Will this work as a bypass system with the amsoil filters?? It's a lot cheaper.quote:
Originally posted by OneQuartLow:
Sprintman, I'm installing a dual filter mount before arx goes in. $49 from summit:
Two 40017 PureONE's (~14GPM flow) should stay out of bypass a while.
David
Purolator PurOne Myth..
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I believe you will find when you open that box it will require the use of a Ford FL1A or Fram PH8A or equivalent filters. What motor are you putting this on? You might not have enough oil pump to get the job done is why I ask.quote:
Originally posted by OneQuartLow:
Sprintman, I'm installing a dual filter mount before arx goes in. $49 from summit:
Two 40017 PureONE's (~14GPM flow) should stay out of bypass a while.
David
I don't know what these filters fit?-Two 40017 PureONE's
[ December 30, 2002, 03:09 PM: Message edited by: dragboat ]
Yes, it does make a difference what engine this will be for. For example my SHO oil pump is rated at 12.1 gpm at 6400; if I'm in a hurry (not all the time) my shift point is 7200. So a substantial amount of oil is bypassed, not even seeing the filter. I would love to put a bypass filter system in; Amsoil's system, while expensive, is nice.
Mike
Mike
The 40017 is the 2qt version of the 30001. You can bet I prime them thoroughly before install.
It's a Jeep 4.0L I6. Tractor motor. 160Kmiles but a fresh oil pump. Seeing the pan is what prompted this arx cleaning. ($50 for a basic pump on these things, and it isn't even gold plated.)
You may be right about the mount. It isn't here yet. The spin-on adapter is 3/4-16 but I haven't used this dual-remote before. I'd forgotten many use those basic filters. Wait, isn't the FL1A 3/4-16? I'm pretty sure I used those on old cars.
David
Let's buy Patman some lottery tickets...no wait....let's buy these tickets for ourselves, give Patman the money for testing when we win and keep the rest LOL
quote:
Originally posted by Patman:
I agree that I'm guilty of PureONE bashing myself, I always tell my high performance car owning friends to stay away from these filters and go for the K&Ns since I just don't feel comfortable recommending PureONEs to someone pushing 400hp with their engines.
I'd love to be able to afford to send off a bunch of filters to SWRI for extensive flow testing and filtering efficiency, but I've also heard one filter test costs $500 to $750, so it's not cost effective by any means. If I win the lottery ever though, I'll be sending every single filter I can get my hands on to those guys to check them out!
Just a curious question... How come he wouldn't have enough oil pump? If anything putting 2 larger filters in parallel should reduce restriction if anything. So wouldn't that put less load on the pump/more flow... ?
quote:
Originally posted by dragboat:
Originally posted by OneQuartLow:
[qb]I worry about the extra hoses and extra hardware. The system is gonna be less reliable (Hoses and fittings fail all the time) Also that hose will offer resistance which will restrict flow maybe more than having just one filter. Also there will be a longer period of time during an oil change where the engine may get no oil.
Since engines have gotten hundreds of thousands of miles on synthetic and other good oils and normal filters. Whats the point? How many engines really die due to oil related failures anyway?
As and engineer I apreciate the concept, but also as an engineer and maintenance supervisor for over 30 years- I say replace your Mobil 1 or K&N filter every 3 or 4 K miles for safe reliable and yet overkill. IMHO. As usual I could be all wet
Al, appreciate your input and absolutely agree with your points. I come from engineering as well and have considered them within reason. I'm going with AN fittings and 600PSI hose (better than supplied). It's at least the quality of Amsoil's dual bypass system. I'd worried about the prime delay too so am mounting everything below adapter level to prevent drainback.
Remember, I'm doing this primarily for the 160K cleaning. My goal is to prevent added wear from abrasives clogging filters and making more than one trip through the pump. If I've missed something and the whole thing cuts loose at least I'll be a data point for others here. It'll also be my excuse for a stroker rebuild.
David
Remember, I'm doing this primarily for the 160K cleaning. My goal is to prevent added wear from abrasives clogging filters and making more than one trip through the pump. If I've missed something and the whole thing cuts loose at least I'll be a data point for others here. It'll also be my excuse for a stroker rebuild.
David
Good sho OneQuart. Like I said I like the idea. Looks like you eliminated the things that worried me. You've thought things through. Did you try to make the hoses as short as possible? Remember also that those hoses will be exposed to the cold so in real cold weather there could be extra resistance. Are the hoses bigger in diameter or are they large enough? Remember, I'm not trying to argue against-just trying to help. I'll be interested in the final result. Hopefully you will be able to provide good details, information and pictures.
.
The Taurus SHO motors routinely flow 7 gallons a minute. They rely on a low pressure high volume oil pumps because of the high rpm these engines are expected to see (7000 rpm). My '97 SHO has a 7 quart oil capacity with the large size K&N HP-3001 filter.
The Permacool remote adapters from Summit do use the Ford FL1A type filters. I've got two of them on different vehicles...
According to the Oil filter study the FL-1A filter is a PurOne cartridge in a Ford spec housing a little different from the PurOne housing. I believe this to be an excellent filter.....and it's only $2.67 at WalMart....the oilfilter study mentiones that this is a PurOne equivalent filter for half the price...
They're standard 3/4-16 thread adapters, like Permacool's. I believe gasket size for 3/4-16 is always 2 5/8", and the sealing surface is a full 1/2" wide; choice of filters is wide open.
The hose set turned out to be nice. Push lock brass swivels on 1/2" 200PSI WP hose. Only problem is the push-lock ends drop to .390 ID at the smallest point. There are 4 of them so I'm moving up to 5/8 which maintains the 1/2" ID minimum of my stock setup. If nothing else it buys me another 6oz oil capacity.
There's always one more thing to order...
The hose set turned out to be nice. Push lock brass swivels on 1/2" 200PSI WP hose. Only problem is the push-lock ends drop to .390 ID at the smallest point. There are 4 of them so I'm moving up to 5/8 which maintains the 1/2" ID minimum of my stock setup. If nothing else it buys me another 6oz oil capacity.
There's always one more thing to order...
Another thing you might look at is the Aeroquip "Socketless" hose and fittings. It uses just barbs with no clamps and the hose is fabric outer braid instead of stainless like the AN hose. The cost is also lower.
http://www.aeroquip.com/pages/prodinfo.html
I think would have gone that way had I been familiar with it. I talked to one guy who has plumbed a couple of sprint cars with it and he liked it a lot...
[ January 06, 2003, 09:26 PM: Message edited by: jsharp ]
I used -8 An fittings on my last install, the hose and fittings that came with the single Permacool adapter on the previous one. Those provioded fittings were just barbs with hose clamps and some generic oil hose. Not too good I didn't think...quote:
Originally posted by OneQuartLow:
They're standard 3/4-16 thread adapters, like Permacool's. I believe gasket size for 3/4-16 is always 2 5/8", and the sealing surface is a full 1/2" wide; choice of filters is wide open.
The hose set turned out to be nice. Push lock brass swivels on 1/2" 200PSI WP hose. Only problem is the push-lock ends drop to .390 ID at the smallest point. There are 4 of them so I'm moving up to 5/8 which maintains the 1/2" ID minimum of my stock setup. If nothing else it buys me another 6oz oil capacity.
There's always one more thing to order...
[ January 06, 2003, 12:14 PM: Message edited by: jsharp ]
I've been using the FL1A filters for quite along time but the last one I got leaked at the sealing flange. There was some discussion I saw somewhere that said that Motorcraft's supplier may have changed the filter and it's no longer a Pure-1 type element. I used a real Pure-1 the last time I changed...
Agreed. My previous permacool experience is why I tried this version. Not that pc is bad, but I hoped for a more robust installation without hose clamps. The TD hoses are nice but I don't like the >20% diameter restrictions. So, -12 if I can find a good source, else -10 earls.
Thanks for the pointer. I'll check them out. So far, barb solutions I've seen end up costing 80% of Earl's for a complete setup. They also tend to have smaller ID's so I have to upsize. The install would certainly be simpler though.
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