Fuel Stabilizer: How does it Work?

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This includes FP and the OTC Sta-Bil stuff.

Does it:
1)Prevents chemical change in stored fuel?
2)Contains chemicals that made distored fuel burn better?
3)Both?

What I am trying to figure out is, if a fuel has been stored w/o stabilizer, adding it later would make it better.
 
It's advertised more as means to prevent the chemical change during storage instead of helping already distorted fuel.

However, my brother has a 2 gallon gas can that he filled up to use for his lawnmower over the season. Well, about 1.5 years later he still hadn't refilled that can and he mentioned to me that his lawnmower was putting off this white smoke. No misfiring, oil was still full, I figured it was probably the old fuel, so I suggested he get some fuel treatment since he won't use all the gas in a year and add that to it. He had a little bit of the 1.5 year old gas left in the can, so I added an ounce of some Pennzoil fuel stabilizer (can't remember what it was called, but it's a green liquid) to the can and an ounce to the gas in the tank on the lawnmower. We had a hard time cranking the lawnmower before adding the stabilizer, but after adding it to the gas tank and refilling with treated-distorted gas, it fired right up with only 4 prime pumps. I let it run for a minute and it began to smoke, so I left it running for a few more minutes and the smoke lessened. Shut it off for a little while and came back to it and then cranked it back up, no problem firing back up, and the smoke was nearly gone. He was happy to see that improvement, so a few weeks later I asked him if he got some fresh gas for it, he said he did and the smoke was now completely gone.

So it appeared to me that adding the stabilizer had some benefits even if added after the fuel becomes distorted.
 
I am a believer in stabil, I use it in my Harley Davidsons. With a 7 month old I don't get to ride that often anymore (I try but the wifey rides and I feel guilty indulging in a ride by myself). Anyway, the difference with stabil is night and day - even after 1 month old fuel.

I just started using FP60 in the vehicles, but am reluctant to use it on the Harleys instead of the stabil because I am so happy with it.

Just remember the stabil goes bad after 2 years (I think that is what it states on the bottle).

I've also experienced Stabil brining back to life a tank of gas. My boss had an old enduro and it wouldn't start with the 3 year old gas in it. I told him to try Stabil and it started up (rough but started).

So I would probably go with #3. It's better if you put it in right away, but it does seem to have restorative powers.
 
From Gold Eagle (StaBil) web site FAQ:

"I have some gas in a tank that has been there more than 2 months. Will STA-BIL Fuel Stabilizer make this old gas like new?

No, STA-BIL Fuel Stabilizer will not restore or improve old gasoline. It will, however, stop it from degrading further. The best thing to do is treat the fuel as soon as you buy it."

http://www.goldeagle.com/sta-bil/faqs_stabil_detail.asp?product=sta-bil&ID=81
 
I started using FP a couple years back in fuel I was going to store through the winter. I keep it around in case I need it for my generator then use it in the mower when spring comes.

I don't know if the FP was specified for this use instead of something like Stabil, but the fuel I've kept around has lasted 6+ months with no problems. I no longer use anything but FP for stored fuel.
 
I've never bought a bottle of Sta-Bil or any other gas stabilizer for that matter, and my Lawn-Boy juice sits in the can all winter long till next season, and never once have I had a starting problem. Most the time they start on the first pull with 3 primes, just as if there was fresh gas in the tank. Also, I never "winterize" any of them...Just put them away after the last use in fall, and next spring, they start up perfectly.

I also have an old generator with a '72 B&S 7 HP on it, and no matter how long that thing sits, sometimes a year or better, with fuel in the tank, it always, and I do mean always, starts on the very first pull.
 
quote:

Originally posted by GMorg:
From Gold Eagle (StaBil) web site FAQ:

"I have some gas in a tank that has been there more than 2 months. Will STA-BIL Fuel Stabilizer make this old gas like new?

No, STA-BIL Fuel Stabilizer will not restore or improve old gasoline. It will, however, stop it from degrading further. The best thing to do is treat the fuel as soon as you buy it."

http://www.goldeagle.com/sta-bil/faqs_stabil_detail.asp?product=sta-bil&ID=81


Hmmm. Last spring I fired up my three year old snowblower, just for the **** of it and because we only used it once last winter. It backfired and continued to backfire. I poured some Stabil in the gas tank and shook the snowblower around a bit to mix in the Stabil and waited a few minutes. It fired right up and ran with no backfiring. Funny thing is that I'm sure the gas in the snowblower already had Stabil in it because each time I fill up one of the two 5 gall. gas cans I keep around for my small gas engine equipment I first put Stabil in the can. Perhaps I forgot on one of the refills.
 
About 20 years ago I had a motorcycle (2 stroke road bike) that the fuel had sat in for a couple years. Started right up. Didn't have any stabilizers. But from what I have read, that fuel must have left gummy deposits all through the fuel system. So just that it starts up is not an indiation of no problems.

I like Neutra 131 for fuel stabilizer.

If Stabil is 95% alcohol, it is way overpriced.
 
TallPaul wrote: "If Stabil is 95% alcohol, it is way overpriced."

Since the 5% proprietary additive is not disclosed, I don't understand the connection between the isopropanol content and the price.
 
quote:

Since the 5% proprietary additive is not disclosed, I don't understand the connection between the isopropanol content and the price.

The 32 oz bottle is $13.99 at Pep Boys. So $13.99 for 1.6 ounces of proprietary ingredients seems rather high to me.
 
I would think that the IPA would help disperse moisture in the bottom of a gas tank. Also the IPA is likely a suitable diluent of the active ingredient so that a packageaging design is large enough to stuff a long nose bottle through the filler door of an unleaded tank configuration.
 
running 1>2 year old gasoline thru a modern fuel injected engine is just asking for major problems...most of the additives have evaporated or settled out..tank water condensation needs to be drained, not forced thru injectors

more than an 1/8th tank...pull old fuel filter...put on extension to fuel line from pump...use tank fuel pump to drain tank down to 2 gallon or less
put on new fuel filter
add 5 gallons of fresh gas and a half bottle of Regane or Techron Concentrate....drive to station and add 2nd half of fuel cleaner and fill tank

will save yourself an expensive injector removal/cleaning repair.

use the old gas in cheap reed valve carb'd lawn mower or old time drag saw after adding some Regane

http://www.mercurymarine.com/ethanol

What is phase separation, and how do I deal with it?

If significant amounts of water are present in a fuel tank with gasoline that contains ethanol, the water will be drawn into the fuel until the saturation point is reached for the three-component mixture of water + gasoline + ethanol. Beyond this level of water, phase separation could cause most of the ethanol and water to separate from the bulk fuel and drop to the bottom of the tank, leaving gasoline with a significantly reduced level of ethanol in the upper phase (see Figure 1 below). If the lower phase of water and ethanol is large enough to reach the fuel inlet, it could be pumped directly to the engine and cause significant problems. Even if the ethanol water phase at the bottom of the tank is not drawn into the fuel inlet, the reduced ethanol level of the fuel reduces the octane rating by as much as 3 octane numbers, which could result in engine problems.

The level at which phase separation can occur is determined by a number of variables, including the amount of ethanol, the composition of the fuel, the temperature of the environment and the presence of contaminants. It is very important (A) that the system is inspected for significant quantities of water in the tank before using gasoline with ethanol and (B) to limit exposure of the fuel tank to excess water. If phase separation has occurred, it is necessary to completely remove all free water from the system and replace the fuel before continuing operation. Otherwise, engine problems could occur.
 -


Figure 1: Sample of fuel from fuel tank in which phase separation has occurred. The upper phase is gasoline with a reduced level of ethanol. The lower level is a mixture of ethanol and water.

[ July 19, 2006, 12:49 PM: Message edited by: Steelhead ]
 
does FP really only serve to keep gas from going bad? I thought it was going to clean my fuel system or something.. I dont keep gas long enough for its seperation to be a problem.
 
I started a 86 TCoupe that had been sitting for 7 years. Threw some new gas in on top of it ...it started but felt like it had water in it. Two bottles of IPA ...no problem. The guy who bought it drove it all the way to southern VA (backside down 81) with 1/2 a tank of 7 year old gas. My premix gas/oil for the weed whacker is over 4 years old
dunno.gif
 
Thanks Steelhead, thats some great info for boat owners. Does anyone know if the gasoline sold from a pump has to specify whether its oxygenated with ethanol or MTBE. I trailor my boat and buy gasoline all over Florida. Is there any way of knowing which gas you are buying. The gas station attendants are usually clueless.
 
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