Fram PH7317 (CUT OPEN PICS)

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Here you go, Fram PH7317. I think its a decent filter for a 3K OCI. But I would run a Classic over this. On the other hand, I would run a TG over a P1.

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Glued seam...
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All the way around...
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The ADBV felt ok, I think the Classic has a better nitrile ADBV though.
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Bypass valve felt the same as the TG.
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Bottom glue job...
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Top glue job..
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Again, not a BAD filter, not great either. I would run a Puro Classic over this, but I would run a Tough Guard over the Pure One.
 
Nice pics again! Nothing like coming home to some oil filter porn.lol Looks like a decent filter and has a better beta efficiency rating than the Puro Classic L14610 I believe. Fear not the FRAM!
 
Originally Posted By: sir1900
Thanks for the pics.

Looks "ok" for a cheap OCOD. I'd be curious to see how this filter looks after 5000 miles.



more than likely excellent. Im not a fram lover, but all the OCOD's ive cut open after they were used were perfectly fine. The paper endcaps scare people...but paper media doesnt?...
confused.gif
i find that to be a little odd. nothing wrong with and orange can other than costing more than a puro classic. perfectly good filters.
 
Originally Posted By: donnyj08
Originally Posted By: sir1900
Thanks for the pics.

Looks "ok" for a cheap OCOD. I'd be curious to see how this filter looks after 5000 miles.



more than likely excellent. Im not a fram lover, but all the OCOD's ive cut open after they were used were perfectly fine. The paper endcaps scare people...but paper media doesnt?...
confused.gif
i find that to be a little odd. nothing wrong with and orange can other than costing more than a puro classic. perfectly good filters.


You are correct. The price point for a cheap Puro plus metal endcaps provided more of a psychological comfort for the average BITOGer even though both may very well perform the same after a certain number of miles.

Here in my neck of the woods, a Puro is $4.50 vs $6 for Fram.

Assuming everything else is equal, I'll go with the Puro simply because of the price.
 
Looks fine. I've never had a "problem" with one either, but the same money will get you a better filter in most cases, but I'll use one without hesitation if the price is right. That one appears to have a lot more inlet holes than most orange cans, must be the Honda thing.

Like you, I prefer the Tough Guard over the Pure One, to each his own.

As always, thanks for cutting and posting! I appreciate all your contributions.
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
Looks fine. I've never had a "problem" with one either, but the same money will get you a better filter in most cases, but I'll use one without hesitation if the price is right. That one appears to have a lot more inlet holes than most orange cans, must be the Honda thing.

Like you, I prefer the Tough Guard over the Pure One, to each his own.

As always, thanks for cutting and posting! I appreciate all your contributions.
smile.gif



Yeah, I have noticed the "Honda" Frams seem to be made better (more pleats, more inlet holes, and better construction). When I look at other Orange Cans they seems to be lacking it inlet holes and the number of pleats is less. Like you said, must be a Honda thing. I dont understand why Fram has such a bad rap, the orange can is a budget filter, so it looks budget. The TG is mainstream and it has excellent specs with good construction, and the Ultra is well....excellent all around.
 
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It looks like they changed the fiber material they are using for the endcaps to more of a felt than the the previous cardboard.

Mediocre at best.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: sir1900
Looks "ok" for a cheap OCOD.

It does look better than many unused OCODs cut open we've seen here before.


Having used and cut a good number of orange cans I can tell you they are not all created equal. Some are decent (like the one above) others look like a kindergardner's craft project (the PH16 and PH8A come to mind). I've posted this before but I'll post it again to make my point, here's a PH3980 that was run for 5,000 miles with coolant contamination to boot.




The 3600 series are also good ones. I prefer Tough Guards though I will run orange cans on the cheap.
 
Originally Posted By: dishdude
It looks like they changed the fiber material they are using for the endcaps to more of a felt than the the previous cardboard.

Mediocre at best.


You can hate all you want, but they were never "cardboard".
 
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
Originally Posted By: dishdude
It looks like they changed the fiber material they are using for the endcaps to more of a felt than the the previous cardboard.

Mediocre at best.


You can hate all you want, but they were never "cardboard".


Generically speaking, it could be called "cardboard".

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cardboard_(paper_product)
 
A nitpick perhaps, but I prefer the previous tapping plate design shown on the box to the newer actual plate. Just me.

As a point of information, the PH7317 is $4.64 at local Wally's in this area.
 
Originally Posted By: sayjac
A nitpick perhaps, but I prefer the previous tapping plate design shown on the box to the newer actual plate. Just me.

As a point of information, the PH7317 is $4.64 at local Wally's in this area.


Why is that? The 7317 taping plate has more inlet holes that are larger...I see that is a benefit.
 
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: sayjac
A nitpick perhaps, but I prefer the previous tapping plate design shown on the box to the newer actual plate. Just me.

As a point of information, the PH7317 is $4.64 at local Wally's in this area.

Why is that?.....

Read the thread below and learn why. River_rat's reply at the bottom of the linked page, sums up my thoughts. The one being used now on the smaller filters again is actually an older design that Champ mentioned addressing by adding a secondary plate to their ecore. Which is ironic now considering they are basically under the company. While it makes no difference in function, it's a preference for installation purposes.

And, just as I'm confident that the Purolator engineers know more about filter construction, (including inlet hole size and number yada, yada) than a novice cutting open new/unused filters and drawing unscientific/uproven conclusions about filter design, I'm confident those at Fram do too. Quite certain there's plenty of flow in either tapping plate as designed by the Fram engineers so that's a complete non issue.

New Base plate for Fram
 
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