Walmart SuperTech 5W20, 7.7kmi,'12 Kia Sportage LX

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Given that this is my wife's car and she doesn't treat it that well (is dirty most of the time, inside and out), I don't use any name brand lubricants on it and only perform the factory-recommended maintenance (at 7.5k intervals). I can certainly say that I'm pleasantly surprised by this UOA of Walmart's SuperTech oil. Guess it goes to show that an expensive synthetic is not always needed (at least for this engine/use/mileage combo). It and the Theta II engine seem to get along, at least for now!

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Looks great! I dont agree with their 9700 mile comment..i think 7500 mile oci is perfect! Is this supertech syn or conv.? What oil filter did you use?
 
Great report. Low insols, solid ending tbn, flash isn't too low, wear metals good. Why use anything else
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Proof that you can select an oil based on the spec's it meets and ignore the brand name or any label like "synthetic" or "synthetic blend".
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
ST dino oil?


Good ol' dino oil. $12.70 at my local Walmart.

Originally Posted By: Rolla07
Looks great! I dont agree with their 9700 mile comment..i think 7500 mile oci is perfect! Is this supertech syn or conv.? What oil filter did you use?
I agree. I may be able to pull that 9700 mile in the summer with some highway driving, but we use this thing to tow a landscape trailer on occasion and my wife will let it idle in the winter. Maybe once its past its 100k powertrain warranty I'll experiment
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As for the filer, I was using a Purolator Classic. Not bad for $3 and some change.
 
Originally Posted By: mhadden
Originally Posted By: Miller88
ST dino oil?


Good ol' dino oil. $12.70 at my local Walmart.


Looks good. But now I'm wondering if it was a WPP bottle or an XOM bottle...
 
I'm running the 5-30 Syn in 4 banger (non-turbo) as well and feel very comfortable at 7k OCI. If I were you I would stick with 7500 OCI with the Dino 5-20 and be happy. That combo looks great for your application.
 
ST strikes at that heart of brand name syn lovers! Hard to argue with results like this.

How much "better" would it have been to use PU or M1EP? Would he really get 2x or 3x "better" data to offset the costs? Nope.

Facts and data are often ignored, but never lie.
 
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Great report. You could just change your oil at 7.5K while under warranty and then 9K after your warranty is up and not worry about if there is any life left in the oil.
 
Good stuff, thanks for sharing. Not a lot of info on ST Dino.

I had an '11 Sportage EX for a while before I got my Sorento and really enjoyed it.

If for some reason you want to step up a bit (or a lot depending on how you look at it) QSGB seemed to make the engine in my Sportage really happy.
 
Originally Posted By: Deamos
Good stuff, thanks for sharing. Not a lot of info on ST Dino.



Agreed. Probably due to brand bigotry.

I have run ST dino further than many folks run their syns ... and yet my engine has not self-destructed and imploded, and UOAs come back fine.
 
Originally Posted By: mhadden
Originally Posted By: Miller88
ST dino oil?


Good ol' dino oil. $12.70 at my local Walmart.

Originally Posted By: Rolla07
Looks great! I dont agree with their 9700 mile comment..i think 7500 mile oci is perfect! Is this supertech syn or conv.? What oil filter did you use?
I agree. I may be able to pull that 9700 mile in the summer with some highway driving, but we use this thing to tow a landscape trailer on occasion and my wife will let it idle in the winter. Maybe once its past its 100k powertrain warranty I'll experiment
laugh.gif


As for the filer, I was using a Purolator Classic. Not bad for $3 and some change.


So you ran a cheap filter 7500 miles and the insols looked fine which means the filter was still filtering the oil just fine.
Kinda spanks the idea that a budget minded filter is done by 3000 or even 5000 miles.
I run my filters substantially longer and multiple oil change intervals. When one considers that a filter gets better with age and as contaminants build up I'm more confident than ever that in an already clean engine a 5000 mile fci is a complete waste and running it longer will increase the ability to trap smaller particulate.
Thanks for posting.
 
Originally Posted By: chainblu
Looks good. But now I'm wondering if it was a WPP bottle or an XOM bottle...
Explain to me the difference? I guess I've fallen off the acronym wagon. It was a dark blue bottle with black cap if that means anything.

Originally Posted By: dnewton3
ST strikes at that heart of brand name syn lovers! Hard to argue with results like this.

How much "better" would it have been to use PU or M1EP? Would he really get 2x or 3x "better" data to offset the costs? Nope.

Facts and data are often ignored, but never lie.

I've followed your input for a while and it prompted me to test with this "cheap" car (for some reason, I put the Korean's down there with the Chinese). I figured so long as it meets spec (SN), and follow the recommended intervals, I should be fine. It's proved to be right, so far!

Originally Posted By: Clevy
So you ran a cheap filter 7500 miles and the insols looked fine which means the filter was still filtering the oil just fine.
Kinda spanks the idea that a budget minded filter is done by 3000 or even 5000 miles.
I run my filters substantially longer and multiple oil change intervals. When one considers that a filter gets better with age and as contaminants build up I'm more confident than ever that in an already clean engine a 5000 mile fci is a complete waste and running it longer will increase the ability to trap smaller particulate.
Thanks for posting.
Yes, my sentiments exactly. I've been using Purolator filters for a while and like their price point. I've only used the "classics" on this Kia, everything else sans BMW I've used the PureOnes.
 
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
ST strikes at that heart of brand name syn lovers! Hard to argue with results like this.

How much "better" would it have been to use PU or M1EP? Would he really get 2x or 3x "better" data to offset the costs? Nope.

Facts and data are often ignored, but never lie.


Would you advocate a 7700+ mile run of ST in a Honda with VCM? Or B S's 9700 mile OCI suggestion?

M1, M1EP, PU, PP, or Edge would definitely be a better choice for some applications. The relevancy, if any, of a ~$10 "cost" over a long OCI will vary person to person.
 
Maybe try ST full synthetic. It's available in a 5W-20 and IIRC, it's $17.xx for a 5 quart jug. That coupled with a little better oil filter, maybe a Fram Xtended Guard (the one with real metal end caps, the other Frams are junk) will let you go with the 10K mile OCI.
 
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