ATF change from Castrol Import to Amsoil ATF

[AKhan87]

so as i have posted before i had an issue in the shift quality (slight jerk between shifts) in my 2000 toyota celica gts auto, i did the 3x drain n refill method (usually done everytime i buy a used car without maintenance records other the carfax) so from all that i have read on BITOG and Amsoil website, i have decided to give (Signature Series Multi-Vehicle Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid) a shot in the hopes of improving shift quality (smooth as silk!), i added 4quartz 1st drain n refill, then 2quartz (2nd), and finally 1.8quartz(3rd) ATF dipstick still read over...(toyota manual says 4.2 quartz per drain n refill and i call [censored] on it) and between each drain n refill the car was driven at least 50 miles to to ensure the fluid reached operating temperature and circulated through each gear, is the current method i am using effective in changing most of the ATF out of the AT or is there another method? i refuse to get it flushed as 2 of my AT failed after flushes (9 months later for whatever reason it could be). So what i am attempting a good idea? will it change my shift quality (from castrol import to amsoil atf)? i am also planning on changing the transmission filter, and is adding a transmission cooler a good idea on my little AT? or is that usually for higher HP and towing situations?

Thank You any suggestions.

 

[JethroBodine]

You need to bring the fluid level to the full mark.

 

[pbm]

I have found that it's difficult to get an accurate reading on my A/T fluid after changing due to temp. The level appears too high after a long drive in hot weather but seems right after a shorter drive. For this reason I try to measure what comes out and put that same amount back in.
I did read that slightly overfilling will not harm anything so I'm a little less apprehensive now.

 

[Eosyn]

Wow, 2 Celicas?? I'm jealous. Good to have another Celica owner on the forums

 

[Rolla07]

Why would you need a transmission cooler? Only necessary if you are putting unusual strain on the car.
Drain and fill is the way to go.

 

[147_Grain]

Originally Posted By: Rolla07
Why would you need a transmission cooler? Only necessary if you are putting unusual strain on the car.
Drain and fill is the way to go.


+1

 

[Donald]

I would add back what you drain. Assuming it was on the full mark when it was drained. Don't try to go over or under.

 

[AKhan87]

So will changing to Amsoil ATF change shift quality much? Anyone had any experience with it compared to castrol import ATF? Also toyota suggested I never change my transmission filter, that's sounds right? I think it should be n if it should then at what interval?

 

[toys]

i have twice changed my tranny fluid on my 06 corolla with amsoil signature
series.trans. shifts perfectly.recommended fluid is toyota type IV.
in the owners supplement manual toyota does say to change the fluid @ somewhere around 96000 km ( even though the dipstick and regular owners manual says never needs changing)

 

[AKhan87]

So i found the solution to this ANNOYING issue, castrol multi-vehicle import ATF was put in before via drain and refill x3 and it barely improved the issue, but i changed the transmission filter, thoroughly cleaned the transmission oil pan and the three magnets inside that catch any metal shavings with gasoline and then power washed it with water, and then poured the (very clean) tranny fluid into a 5 jug quart to measure the amount i had lost (when taking off the tranny pan some fluid will come out please have a oil pan under neath to catch all of the fluid and also fluid will come out as you take off the tranny filter as well.) about 3.2 quartz of tranny fluid came out, i poured in 3 quartz of AMSOIL Signature Series ATF, WOW driving afterwards the car shifted so smoothly, castrol multi-vehicle import ATF is great fluid i put it in my 2001 GT auto tranny and that car shifts so smoothly i can't even tell when it up or down shifts but, that same fluid didn't do much in the GTS auto tranny but AMSOIL worked, i am an AMSOIL Signature Series ATF fan for life now, i think if you have a jerk or a slight hard shift, and no other fluid fixes it, this fluid is worth a shot as it worked for me like a charm.

 

[coachditka]

I'm not a fan of drain and fill. You are adding 25% clean fluid to 75% dirty fluid.

Find a shop with an exchange machine that will get all the old out and put the new in. Should cost about $100 for the labor and will save you lots of time and spilled fluid.

 

[AKhan87]

hard to find a shop out here in st. louis that i can trust, so i do most of my own work, most shops here wanna make money by using their "own" fluid recommended for that car and not the AMSOIL ATF or Castrol Import ATF that i use, so drain and refill works for me, plus i do a drain n refill 2-3 quartz diff cars diff quantity every 15k and it seems simple enough and has always worked for me.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: coachditka
I'm not a fan of drain and fill. You are adding 25% clean fluid to 75% dirty fluid.

Find a shop with an exchange machine that will get all the old out and put the new in. Should cost about $100 for the labor and will save you lots of time and spilled fluid.


Drain & fill is an expensive way to get to say 90% fresh ATF in terms of QTs of ATF used. Especially with expensive synthetic ATF.

A DIY flush is more cost effective and will do a more thorough job.

A flush machine will also do the job, but be prepared to "loose" a few QTs to the machine as it does not pump all of the fluid in the NEW container out. Also make sure the machine is purged of all NEW ATF before you add your new ATF.

A drain and fill using a MityVac is another quick option if you have no drain plug. And you get a very accurate measurement of old ATF extracted.

 

[BigO]

If you have access to a lift you may want to try this>>

Raise the car with a friend in the drivers seat.
Drain AT fluid and if you are knowledgeable about ATs remove the pan, replace the Filter, clean the pan thoroughly, replace pan gasket and refill trans with sacrificial transfluid.
Then have friend start the car and run it for a few minutes in drive and reverse.
This should allow most of transfluid in the torque converter to circulate out.
Then turn engine off and allow the fluid to drain back into the pan (5 minutes)
Then drain the Trans again and refill with new fluid.
Have friend start car and run it through the gears. Recheck oil level
I did this on a BMW and the trans operates normally.