Purolator PureOne vs. Motorcraft FL-820S

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I know this was done a while back (couple of years) at
http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corvette/articles/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html
I just could not take it at face value, so I had to cut apart one of each of these filters and see for myself. Since these filters are specific to my vehicle, it left me without any doubts. Here is what I found:

1. Both filter media appear to be the same as far as color, smell, appearance, construction, but the Motorcraft filter element is slightly longer while the PureOne has a few more pleats.

2. Both backplates appear to be identical in every respect, while the silicone drainback valves are identcal except for a slight difference in color.

3. FL-820S has the bypass valve at the backplate end of the filter, while the PureOne has the bypass located at the domed (closed) end of the filter.

4. Quality of construction is very good for both filters, fit of components is very good, and both are very clean inside the filter can and everywhere else.

I have been using both filters, but mainly the FL-820S lately. From now on until I see something else to change my mind, I will stick with the Motorcraft. They are about half the price and should do as good a job, plus the bypass valve is where Ford specifies it should be. Let me know what you think
 
I was on the Motorcraft Website a few weeks ago. The website claims that the Motorcraft filters have a "re-engineered" filter media. I cut open several filters last weekend and found that the Motorcraft element is like the regular Purolator, not the Pure One like you see in the oil filter study. I picked up the phone and called Purolator. I talked to a tech that said that the Motorcraft actually uses a filter media provided to them by Ford, that it was more porous. He said that besides the bypass valve, the old Motorcraft filters were identical to the Pure One. Now they have the sames silicon drainback valve as the Pureone, but a different media from both the Premium and Pureone. To be honest with you I was pretty disappointed in the Motorcraft filter after I cut it open. I will probably switch to Bosch. -Joe
 
When I get some spare change and have the time I plan to get a few more filters to cut open (Mobil,K&N, Bosch). I will take some pictures of what I did last night and try to post them. From what I could see with the Motorcraft and PureOne, they are very comparable, almost identical. Maybe things have changed since the filters I cut open were manufactured? If I were to repeat the test in a month or so, would the components reflect what the Purolator Tech told you? Changes made in the manufacturing process sometimes take a while to show up because of the inventory of product on hand. What is the phone # of that Tech, I would like to talk to him also.
 
Jakebrake, the number is 800-526-4250. I did not get the guys name, so I am not sure who you will get. Just out of curiosity, what vehicle do you use the FL-820S on, a Ford V8 or 4.0 V6 perhaps??-Joe
 
quote:

Originally posted by Jakebrake:
I have a 2001 Excursion with the 6.8 liter V-10 gas motor.

What a great ride!!! I wanted to get one, but it was too much for my wife to handle, she claimed that she wouldn't be able to parallel park it. Funny, we purchased an Explorer Sport Trac, which she can't paralell park. What is the oil capacity of that engine.
 
I'v said a number of times that I wou'n use PureOne anymore. Their shell thickness is .009" thick. Thats way thinner than any other brands that I have cut open. Both mobil 1 and K&N are .017"
 
Al,

Interesting, but can you cite any instances of engine failure caused by failure of the filter shell?? Dimensional stability of the baseplate is really important to assure no leaks around the seal, but for the can, strong enough is strong enough. You don't install filters with a pipe wrench, do you?

Mobil seems to be a fine filter, and if you were selecting it because of maginally superior performance in filtering 20 m particles, I couldn't quibble, but the paying extra for the can is just paying extra.

Rich
 
I think Al has a good point. A thin shell means that if the filter is exposed to anything, such as in my car where the filter is sitting at the bottom of the engine, it could be punctured more easily. A thick shell would be able to take direct hits from road debris more easily.
 
I think it would be about as likely to find a rail way ride all the way to Antartica as a rock puncturing a oil filter on a GM transverse 4 cylinder
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quote:

Originally posted by dragboat:
I think it would be about as likely to find a rail way ride all the way to Antartica as a rock puncturing a oil filter on a GM transverse 4 cylinder
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Thats true
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. I know thickness is probably not a big deal and I suppose that the likelyhood of having a problem is practically zero. But given the fact that most of us here are somewhat paranoid about oil related matters-I don't think I'm out of line
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OK, how do I post the pictures that I took of these two filters? I finally got a chance to take some pictures with the digital camera for all to see.
 
quote:

Originally posted by sprintman:
Al
Maybe .009 shell but still hard to kacksaw open (just did one today). Why do you see that as a weakness because oil pressure sure aint gonna split it?


I'm sure thats probably true. But for me, I want my vehicle to be as reliable as possible. And somehow a .009" inch shell thickness vs. .019 (as K&N) for a pressure boundary just doesn't make it for me.

I used to me a maintenance supervisor/engineer and saw lots of pressure failures. Remember they don't radiograph these shells for defects. I'm just really paranoid
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.
 
quote:

Originally posted by joee12:
I was on the Motorcraft Website a few weeks ago. The website claims that the Motorcraft filters have a "re-engineered" filter media. I cut open several filters last weekend and found that the Motorcraft element is like the regular Purolator, not the Pure One like you see in the oil filter study. I picked up the phone and called Purolator. I talked to a tech that said that the Motorcraft actually uses a filter media provided to them by Ford, that it was more porous. He said that besides the bypass valve, the old Motorcraft filters were identical to the Pure One. Now they have the sames silicon drainback valve as the Pureone, but a different media from both the Premium and Pureone. To be honest with you I was pretty disappointed in the Motorcraft filter after I cut it open. I will probably switch to Bosch. -Joe

Well about three weeks ago I switced to a Bosch 3410. The last couple of weeks have been too cold for me to take the boat out, so I have not driven the Explorer. My wife mentioned that the car was making a rattling noise when she gave the car gas. I drove the car around a couple of times and heard the noise, usually between 2 and 3 thousand rpms. I thought that maybe it was the weather, but changed back to a Motorcraft FL820S yesterday, and the noise has stopped. I have seen where some board members claim that the Bosch is too restrictive and may impede flow. As long a Purolater does not put cardboard endcaps in the Motorcraft, I'll stick with the Motorcraft. -Joe
 
joee, don't want to alarm you, but keep your eye (ear??) on that noise. It is "possible" that perhaps you have a intake screen on your oil pump that is partially clogged. That coupled with a filter that passes marginally less flow is enough to set it off the edge. Like I said-its probably unlikely.
 
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