in winter!! i am a fan + user of better synthetic oils, use amsoil mostly averages $9 a qt delivered with tax for their high end oils, also used redline but much more expensive but i believe their gear lubes like MT-90 are tops. used 5-20 valvoline semi-syn up to 5,000 in girls 2.5 malibu, took a qt and looked like water draining out, now using 5-30 amsoil signature series. only reason 5-20 is spec is MPG, in europe they do not spec 5-20 in the same engines as longevity trumps 1/2 mpg. i too would like to know whats is the oils as amsoil is blowing the propriety horn as well. i have been referred to info in amsoil MSDS for whats in it,their motorcycle oils say mild hydrocarbon, signature series 5-30 says The following components are listed for NJ: Distillates (petroleum), hydrotreated heavy
paraffinic; White mineral oil (petroleum); Distillates (petroleum), solvent-dewaxed heavy
paraffinic can anyone get a meaning from this info thanks


Drained like water did it. So since you seem so knowledgeable do tell what you feel the film strength would have been and what film strength is required to keep the metal parts from touching.
What doesn't seem to be dawning on you is that oil film thickness isn't the deciding factor. The fact that there is an oil film is the important part.
If the oil film is half of that of thicker oil but the oil maintains it then exactly what gain are you seen by using oil like molasses as compared to water.
Your concerns aren't relevant really. Your need to be right and obviously closed mind is relevant though and I have to ask myself why you are here if you're already an expert.
 
i only run what is approved for my vehicle it has to be sn gf-5 and there has to be the starburst. Anything else will void the warranty
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
25W-70 starts at -7C in a J-Car 2.0 litre, as does 20W-50 and a tin of STP in everything that I used to run in my teens and 20s.

But, as I recall you saying, it's not something you'd care to repeat often. Besides, -7 isn't winter at all! I'm fairly certain I'll see that temperature before the month is out.
 
Oh, I'd never do it again, for sure...in fact I was into the 40s at the time, and it was only to demonstrate on here that there was no pile of failed engines from using something that was really far too thick to even be relevent (however is fairly commonly used here
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