DI Turbo oil priority? NOACK Volatility or TBN

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wemay

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What is more important for a direct injection turbo engine. I usually go with TBN voa/uoa vs NOACK volatility. Your thoughts...
 
Lower NOACK *usually* equates to slower deposit formation, but the engine's tendency to get deposits is largely dependent on the oil reclamation system. If you have a motor with known carbon problems, try and find something with a low NOACK. If your car isn't as prone (the newer Audis, for example), I would weight the TBN value a bit more.
 
NOACK by FAR. You can compensate for low TBN by changing more frequently, but there's no compensating for an oil that cooks off too quickly.

You also want the lightest and cleanest possible additive package that will still handle your engine. This is another reason why high TBN should not be a criterion for a DI turbo engine.
 
If you're doing 3500 mile intervals on your Turbo, I would put ZERO priority on TBN. Any oil will have plenty of TBN for that mileage or more. I would certainly be more interested in NOACK for your application. From the PQIA results; that would be PU, QSUD, and PP, in that order.
 
Makes total sense to me now. I had it backwards all along. This is my first DI turbo and I know the absolute cleanest oils right now are SOPUS. I guess that all those years of using M1 in Mitsubishi and Subaru applications does not necessarily translate to Hyundai DI 2.0T. Although M1 has garnered great uoa's on those vehicles, I'll be switching to one of the SOPUS offerings.
 
Originally Posted By: dparm
Lower NOACK *usually* equates to slower deposit formation, but the engine's tendency to get deposits is largely dependent on the oil reclamation system. If you have a motor with known carbon problems, try and find something with a low NOACK. If your car isn't as prone (the newer Audis, for example), I would weight the TBN value a bit more.


You've hit the nail on the head. NOACK may help, but I doubt it's enough to notice. I ran a catch can on my VW TDI and there was virtually no difference in the amount of oil in the catch can after 7500 miles between a high Grp III oil and a low NOACK Grp IV or V oil. Use the cheapest low NOACK oil you can find, and change it early due to the fuel dilution. IF you are really worried run a catch can.
 
Originally Posted By: wemay
This is my first DI turbo and I know the absolute cleanest oils right now are SOPUS.


Only Ultra has low Noack. Not only is low volatility important, but so is low ash. Thats why I'd go with M1 ESP.....It's got low, low Noack and ash.
 
...or Mobil1 ESP :). I guess at 3500, a few boutique syns would be fine.
 
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After having my questions discussed on other threads about the GDI-T 2.0 and thoroughly reading thru this one, i will be using any of these @ 3500 OCI and call it a day:

M1 5w30
QSUD 5w30
PP 5w30
Val Synpwr 5w30
Castrol Edge or Titaium 5w30
Maybe even
Pennzoil Syn Blend 5w30 (50% syn)

87 octane, Shell/Mobil/Chevron/BPì

ThE iNsaNity oF it ALL!
 
Originally Posted By: wemay
After having my questions discussed on other threads about the GDI-T 2.0 and thoroughly reading thru this one, i will be using any of these @ 3500 OCI and call it a day:

M1 5w30
QSUD 5w30
PP 5w30
Val Synpwr 5w30
Castrol Edge or Titaium 5w30
Maybe even
Pennzoil Syn Blend 5w30 (50% syn)

ThE iNsaNity oF it ALL!


The insanity of it all, is you asked for advice and then totally disregarded it. None of the oils listed above have a low NOACK or low ash!!

Or are you one of those guys who wants to know, but too cheap to spend the few bucks to address the issue? Having the info, but choosing to not act upon it, would drive me insane. It's one thing to make a mistake because you didn't know better, it's quite another to do it knowing what you've been told.

You'd be better off buying Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 or 5w40 than any of those oils listed above.
 
As I said, I read various opinions, not just those on this thread. None of the oils I mention is "cheap", those would be Supertech, Proline etc. All of these, as is the consensus of various threads on the topic, suffice at 3500 mile oci and as is also the consensus of various opinions, the difference between a Noack level of 8.8 (QSUD which IS low) and M1 at 10.1 is negligible at this OCI. Those that may not have low NOACK do have low ash (maybe not by your standards), also considered by many to be very important. Dont get fussy, we're all in this together. The 'insanity' comment was made because there are many points being made on all sides that sound valid, including yours. BTW, M1 ESP was meant to be the M1 variant listed. Especially for $26.97 @ Walmart.
 
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Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Cleaned up link
Deposit control is important too.
Page 7.

I agree it's low turbo deposits that you're interested in and the TEOST 33 test sited in the captioned Amsoil test doesn't really reflect that; more about piston deposits which is not the same thing.
A low NOACK spec' while nice is not a direct correlation for low turbo deposits. Also what gets picked up in a catch can has little do do with NOACK (vaporized oil), but rather atomized oil, which is not the same thing.

So the only meaningful test I know of that applies to keeping the turbo bearings clean is the Honda HT0-06.
So any oil that passes that test is what I'd consider first and choose from that list.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Cleaned up link
Deposit control is important too.
Page 7.

I agree it's low turbo deposits that you're interested in and the TEOST 33 test sited in the captioned Amsoil test doesn't really reflect that; more about piston deposits which is not the same thing.
A low NOACK spec' while nice is not a direct correlation for low turbo deposits. Also what gets picked up in a catch can has little do do with NOACK (vaporized oil), but rather atomized oil, which is not the same thing.

So the only meaningful test I know of that applies to keeping the turbo bearings clean is the Honda HT0-06.
So any oil that passes that test is what I'd consider first and choose from that list.



The reason for my top three choices and running M1 at present. (I left that out of the previous post in error
smile.gif
)
 
Ive been overthinking this whole thing...
My next oc will be PYB 5w30. It actually surpasses Hyundai specs and i'm beginning to think that no better spec is needed between Hyundai's recommended 3-5k mile oci for the vehicle. They recommend good old QS dino. Good enough for specs, good enough for me.
 
Changed mine today and actually went with my old favorite:

Valvoline 5w30 conventional
Valvoline VO106 oil filter
3k mile oci
 
In the end, only a UOA will dictate the condition and if a change needs to be made to semi-syn/syn
 
Originally Posted By: Sunnyinhollister
Originally Posted By: dparm
Lower NOACK *usually* equates to slower deposit formation, but the engine's tendency to get deposits is largely dependent on the oil reclamation system. If you have a motor with known carbon problems, try and find something with a low NOACK. If your car isn't as prone (the newer Audis, for example), I would weight the TBN value a bit more.


You've hit the nail on the head. NOACK may help, but I doubt it's enough to notice. I ran a catch can on my VW TDI and there was virtually no difference in the amount of oil in the catch can after 7500 miles between a high Grp III oil and a low NOACK Grp IV or V oil. Use the cheapest low NOACK oil you can find, and change it early due to the fuel dilution. IF you are really worried run a catch can.


It has been proven though that Oil Catch cans do nothing to help in reducing intake valve deposits.

LOW SAPS, LOW NOACK is your best bet. Just need to do a UOA at 3k miles to see how the engine likes it.

Jeff
 
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