Recommendation for 454 Valve Tick?

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My son's 1979 Chevy Cheyenne with a 454 engine has developed a valve tick on the drivers side of the engine. It is coming from under the valve cover.

He bought this truck 3 months ago, and I had him change all the fluids at that time. When he drained the oil pan, he said it looked pretty dirty. The oil was replaced with O'Reilly High Milage 10w30.


He is concerned about the tick noise, which just started last night. I mentioned to him that it may have something to do with the new oil cleaning the engine (he doesn't know how long the old oil was in there).

We added about half a bottle of MMO, and that seemed to quiet it down a little bit....but it is still there.


At this point what are his best options, regarding oil? I recommended to him to definately do another OCI, and dump that O'Reilly oil which may have cleaned some junk out. We are just not sure if its best to use 10w30 again....or switch to another weight of HM oil, like 5w30?


Any input would be appreciated. Thank you.


GL
 
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On an old 454 in Cali, I'd be using a 15W-40 HDEO.

Those BB Chevs like thick oil, and a 1979 vintage could benefit from the added Zn/P.
 
MMO works over time, be patient. I would buy a $3.27 purolator classic at walmart and swap out whats on there now to answer the cleaning question. Don't have to change the oil, just swap the filter. Maybe betting plugged
 
I would use a 40 weight in something like Mobil 1 10W40 HM or

Amsoil Diesel and Marine

and change filters every 1000 miles.

After the cleaning you may need to adjust the valve lash or replace the offending lifters.

I would also check the exhaust manifold gaskets on the side where the ticks eminate.
 
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In solving lifter issues I've had more success running clean light synthetic oil than heavier oil.
Before dumping the O'Reilly 10W-30 if you don't have an oil pressure gauge take an OP reading to see if your OP is normal.
If it is then I'd suggest M1 HM 5W-30 which is a heavier than typical 30wt syn' oil.

If the lifter noise doesn't further improve after a 1,000 miles or so, as has been suggested, you may simply have to replace the offending lifters.
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
MMO works over time, be patient. I would buy a $3.27 purolator classic at walmart and swap out whats on there now to answer the cleaning question. Don't have to change the oil, just swap the filter. Maybe betting plugged


+1 Give the MMO a little time to work. At your next OCI I'd replace one qt. of oil with 1 qt. of MMO and fill the rest of the sump with a good 5W30 HM dino oil. If that doesn't work it might be time for a cam and lifters.
 
Give it time- lifters can get 'ticky' and then clear up on their own.

On top of that, BBC's have an awkward valvetrain geometry with adjustable lash that's prone to ticking a little even under the best conditions- it might not ALL be the lifter, some of it could be need of adjustment. Or a bent pushrod- that's extremely common on 454s as well.

If it were mine, I'd pop the valve covers to do a lash adjustment and check (maybe just replace!) all the pushrods in the process. While you're in there, you'll get a great sense of how clean (or unclean) the engine is. We're talking saturday morning job, here. No biggie.
 
I had a 1988 Suburban with the TBI 454, and it developed a valve tick one time after a day of towing. I took it to my dad's mechanic, and he put a bottle of Hydra Valve Clean in it when the engine was idling. It cleared up the valve tick a few seconds after he poured it in. I was impressed. Maybe it was a sticking hydraulic lifter. I left the Hydra Valve Clean in until the next oil change and never had another occurrence after that. I always ran Castrol GTX 5w30 in the 454, as was recommended on the oil fill cap. (5w30 was, not GTX!)
 
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Thanks...I'll leave that job up to him.

He wants to get rid of the truck eventually (too much cost on gas with his low paying job) and go back to a pre-1975 truck with a six banger.


GL
 
Originally Posted By: Greg L
Thanks for the info!

I should also note that on his first OCI he added a quart of Comp Cams zinc additive, for this older cam.


GL


The Comp Cams zinc additive will not rebuild a worn cam.
 
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Originally Posted By: Greg L
Thanks for the info!

I should also note that on his first OCI he added a quart of Comp Cams zinc additive, for this older cam.


GL


The Comp Cams zinc additive will not rebuild a worn cam.



There you go, talking all that chemiztree, fizzicks and science again. If kind of thinkin' takes hold among consumers, it will destroy the marketing departments of at least a dozen additive vendors... :)
 
Originally Posted By: Greg L
Thanks...I'll leave that job up to him.

He wants to get rid of the truck eventually (too much cost on gas with his low paying job) and go back to a pre-1975 truck with a six banger.



Then I'd just wait and see if the sound goes away. A good friend of mine had a towing business in the early 90s and loved his 454s in the towtrucks... but he admitted that they all really should have quick-off tall wingnuts on the valve covers, reusable valvecover gaskets and you should carry a dozen spare pushrods in your toolkit. And he hauled more than one car where it needed to go with the towtruck running on 7... :)
 
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