Thinking rod knock, flex plate and/or TC, you say

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: yonyon
I assume it is registered in NJ and is not nitocably dripping anything while sitting still idling.

Beyond that it must appear to have a catalytic converter properly installed. It must not have excessive exhaust leaks preventing the inspector getting a proper sample of exhaust from the tailpipe. It must not be visibly smoking. It must not appear to be unsafe to drive up to the machine and test. It must pass a tailpipe test (hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide only) at idle and at 2500 RPM with no load. Your gas cap must pass a test.

The noise might get your rejected depending on who is doing the inspection. If you pay for a private shop to do it you'll probably get someone who knows that isn't anything dangerous. If you go to Parson's it's probably a 50/50 shot. As far as the tailpipe test goes... the standards aren't that tough. If the Blazer will fail the tailpipe test you probably have some pretty foul smelling exhaust and already know to expect it.


I like the private inspection idea. Where is "Parsons?"
No smokes, no drips, no foul smell exhaust (from this engine.)

Runs solid. is just that [censored] noise.

I just realized.. I'm legal in reg/ins/lic, so, it's not something that is a bad idea to drive...... yes?

Still looking for the bolt, too. I need to get it somewhere with more clearance ot properly look.

Is amazing the head hasnt snapped off that bolt by now.

But STATE inspection = FAIL, right? (Like, at inspection station)
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs

But STATE inspection = FAIL, right? (Like, at inspection station)
Only if they noise scares the inspector or if he/she is in a bad mood. Protip: turn the radio off before you get there and leave the cell phone in your pocket.
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs

I like the private inspection idea. Where is "Parsons?"
That is the regular inspection station. There are still a few (I think four) that are actually run by the state but most of them have been operated by an outside company known as Parson's for many years.
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs


Still looking for the bolt, too. I need to get it somewhere with more clearance ot properly look.
It might not be a bolt. It could be that shiny spot you saw. Mark the shiny spot with a crayon or Sharpie or something and see if it gets wiped off the first time you start the engine
 
I really don't know. I'm not much about North Jersey. Really, there shouldn't matter much if it's a for-real state run station or a Parson's run state inspection station for your vehicle. If you want to go with a private facility this search page will at least let you know your local options.
 
Gotta find good inspection spot in or around Jersey City, NJ. Or fix the Volvo.

Going to get a crayon to see if shiny spot is hitting, I know a place to go to get TC changed cheaper if it is that..
 
I called a junker, one with a good ad. $375 takes it, free tow (probably ate into the price, lol.)

Bye-bye Volvo.

The PA parts place would have been fine but it was too far for them.
 
Yup... If I changed my mind, all I had to do was not take that call.

But now, from between 12PM to 3PM, I am gonna have $375. And I still got my Blazer.

yay.
frown.gif
 
Smart move to sell the Volvo

Focus on one car, spend only what you need to make it safe, reliable and roadworthy (inspection, insurance,registration, etc).
 
He might have actually made money on that car, if he truly bought it for nothing, and got $375 for junking it, without spending anything on it as of yet.

Smartest thing he's done on the forum so far.

BC.
 
Originally Posted By: Bladecutter
He might have actually made money on that car, if he truly bought it for nothing, and got $375 for junking it, without spending anything on it as of yet.

Smartest thing he's done on the forum so far.

BC.


Yessir!
10.gif


The reminder that I did in fact get the car for free lead me to accept what i was told was a decent junk offer on the car.


I can even go back to Bartram's and get my tools and suitcase.. from Volvo. They towed, and met me at train station... About $100+ of nice ratchet, and all my sockets, flashlights, wrenches; also my RHINO RAMPS etc..
 
Now, back on the Blazer:

Has anyone ever tried the "pour a container of non-MTBE paint thinner in the car gas to clean out the catalytic converter?"
 
Originally Posted By: cmorr
Did you see the vehicle it was pulled out of. generally good bodywork indicates scraped for powertrain and vice versa

Did your mechanic test or inspect the engine prior to the install (at least turn it over by hand, pull the oil pan)


972236_534329116633639_989457452_n.jpg
 
Why do you feel the converter needs cleaned out?

I don't think I've ever come across someone so willing to pour junk into their oil and gas before....you said it was running and shifting smoothly. Leave it alone and concentrate on finding/resolving the noise.
 
Originally Posted By: Fleetmon
Why do you feel the converter needs cleaned out?

I don't think I've ever come across someone so willing to pour junk into their oil and gas before....you said it was running and shifting smoothly. Leave it alone and concentrate on finding/resolving the noise.


I agree.
 
Originally Posted By: Fleetmon
Why do you feel the converter needs cleaned out?

I don't think I've ever come across someone so willing to pour junk into their oil and gas before....you said it was running and shifting smoothly. Leave it alone and concentrate on finding/resolving the noise.


I am going to make a mark in crayon on the converter to see if it is touching at any point it would wipe the crayon off like yonyon said. (Shiny spot on TC)
 
Last edited:
Quote:

32.gif
I noticed the indicator in neutral. Had a work s10 back in the day that did that. Better yet, you could start it in drive as the interlock was mechanical. I used to do a "dukes of hazzard" thing where I turned the key then when it caught I'd mash the pedal, without waiting for it to go into gear.


It also showed MPH when revving it in P / N... Not too many but more than 0...

Going to go try the downshift thing, as best I can.

Now THIS is ROD KNOCK. And check out the 2MPH at start of video...

(*this engine is no longer in truck.)
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Next time, haul the auto trans into manual low gear with your foot off the gas so we can hear it decellerate.


Gonna go try.

Quote:

32.gif
I noticed the indicator in neutral. Had a work s10 back in the day that did that. Better yet, you could start it in drive as the interlock was mechanical. I used to do a "dukes of hazzard" thing where I turned the key then when it caught I'd mash the pedal, without waiting for it to go into gear.

I had a saturn with rod knock that sounded a little different. Hard saying, not knowing, but the mic auto-level makes it hard to guess how loud.


Posted a video of previous, removed engine.
 
Are the torque converter bolts tight? If they were all loose you would have the torque converter and flexplate moving around in relation to each other. One loose bolt would be hitting a freeze plug boss or the pan rail.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top