Anything better than Wet Paint Glaze for waterless

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I have come to realization that I will never be able to master the two bucket or spotless drying on my vehicles. I have essentially given up that approach and would confine myself to true waterless method aka Wet Paint Glaze and or similar products. Even though I am satisfied with WPG, I am looking for something better than that. For example, that product could be lot cheaper but still provide non-marring cleaning ability so that I can then follow it up with claying and/or polishing and/or sealing etc. I am not opposed to multi-stage process but I am done with car washing and drying stages. I want to be able to do everything while the car is parked inside the garage.

WPG is essentially one step process and it does a remarkable job but if I want to do more, it seems to be wasteful as a starter step.
 
I have gone through dozens of this type of product and still experimenting. It seems that you are looking for something that simply cleans and adds nothing else to the surface. That leads me to the first waterless wash I ever used.....Poorboy's Spray and Wipe. Cleaning and lubricity is nothing short of excellent yet adds no waxes or shine agents to the surface.....all you get is clean. It will not remove a wax or sealant as it cleans. It is available in one and five gallon containers. You will need to call Steve or Pockets at Poorboy's for five gallon shipping costs. For just cleaning I've yet to come across anything as good as this and it works on practically everything. It makes a fantastic clay lube to boot. I recommend without reservation.

http://www.poorboysworld.com/spray-wipe.htm
 
I ran out to time to edit. In addition to the car we use it in the house for plasma screens, laptop screens, glass, mirrors, reading glasses,kitchen, and on & on. It's simply one of the few products I just won't be without. Get the gallon you won't be sorry. A good spray bottle that puts out a fine mist is necessary in a quart size.
 
What's the problem with washing and drying? I've gotten very good at the two-bucket method with a spotless dry. If you want I can list the steps I do?

I purchased Adam's Waterless Car Wash for a car show I was taking my S2000 to. It worked very well for the light dust that accumulated on the way there but I still can't get behind these products for anything more than light use. You're still rubbing dirt that could've been removed by rinsing across the finish.

The most popular, best-reviewed is Optimum No-Rinse.
 
I have no idea but I have tried my best and whenever I touch *anything* to the paint, the water beading is gone. Whether it was microfiber glove drenched in carwash soap or a microfiber drying towel. I have observed this on all my cars and using after many different products.

Besides, the waterless products can be used as one panel at a time rather than having to make hour long or so commitment with the bucket method.

It took me a while to believe that it is possible to not scratch (or marr) the paint with waterless technique with correct products. Rick has never given a wrong or bad advice :) Some of the pictures of what type of dirty car can be cleaned with WPG were simply incredible but they were real. I do have older cars to experiment with and I was very apprehensive of using it on my new car at first.
 
Rick,

Do you believe PoorBoy's Spray and Wipe have similar cleaning ability as the WPG and is it cheaper than WPG on per use basis? The last time, I had ordered couple of 32oz kits from WPG and I think I can get a gallon of Spray and Wipe for approximately the same cost. If their usage requirement is similar, then S&W would be cheaper.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
I have no idea but I have tried my best and whenever I touch *anything* to the paint, the water beading is gone. Whether it was microfiber glove drenched in carwash soap or a microfiber drying towel. I have observed this on all my cars and using after many different products.

Besides, the waterless products can be used as one panel at a time rather than having to make hour long or so commitment with the bucket method.

It took me a while to believe that it is possible to not scratch (or marr) the paint with waterless technique with correct products. Rick has never given a wrong or bad advice :) Some of the pictures of what type of dirty car can be cleaned with WPG were simply incredible but they were real. I do have older cars to experiment with and I was very apprehensive of using it on my new car at first.

Well that's not a worry! Wash water shouldn't be expected to bead because of the surfactants, etc. You want it and the suds to get all over and cling to the finish. What matters is if it beads after you're all done, and that it will!

If you have to wash with all or part of the car in the sun, fight the urge to rinse. The car wash soap will dry on the car and look bad but it will absolutely neutralize hard water and prevent water spots from forming while you finish. Once you do a final rinse it will re-dilute in the rinse water and wash away completely. The water beading should begin to come back at this point as all of the wash water/soap goes away.

For drying I use an Absorber chamois (two actually, one for the exterior and one for jambs). Hit the glass first to prevent water spots there. Then I usually take the leaf blower and blow off as much excess water as I can then go back with the Absorber and just drag it over the surface to pick up any remaining water droplets. Be sure to flush the Absorber with clean water and wring it out constantly. That should give you an absolutely spot-free dry.
 
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As far as just cleaning with no other attributes Poorboy's is superior since it is available in larger sizes and the cost per use is less.

Optimum no rinse as suggested by gofast 182 is another alternative but there is an easy way to use it. I admit I prefer Poorboy's Spray & Wipe but ONR is excellent. It does leave polymers on the surface which produces a nice shine so It depends on what you are looking for. I like Poorboy's since it is usable on so many surfaces and only cleans.

For ONR: fill a five gallon bucket with the correct ratio of ONR and water. Submerge 8-10 MF towels in the bucket. With them sopping wet wipe down one panel (like a hood or a door) then dry it with a towel specifically dedicated to drying. Proceed to the next area and repeat. Throw the used towels in another bucket to be washed. This is the best method when the car is quite dirty. Poorboy's will work in a "really dirty" scenario but you have to use a great deal more.....not so with the ONR. It really depends on the situation at hand and if you simply want it clean or have added shine. Both work extremely well and there are those that swear by one or the other. I see them as two different products intended for different situations and outcomes.

For what it's worth....when I use Poorboy's (or any waterless wash) I spray both sides of the MF towel just as I would with Wet Paint and a terrycloth towel. This minimizes any chance of marring. Choose your poison, both are excellent depending on the situation.
 
When it comes to a two bucket wash and the hard water where I live I have a different approach. With the temps and hard water where I live there is no way you can prevent water spots, you simply can't dry the surface quickly enough even with a blower. I just take a break and let the spots form. Then I go over the car with Duragloss Aquawax or Finish Kare 425. Spots are instantly gone and it shines like a new Penny. Both can be used while the car is still wet also. Since I'm an old poot I must take a break and let it dry then go over it with either product. Choose your own method. Both are effective.

There is no foolproof easy way that I'm aware of. Adapt to your situation.
 
I settled on the Garry Dean method. You can google it up on Youtube.

Basically you mix up your no-rinse stuff, put a bunch of cheap microfiber towels in there. A dozen or so. Spray the panel with concnetrated no rinse stuff, toss a drenched towel from your bucket on the panel and, wipe. As soon as it looks even a little dirty, put it in an empty bucket and get another. Never more than one panel per towel. Follow up with a wrung out towel then a dry towel. When you are finished, follow up with Duragloss Aquawax (or some such).

Takes about an hour for a truck. You can mix up your stuff beforehand, put your towels in it, put a lid on and do it in your garage at night on a weekday, or during inclement weather. That's real handy, especially if water spots are a problem.

Of course, when it gets really filthy or you are trying to strip the old wax, you have to do something else. I've gotten to the point where I'll knock off the real heavy dirt with pure water at the do it yourself place and then drive it home and do this, I like it so much.
 
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Originally Posted By: Vikas
I did mean that I notice loss of beading during the rinse phase.


I think you need to revisit your choice of paint sealant.
 
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