Originally Posted By: Vikas
I have no idea but I have tried my best and whenever I touch *anything* to the paint, the water beading is gone. Whether it was microfiber glove drenched in carwash soap or a microfiber drying towel. I have observed this on all my cars and using after many different products.
Besides, the waterless products can be used as one panel at a time rather than having to make hour long or so commitment with the bucket method.
It took me a while to believe that it is possible to not scratch (or marr) the paint with waterless technique with correct products. Rick has never given a wrong or bad advice
Some of the pictures of what type of dirty car can be cleaned with WPG were simply incredible but they were real. I do have older cars to experiment with and I was very apprehensive of using it on my new car at first.
Well that's not a worry! Wash water shouldn't be expected to bead because of the surfactants, etc. You want it and the suds to get all over and cling to the finish. What matters is if it beads after you're all done, and that it will!
If you have to wash with all or part of the car in the sun, fight the urge to rinse. The car wash soap will dry on the car and look bad but it will absolutely neutralize hard water and prevent water spots from forming while you finish. Once you do a final rinse it will re-dilute in the rinse water and wash away completely. The water beading should begin to come back at this point as all of the wash water/soap goes away.
For drying I use an Absorber chamois (two actually, one for the exterior and one for jambs). Hit the glass first to prevent water spots there. Then I usually take the leaf blower and blow off as much excess water as I can then go back with the Absorber and just drag it over the surface to pick up any remaining water droplets. Be sure to flush the Absorber with clean water and wring it out constantly. That should give you an absolutely spot-free dry.