2006 Mazda Miata, 1st New Car, my plan, comments please

[VaderSS]

My fiance and I recently bought a 2006 Miata as she could not handle not having one of her own, when I was on land and driving the 2000.

The car now has 75 miles on it, still on the factory 5W20 fill. From what I understand this engine needs no break-in, so my plan is to do an AutoRx application now, and do the first oil change 1500 miles later.

I plan to then put a 5W30 dino in for the rinse phase. At that point, I plan on switching over to Mobil 1 5W30 or, if I can find it, GC 0W30, and doing 7500 mile intervals, to be verified by UOA, and extended if UOAs show it to be ok.

I was also planning on doing an AutoRx application to the power steering, 6 speed manual transmission, and Torsen equipped diff, then switching those over to Specialty Formulations products.

I figure this way, I'll get all of the manufacturing trash out, and get good fluids in, right off the bat.

I'm also going to put RMI-25 in the cooling system.

 

[boone88rr]

You're going to put AutoRx into a 2006 with 75 miles on it????????

Why?

Doesn't your car have a warranty?

This what I would do but you can do whatever YOU want. Just from your plan it seems as though money is not your concern.

Leave the factory fill in for 1500 miles. Change to a 5W-20 dino for 3000-5000 miles. Then switch, if you want, to a synthetic 5W-20. Run 5K OCIs until your warranty is expired. THEN, when the warranty is expired, put whatever you want in there.

I don't understand why you would stray from the recommended viscosity so quickly. The AutoRx makes absolutely no sense. To me at least.

Maybe you have some method to your madness. I am very confused by your post.

 

[unDummy]

Change the oil/filter now to remove any MFG debris.
Then start a normal OCI with whatever oil you want.
The Mazda 6/3 UOAs with that 4-cyl are really good. I see no need to run a 30wt. But, thats your choice to make.
I also don't see why you would want to ARX a brand new engine. Maintenance dose it or FP it, but I haven't seen issues with this engine family yet, and I wouldn't bother with anything besides a good synthetic 20wt and 2 oil changes a year.

 

[mburnickas]

I would use LC on the oil and call it a day.

 

[Rick20]

I do not see this application as far fetched at all. The is considerable heat and friction present when breaking in a new motor. Such as rings seating or adapting to walls, followers to lobes. A well contructed motor will have some hot spots during break in. There will also be a high level of wear metals evolving during the initial break in. What you want to minimize is any wear metals getting trapped in oxidized oil during the break in process, that aren't free to drain after the in initial short drain.

The cleaning esters of ARX do not promote any metalurgy phenomenons. I suggest running the factory fill for the first 1000 miles of break in. Then run an ARX treatment for the duration of the initial 1500 mile run, before dumping. Get all the initial wear metals out, as well as any casting sand, from the get go. Run a second short change of approx. 2000 miles. Then run a full synthetic, if you wish.

 

[Pontius Pilate]

and i thought i fixed things that weren't broke.

 

[t0ked]

I personally think every motor needs time to break it in. They may have run the motor at the factory, but you need to take into consideration the car as a whole, not just the motor. Plus, engines have different stresses placed on them when presented with a load, such as the rest of the car. I would just follow the regular "change oil at 1k miles" advice. I also wouldn't switch to synth right away. I can see understand changing all the fluids after 1k-1.5k miles, but AutoRx now? Waste of money IMHO.

I don't think 5w-20 is much different from 5w-30 especially in TX where the temps are likely a bit higher on a yearly basis. I'd probably do the same, although I'd do the above "break-in" with dino 5w-20 and eventually switch to sythn 5w-30, something like M1 which everyone states is a bit on the thin side. Get it for cheap at your discount chains, too.

 

[surfstar]

You definately are a site sponsor supporter and a true BITOGer

I think if you go overly excessive or factory on the maintenance that the car will run great and last you as long as you want it.

 

[VaderSS]

Thanks guys.

My thought are along the line of Rick20's. I want to protect the engine as thorougly as possible. The best way, IMO to do that is to clean every last bit of break-in and manufacturing trash out as soon as possible. A simple oil change will not do that.

Will AutoRx prevent a proper break-in? If so then I will certainly wait for the 1000 miles, but if not, my thoughts are to get the trash out as it is generated.

My reasoning for the 5W30 rinse oil is that the 5W20s (IIRC) are semi-synth in nature and the best rinse oil is a full dino.

As for going to a 30 weight, in other parts of the world, thicker oils are called for in this engine as temps go up. If I were running dino oils, I would probably be tempted to stick with 5W20, as the standards are higher for it than a comparable 5W30, but for a synthetic, I'd like a bit thicker oil. From what I understand, it never hurts to go one grade thicker than what is called for.

I'm thinking now that I'll stick to the max interval allowed, 7500, to ensure I satify warranty requirements, and the UOAs will be proof to back up the fact that I was not overextending the interval.

Yes, I am a true, somewhat insane, bitoger...

Why can't I ever buy a car from someone like me?

[ April 27, 2006, 04:23 PM: Message edited by: VaderSS ]

 

[mshu7]

quote:

---

Originally posted by VaderSS:
Yes, I am a true, somewhat insane...

---

That's an understatement for sure.

It sounds like you're pretty dead set on what you're going to do so I really don't know why you're looking for opinions. I think you take the cake on being the most "over protective" person here when it comes to a new engine.

Personally, I wouldn't waste my money all that extra stuff - ie AutoRX - on a new engine. Yes, AutoRX is great, but on a new engine?

I have an '05 Mazda3 with the 2.3L I4 and it's a great engine (bigger version of your 2.0L I believe). There's no need to run anything extra in these engines IMO. Just dump the factory fill at 500-1000 miles and start your normal OCI. I just put in Pennzoil Platinum 5w20 at 15K and I'm really liking the stuff.

Bottom line, it's your decision but if you're looking for opinions, mine would be to not waste your time and money on the extra stuff.

Drive it. Enjoy it.

 

[Rick20]

ARX will not impeed a proper break in. There is a test on the www.cycle-rx.com, involving a Harley motor, that did not break in properly, had less than optimal compression. At 10,000 miles a cleaning run of ARX was done. Both cylinders were up 20 PSI. This motor got a new lease on life.

 

[hominid7]

I'd have to agree with boone88rr.....I guess i'm missing something, but i'm not sure why an ARX would be needed on a brand new engine. Some assembly lube in the mix wont hurt a thing

The Motorcraft 5w20 oil (and other 5w20's) are "semi-synthetic" but all that means is they have some group III dino oil in them, nothing more. They are not PAO semi-dino's so no fear in using them for break-in and or rinse phase. The factory fill is likely NOT Motorcraft though. Motorcraft/Conoco is just used for resale in Motorcraft packages, not at the factory.

5w20 for break-in would be fine but afterwards 5w30 or even 10w30 would be a good choice in Houston.

Check out:

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/dorothy.bradbury/probemx/index.htm

They reccomend NOT to use a GL-5 syn diff fluid that contains sulpher. This is their reccomendation:

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/dorothy.bradbury/probemx/p_m10.htm

I understand your desire to keep your brand new car in tip-top condition, but truth be told, the trannys and rear-ends in these cars are pretty solid and dont need a lot of maintenence. For the engine, i'd stick with a good dino for the first 5 or 10K to let it get good and broken in. Despite what you may read, all engines need to be broken in. A high-moly content oil would be great (havoline) for this. When its good and warmed up, take it out for a few spirited and careful revs to take it though its ranges, but take it easy when its cold for the first 1000 miles at least.

I'm on my second Mazda. My first was a 1.6 4 cyl and my current one is a 2.5 ltr 6 cyl KL and both have been great engines. I run dino only and have no fear i'll make it to 300K without a hitch unless i decide to sell it

Also check out:

http://www.miata.net/

As for filters, OEM are great and WIX makes some excellent aftermarket oil and air filters. For plugs and wires stick with NGK all the way around.

If your coolant is red its dex-cool, and changing it every 2 years is all thats needed. I like Havoline long-life dex-cool coolant.

I've been to Houston several times and dropped by HAAS Mazda and found it to be somewhat of a decent dealer. I've read some negative things regarding Best Mazda. I've never been there, so i cant say for sure.

[ April 28, 2006, 12:10 PM: Message edited by: hominid7 ]

 

[dkcase]

Start using AutoRX in the "maintenance mode" -- 3 oz. per oil change.

I don't see an advantage to using a full treatment first. There hasn't been time to build any deposits, so it won't be cleaning any.

 

[hominid7]

quote:

---

Originally posted by unDummy:
The Mazda 6/3 UOAs with that 4-cyl are really good. I see no need to run a 30wt. But, thats your choice to make.

---

You are right, however I would point out that the Mazda 3/6 engines are newer ford/volvo modular engines and the Miata/RX8 are still "Mazda" engines, so their design is different. Mazda Japan i believe is still recomending 5w30. Miata users have used just about everything from 0w20 to 20w50 with success.

 

[kcryan]

Dude its a miata, that thing will last for 5 billion miles reguardless, i dont know, i would go with the 30 weight idea, and do a fair # or early changes with good filters, and whatnot but i dont think the Rx is necassary, i wouldnt use LC until like 3k miles either, this car will be totally fine without either, also when your changing the oil for the first few times consider dumping a cheap quart of something through it to help push stuff out, but i dont think that Rx is going to help

Anyway im jealous of your car....

 

[darkdan]

auto-rx dissolves and liquifies sludge and carbon. your engine shouldn't have either.

The things that auto-rx dissolves get carried away and suspended by the host oil.

I think filter changes and oil changes are going to do more in a new engine then auto-rx. I'm not sure if it will help suspend metal particles and such.

 

[TR3-2001SE]

I think you plan is very sound. I would stick to 6000 miles changes after break-in even with synthetic. I have the 2001 Miata and from UOA's the engine takes about 25,000 to fully break-in. Auto-rx cannot hurt and may help. Nice car!