Seizing caliper?

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Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: GSCJR
Substantial amount of info and photos here.

http://www.agscompany.com/lubricants/canadian/205

Well, my fairly extensive Rust Belt experience is that Sil-Glyde is decently good for rubber parts, but terrible for metal parts.

Perhaps it's a characteristic of silicones in general, but Sil-Glyde also has a tendency to be absorbed by rubber parts over time, and those rubber parts will swell from the absorption. Sil-Glyde doesn't actually have very much silicone in it for its volume, so maybe it's the fillers that cause the swelling.

For the ingredients of Sil-Glyde and dielectric grease, see this link:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2991606
Scroll down to message number 2991606.


I am familiar with Molykote m-77, I used it when working for an Acura dealer, it still requires regular applications for it to b effective. I have used Syl-Glyde more often and it also requires regular applications, I just find Syl-glyde easier to obtain. I always seem to have a tube of it around.
 
Originally Posted By: GSCJR
I am familiar with Molykote m-77, I used it when working for an Acura dealer, it still requires regular applications for it to b effective.

Well, so does anything else. BUT... a BIG BUT...

M-77 is the ONLY stuff I've EVER used that has lasted through an ENTIRE North-Eastern winter such that the brake pads fall off when the caliper is removed in the spring. NO other substance has worked nearly as well. Nothing. NOTHING. NOTHING. Not even Impac 1000, which was a pretty good grease that you used to be able to buy in the '80s, before the company went belly-up.

Honda Canada deserves some kind of medal for developing their M-77 brake-maintenance procedure. M-77 is available from any Honda/Acura dealer.
 
If anybody wants a PDF copy of the Honda Canada TSB outlining the use of M-77 for brake servicing, just PM me.

The stuff is absolutely amazing. I exaggerate not one tiny bit.
 
Some people use anti-seize on the face of the piston where it meets the shim to stop the pads from sticking and/or making noise. Has anyone here tried that? Anti-size certainly has the temperature rating for it. Personally, I usually use nothing on the backs of the pads. I find that Brake quiet gel usually causes a poor pedal feel and syl-glide doesnt seem do anything or lubricates the contact areas so much that they make extra noise.
 
I'd be shocked if BMW doesn't require brake fluid flushes, if not do it.


I'm also surprised it has sliding calipers, that's kind of cheap M...
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: hattaresguy
I'd be shocked if BMW doesn't require brake fluid flushes, if not do it.


I'm also surprised it has sliding calipers, that's kind of cheap M...



LOL!!! Well, they work well so I'm not complaining
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: hattaresguy

I'm also surprised it has sliding calipers, that's kind of cheap M...


Cheap isn't always a bad thing. It's possible those crazy German engineers may have decided it would be better to waste a few grams of unsprung mass to save money, but maybe they also wanted to keep things simple and increase the length of time the calipers work as designed without service. Were they able to apply the cost savings to better materials lsewhere and make up for any performance hit to get the reliability effectively for free?
 
Originally Posted By: yonyon
Originally Posted By: hattaresguy

I'm also surprised it has sliding calipers, that's kind of cheap M...


Cheap isn't always a bad thing. It's possible those crazy German engineers may have decided it would be better to waste a few grams of unsprung mass to save money, but maybe they also wanted to keep things simple and increase the length of time the calipers work as designed without service. Were they able to apply the cost savings to better materials lsewhere and make up for any performance hit to get the reliability effectively for free?



Yeah, they used their fancy multi piston caliper budget for those 8 throttle bodies!!!
 
I'm liberal with grease on brake parts. Syl Glyde is pricy. I just use it for assembly I had a jar of brake grease that I slathered on the new brake parts I put on the Rat. I use chassis grease on the hubs and lugs to ensure being able to change the tires.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Pricey Syl Glyde? Ask Tegger on the price of Molykote M77!

My 2.6oz jar was $75. That jar measures 2" in diameter and is 2" tall.
moly_m77.jpg


Honda Canada's TSB says they now have some really good pricing from their supplier, so the current prices are probably lower than what I paid.

Sil-Glyde is very cheap by comparison to M-77; but Raybestos does make a competing silicone-based brake grease that is close to M-77 in price.
 
Originally Posted By: GSCJR
Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: GSCJR
Substantial amount of info and photos here.

http://www.agscompany.com/lubricants/canadian/205

Well, my fairly extensive Rust Belt experience is that Sil-Glyde is decently good for rubber parts, but terrible for metal parts.

Perhaps it's a characteristic of silicones in general, but Sil-Glyde also has a tendency to be absorbed by rubber parts over time, and those rubber parts will swell from the absorption. Sil-Glyde doesn't actually have very much silicone in it for its volume, so maybe it's the fillers that cause the swelling.

For the ingredients of Sil-Glyde and dielectric grease, see this link:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2991606
Scroll down to message number 2991606.


I have used Syl-Glyde more often and it also requires regular applications


Maybe, you missed this in my previous post. Not disputing your claims Tegger.
 
If the problem comes back, I'm in the "replace hose" camp. The car doesn't have to have big miles or be 20 years old.

Just fixed a 2002 F150 with similar symptoms. (After new pads/rotor/caliper/bleeding didn't fix)
 
I fixed the problem (it came back but I found out what it was).

It ended up being scale on the top of the rotor above the fins. It was ever so slightly touching the caliper. As soon as I touched the brake and the caliper shifted, it stopped touching and subsequently stopped making the noise.

I've now however completely disassembled and lubricated both front calipers/pads/pins as well as the left rear (chasing the noise on the left side) and re-adjusted my parking brake.

If I get off work early again later this week I'll do the right rear wheel and adjust the parking brake on it too. They were WAY off. The shoes are in GREAT shape, lots of life left, but somebody had adjusted them all the way down to the stop....
crazy2.gif


With the calipers cleaned/lubed, the wheels spin freely. So the calipers are OK
thumbsup2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: outdoorsman310
did you make sure somebody didnt put the self adjusters in backwards!!


Nope, I didn't. However, the parking brake has been funky (requiring a full pull and barely engaging at that) since they had the rear brakes apart when I first went noise searching and had the place that did the tie-rod/alignment for me check it out. I'm thinking the guy working on it just adjusted it to minimum and never set it. As far as I know, he never had the shoes or adjusters off the car.

Just reinforces doing it myself I guess, LOL
 
Originally Posted By: outdoorsman310
if you drive in reverse and slam on the brakes alot that should tighten them up a bit


The parking brake is separate from the rear brakes. The rear brakes are disc. There is an integrated drum in the disc that is the parking brake.
 
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