98 V70 Suspension Q

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I noticed something quite odd the other day when looking at the sled from the rear, about 50' away: In the rear, she's listing to port! (drivers side). At first I thought it might be because my driveway slopes in the same direction. So I took a 4' level, laid it on the concrete, noted the reading, then moved it to the rear bumper, then overhead to the roof rack rails. Sure enough!

I crawled under for an inspection and saw no leaking shock oil. Doesn't mean the shock isn't faulty though. From what I understand, shocks don't hold up a car. Springs do. So do I have a sagging spring? Or am I wrong about the role of shocks?

A quick, crude rear bounce test reveals that both rear sides aren't even in their rebound rates, and that the rear bounces longer than the front. I have noticed she wags her tail a bit over expansion joints over bridges at 65mph, another key to uneven damping.

Sounds like its time for new rear shocks at the least. Do springs tend to sag over time due to being constantly loaded?
 
Springs sag, sometimes, they break. You could have lost a coil off one of the rears...

Further, does this have Nivomats (self-leveling suspension)? Could be a blown Nivomat with the age/miles...

Either way, time to get it up on the lift and take a closer look...
 
I didn't see anything to lead me to believe that a spring had broken. No Nivomats here. Not sure how long it's been like this either. I would include a photo, but will have to find a more level surface first.

So this is due to a spring/suspension problem, not a faulty shock, correct?
 
While it hasn't happened to me, lots of Volvo owners report broken coils. Not broken in the middle, just the last half turn or so, usually due to rust in the rust belt, but your sled has the miles to be suffering from worn parts as well as sagged springs.

I would look at FCP Euro for a rebuild kit, control arms, ball joints, strut mounts, struts, shocks. I did the XC this year, and the T5 last year. Huge difference in both cars after freshening up the whole suspension.

On my 1994 850 wagon, Bilsteins and new parts made a huge difference.

When you've got it apart, you'll be able to check coil length between the 2 sides and see if one has sagged out. I would only replace in axle pairs, never just one, and you might find that a set is cheaper than 2 springs...
 
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OK, thanks. No rust here in Tx. I'll check with my mechanic and have a closer look at the springs + take some measurements.
 
Found this on the UK Volvo club site:
Quote:
How does a shop diagnose worn shock absorbers? ....

First, use a tape measure to check the distance from the floor to a common reference point on the body such as the upper lip of the fender well. If a difference in ride height is indicated, the shock absorber may have lost its gas charge, or the vehicle may have a sagging spring. When disconnected from the chassis, a shock absorber with a full gas charge will quickly extend the piston rod. In other failure scenarios, a shock absorber may stick up or down due to a broken piston assembly. Next, check for oil leakage around the shaft seal. If the oil leakage looks wet, or covers the length of the shock absorber body, the shocks should be replaced either in axle pairs or at all four wheels.

Rebound recovery tests, unfortunately, are a far more subjective type of shock absorber evaluation. During a rebound test, the suspension is cycled by placing the knee or hands on the front or rear bumper of the vehicle, bouncing the suspension and then observing the recovery rate. In theory, good shock absorbers should dampen spring bounce within one oscillation cycle. In reality, a technician should be very familiar with the suspension characteristics of the nameplate in question. Some auto manufacturers design soft suspensions; others design firm suspensions, depending upon model application.

If a chucking or knocking noise is detected during the rebound recovery test, at least one shock absorber may have a loose piston, a worn piston shaft bushing or worn mounting bushings. When the shock's rebound bumpers are worn or the tires show a mild cupping in the center of the tread , shock absorber fade may be occurring when the shock absorber fluid becomes overheated and loses viscosity during a long trip. When road testing, the most accurate observations are achieved by driving the vehicle over the same stretch of road. Worn shock absorbers will cause the vehicle to nose-dive during braking or roll during cornering maneuvers. Again, the feel of worn shock absorbers tends to be a subjective judgment that requires familiarity with the specific vehicle nameplate and application.

How Shock Absorbers Fail. How do shock absorbers fail? In most cases, the piston shaft seal fails and allows the fluid to leak out of the shock's oil reservoir. On high-mileage vehicles, the internal parts such as the piston seal or valving wear out, which alters the dampening characteristics of the shock absorber. Last, the nitrogen charge may leak from the shock absorber, which slightly lowers the suspension height and allows the fluid to foam during normal operating conditions. All of the above failures will, at some point in the shock absorber's service life, cause the shock absorber fluid to become overheated or foam during severe operating conditions or extended trips. Last, the piston itself can become disconnected from the shock absorber shaft. The shaft may then bend, which causes the shock absorber to bind at some point in its travel. Because some pistons are held onto the shaft by a threaded nut, tightening the piston shaft bushings or spinning the piston shaft with an impact tool may loosen the piston-retaining nut. The best alternative is to buy the appropriate tools needed to hold the piston shaft stationary while the retaining nut is being tightened.


The sled probably has gas-charged shocks and when the gas escapes, the shock no longer pushes up on the suspension, therefore that corner sags.

In my 33 years of owning a car, this is the first time I've ever encountered a shock failure. C'est la vie...
 
Replaced rear shocks on my daughter's 99 S70 not long ago. Very easy. Don't know if it's different on the wagon. Improved ride and handling considerably.
 
Yep...obviously it's time. Did you go OEM or aftermarket? I'm leaning towards OEM Sachs. Bilstein Touring is another choice. I think Astro14 used those. I've read the HD's are too stiff. Koni's and others are too $$$ for the sled at this point in her life. Obviously, I'll soon be replacing the front struts as well.
 
Went with OEM Sachs and new shock mounts as well. Autohauz had a low cost of $60/ea + free shipping! Compare that to a local outfit that can pick the same part out of a local WorldPac warehouse....$79ea. From what I understand, Autohauz ships from local WP warehouses, maybe my order will go out of WP-Austin? As usual, it pays to shop around.
 
UPS delivered my shock order from Autohaus this afternoon. The Sachs 'Super Touring' indicate on the sticker they are made in Germany. Didn't realize I could compress a shock by hand, with only minimal force. Surprising...

With no rust here in Tx, I don't expect the complications others have to deal with up North. Replacement looks rather straightforward.

Looking forward to see how she drives afterward.
 
Well that didn't take long. About 1.5hrs. No rust, busted nuts, or stripped threads. Everything came apart using a standard 3/8" ratchet.

The old shocks were indeed Tango Uniform. The drivers piston was loose, a bit noisy when compressing and wouldn't re-expand at all. The passengers was in better shape..at least it would re-expand but only about 50% of the new ones.

I haven't gone for a test drive yet. I'm indoors, in the A/C, cooling (& drying) off. Currently it's 80°F, 100% Rh outdoors.
 
Went for a hwy drive last night, about 60mi round trip. As such, the roads were very smooth. I have yet to travel over rough roads, railway crossings, or twistys, so a more complete evaluation will have to wait. However, the rear is now stiffer which is noticeable as are greatly reduced front-to-back and transverse rolling. The front is still on the original struts, but when the car rolls front-to-back, the new rear shocks absorb this instead of sending it back to the front. Road noise from the rear is also reduced.

Definitely worth the effort and the cost was low. The free shipping helped even more. I have noticed the front 'crashing' on large bumps, uneven RR tracks, etc. so they are probably tired as well. Removing them is straight-forward as well with the complication of dealing with the springs and removing the wheels.

I'm very pleased with the results and more than a bit surprised that the ride wasn't worse given the condition of the rear shocks upon removal.
 
Since my last post, I've traveled over some rough, twisties on my usual rounds and the car is noticeably quieter over rough pavement, handles much better, and no longer wags-her-tail. Geesh...I should have replaced them sooner!!

Well that means the two front struts are next.....
 
Originally Posted By: sleddriver
Since my last post, I've traveled over some rough, twisties on my usual rounds and the car is noticeably quieter over rough pavement, handles much better, and no longer wags-her-tail. Geesh...I should have replaced them sooner!!

Well that means the two front struts are next.....

Get quick struts or equivalent if possible, and if it isn't possible, get the upper mounting kit and bearings. The last time I replaced front struts on an FWD Volvo, The upper plate and mount fell apart, and dozens of ball bearings went everywhere.
 
The upper strut mounts and bearings have already been replaced a few years back. I knew they were Toes Up when I could easily turn them by hand...not to mention the terrible racket over rough roads. They live a hard life on a FWD Volvo.
 
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