Old Sears edger just won't start

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JHZR2

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Trying to use my grandfather's edger for my sidewalks. A few weeks back, we ran it at their home with extreme difficulty getting it started. It is worse now.

Looking online, it may be from 1978 or so. The part number is 536.796515 and I think it may have an unlabeled Tecumseh engine.

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My grandfather has long used starter fluid to get it going, and he has mentioned that it has to be pretty well choked to run right. I still can't get it to run, short of constantly dribbling a bit of carb cleaner in the carb opening.

I'd hate to have to buy a new one when this seems to work. Recommendations? How would I repair/replace the carb? Can I adjust it?

Thanks!
 
If the timing is correct and the points is still good (replace condenser whenever you service the points), then it's almost always the carb that is in need of service (rebuild).

Try locating the components online and see if you can find complete carb rebuild kit. Then go to the library to find/locate service manual that may have cover this engine model.

Then you take it from there.

Q.
 
I have the same exact one I got off the curb, mine has no spark, the kill switch pieces broke off, so im assuming thats the cause of the no spark haha! If you need anything from it let me know, ill see if I still have it!(ill have to check what year mine cause they do look the same)
 
What Quest said. It seems your ignition is working at least enough that it would start and run. The carb is probably gummed up and needs disassembled and cleaned. You would need at least a gasket kit and maybe a service manual.

Does it have fresh gas in it at this point? Probably a long shot but maybe poring a dose of techron in some fresh gas and a lot of cranking and choking will get it to run at least passably.

You can also use carburetor spray cleaner and take out the mixture screw and spray where you can into the carb and that might have some cleaning effect on the main jet. Count the turns to remove the screw to get it back where it was.
 
I'd start with some fresh gas along with some Sea Foam/Techron in the tank. Then remove the spark plug and pour a teaspoon of gas in the hole and try starting it.
 
If it has to be run on almost full choke, then either something is wrong with the carb or there is something blocking the fuel line. How old is the line itself? Make sure everything is clean and clear. If that doesn't help it, then a carb rebuild is in order. On those little motors, they're not that hard to do.

When was the last time you cleaned the air filter?
 
Definitely have good spark. Fresh fuel with some additive.

Think it is the carb. If the engine is a Tecumseh, do they even make/sell rebuild kits any more?
 
Remove air cleaner, spray carb cleaner in intake, full choke try to start. should run for a few seconds and die. repeat process until it will run with out the choke and the carb cleaner. I use AMSOIL Powerfoam but the stuff from the parts house will work for this too.

Sounds like the carb is varnished up and probably a plugged jet. Will take a while to clear it all out but should work. then keep a good additive in the fuel. I keep AMSOIL Quickshot additive in the fuel can for all my small engines. I just mix it in when I fill up the 5 gallon can, then it is automatically put in all equipment
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Originally Posted By: TrailBoss
Remove air cleaner, spray carb cleaner in intake, full choke try to start. should run for a few seconds and die. repeat process until it will run with out the choke and the carb cleaner. I use AMSOIL Powerfoam but the stuff from the parts house will work for this too.

Sounds like the carb is varnished up and probably a plugged jet. Will take a while to clear it all out but should work. then keep a good additive in the fuel. I keep AMSOIL Quickshot additive in the fuel can for all my small engines. I just mix it in when I fill up the 5 gallon can, then it is automatically put in all equipment
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The only thing the engine will run on is carb cleaner... I've filled the carb up, moved it around, everything I could.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: TrailBoss
Remove air cleaner, spray carb cleaner in intake, full choke try to start. should run for a few seconds and die. repeat process until it will run with out the choke and the carb cleaner. I use AMSOIL Powerfoam but the stuff from the parts house will work for this too.

Sounds like the carb is varnished up and probably a plugged jet. Will take a while to clear it all out but should work. then keep a good additive in the fuel. I keep AMSOIL Quickshot additive in the fuel can for all my small engines. I just mix it in when I fill up the 5 gallon can, then it is automatically put in all equipment
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The only thing the engine will run on is carb cleaner... I've filled the carb up, moved it around, everything I could.


That's a good sign. Gotta keep doing it every time it dies hit it again, Spray it in while it starts to sputter and dies, keep the choke lever lock at full choke. At first it will start to run on it's own fully choked and then eventually with no choke. The only other alternative is to tear down the carb and clean it manually. I just went through this exact same thing a couple of weeks ago with my neighbors lil 22" craftsman mower.
 
Trailboss gave you the best "first thing" to try...this problem is also common on small outboards that have set for a year or more. Being heavily involved in marine activities I see many every year.

Let me add: a plastic bottle, like a pepsi bottle with a small hole drilled in the cap makes a great spray bottle. PUT A LABEL on it so no one takes a swig later on, then put some gasoline in it. A little squirt in the carb, full choke, then when it starts give it a little squirt every few seconds. Soon it will be running without the extra gas....with full choke still on.

Typically on a small outboard (10hp) after a minutes will be running poorly but self sustaining. Heading up the river....choke slowly being decreased as needed....most are running like brand new after 30 minutes. Gasoline does a great job of dissolving gum and the method is well proven.

Typically, the motor then starts and runs well the rest of the summer, and also next summer if you run the carburetor dry before winterizing.

As other posters have noted there is some chance that it will not recover and a rebuild is in order.
 
to bad you didn't live closer,, I have a like new Mclane edger just like that. very nice and I will never use it where I live now.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: TrailBoss
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: TrailBoss
Remove air cleaner, spray carb cleaner in intake, full choke try to start. should run for a few seconds and die. repeat process until it will run with out the choke and the carb cleaner. I use AMSOIL Powerfoam but the stuff from the parts house will work for this too.

Sounds like the carb is varnished up and probably a plugged jet. Will take a while to clear it all out but should work. then keep a good additive in the fuel. I keep AMSOIL Quickshot additive in the fuel can for all my small engines. I just mix it in when I fill up the 5 gallon can, then it is automatically put in all equipment
[font:Times New Roman][/font][size:14pt][/size]


The only thing the engine will run on is carb cleaner... I've filled the carb up, moved it around, everything I could.


That's a good sign. Gotta keep doing it every time it dies hit it again, Spray it in while it starts to sputter and dies, keep the choke lever lock at full choke. At first it will start to run on it's own fully choked and then eventually with no choke. The only other alternative is to tear down the carb and clean it manually. I just went through this exact same thing a couple of weeks ago with my neighbors lil 22" craftsman mower.


First you should spray the carbs outside just for looks.
Then you should remove both needle valves , but screw them in and keep track of their initial setting. usually 1.5 turns out . Take some carb spray with a jet tube and jam it in the needle valve holes. Spray until clean about 3-5 seconds. . Then get an air compressor with a needle inflation valve or any small opening. Hold it tight into the opening and blow them clean.
That should be it.
 
See the videos below to get an idea of what you need to do to correct the problem. Yes, it's a video about a Toro snow blower, but the carb is pretty much (if not actually) the exact same thing. This is the only video I can find that is lit enough to see well. If you tip the edger with the muffler up, you may not have to remove the carburetor. Skip ahead to carb disassembly cause he shows how to get at the carb through the blower housing first.

Good Luck!

Part I
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JM0Ej6eOBo
Part II
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ey53vFlbPgI
 
Get it running on carb cleaner then override the governor so it revs to the moon. It's just gotta suck a loogie through the carb, once that's done you're good to go.
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AS YOU WERE on tipping the machine over. You can tip it forward (carb up) some, but not all the way. Maybe someone else knows for this type engine. Don't need to get oil in all the wrong places. Honestly, when I tune any horizontal engine up (after checking for compression and spark), I completely empty the crankcase first so I can tip it any way I like while working on it.
 
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We have the exact same edger that was purchased at a local police auction many years ago. Ours had the same issue but a simple carb tear down and clean fixed it right up.

When the little engine finally wore out I plunked down about seventy bucks on a cheap replacement from Harbor Freight. I was dubious at first but the little chonda engine has performed well thus far. I just couldn’t see scrapping it. None of the (affordable) new ones are built as well.
 
I have the same edger and it has been a pain to start since new. I do the same thing your grandfather did. A shot of starting fluid and it starts and runs like a top.
 
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