boat steering cable play clevis pin mercruiser

[1 FMF]

have about 20° of steering wheel slop and it's caused by the 3/8" clevis pin that connects the steering cable end in the top picture to the steering lever part #14 in the bottom picture. looking for thoughts on how to fix it and get rid of the slop. I've checked the steering lever in the transom and that's solid. And the teleflex rack & pinion steering at the helm and cable are all in perfect condition, there is no play in the rack. it's all at the clevis pin where the cable connects to the steering lever.
drill it out and use a 7/16" pin ?
are throw a bushing or shim around the existing setup?
i measured the clevis pin and looking at it doesn't seem to be worn, it's around 0.370", so i'm not sure if a new pin would fix it. and couldn't measure the holes in the steering cable or lever easily.

 

[1 FMF]

also whatever i drive through the steering lever part #14 doesn't have to rotate, the pin going through the lever could be an interference fit and be solid in that part. it's only the steering cable end that will need to rotate around the clevis pin as it moves the lever. and the steering cable end is stainless steel. i'm not sure of the steering lever if it's steel or aluminum.

 

[Donald]

Note sure what Mercruiser you have, but on an Alpha One there is a square shaft that fits in a square hole that handles the steering (gimbal ring and steering arm). The gimbal ring and steering arm wear until they are partially round. There is an adjustment for it with two little bolts that need to be torqued properly.

Typically if you can move the outdrive side to side a bit and the steering wheel does not move, thats the problem. There are one or two places that will take your old parts, weld in new material and punch new square holes.

http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?82578-Gimbal-Ring-to-Steering-Arm-Slop

 

[1 FMF]

i understand what you are referring to and that is the classic problem. that's not it here. my problem is the steering cable coming from the steering wheel connecting to the steering lever inside the boat. what you were talking about is the other side of the steering lever inside the transom that connects to the gimbal ring. i posted 2 pics, i can only see one of them now being at work. i'm guessing you can't see them?

 

[Donald]

So if you hold the steering lever and pin and move the steering cable, does the pin move a little in the steering lever or does the steering cable move a little on the pin?

Or is the eye held by the pin not crimped properly on the steering cable?

Is there room for a washer of the right size above or below the eye that connect to the pin. JB Weld the washer on? Weld the washer on?

Can you buy a replacement end to the steering cable.

One thing I read about the sloppy steering due to gimbal ring is that the two adjustment bolts are grade 3 and snap and should be replaced by grade 5 or 8.

 

[1 FMF]

the end of the steering cable cannot be replaced, unless i replace the whole cable. it's a solid stainless steel rod with a 3/8 hole at the end.
if i put the pin in just the steering cable it feels like there's very little play, and if i put the pin in the steering lever without the cable that feels like it's fairly tight. but when everything is assembled it has slop.

 

[doitmyself]

How much time, trouble and money are you looking to invest?

A ball joint rod end would be ideal to eliminate ALL slop: http://www.mcmaster.com/#ball-joint-rod-ends/=oc891g With a little ingenuity, you might be able to combine a ball joint rod end with a joint linkage and avoid any machining work., if you can account for the length difference. Otherwise, cut the rod end off and thread it.

Other options? You really haven't described how much slop you have between the clevis pin and steering cable/rod hole. Here's some ideas:

- drill out to next size(s), as you suggest above. Do you have a drill press?
- bushings? Maybe, Check Mcmaster Carr bronze sleeve bearings (slippery). http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-sleeve-bearings/=oc84l2
- try a metric clevis pin (difficult to get) or better, a metric bolt with sufficient unthreaded portion that "might" be slightly bigger/tighter.
- you can eliminate the pin to steering lever (14)play by peening the lever holes to disform the metal and grab the pin. Don't crack the ears off!
- Then, you need to make the cable/rod hole smaller. It could be peened also, but this will probably wear quickly. The only other diy cobble way I can come up with is put a small layer of good epoxy in the hole and work it down with a drill bit, sand paper, etc..

Good luck!