i am guna start using auto rx soon. wondering if i can use hydrocracked oils, like castrol, german castrol, and quaker state, during the rinse phase? i read your supposed to use dino oil, so am wondering is hyrdocraed okay to use or use a real dino, like havoline, mobile, ect.
auto rx an hydrocraked oil okay?
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Just follow the instructions. Hit the Wally World or Pep Boys and pick up some cheap dino. Save the good stuff for later. Remember you got $25 into the RX why blow that and the additional for hrydro crack?
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Yes.
While the Auto-RX instructions continue to improve, many people have historically asked questions that are answered in hte instructions, thus prompting the response "just follow the instructions".
This question has typically not been explicitly covered and is a perfectly reasonable question deserving of a real answer. I have asked Frank this question and received a positive answer.
You are fine using a Group III "Synth" like Castrol Syntec. It is the advantage in this case of the "fake" synthetic.
The usual scenario where people ask this question is when you have a high performance engine, or a turbo, or a car that requires some arcane Euro-spec for warranty and where Castrol Syntec meets all these requirements. For some people throwing away an additional $15 in oil you will only use for 2000 miles is a small price for peace of mind.
That being said, when I have run Auto-RX in Porsches (Turbo and NA) I have just used a good quality regular Dino like Castrol GTX, Pennzoil or an HDEO Dino.
Edit: I should have indicated specifically that this applies to Grp III North American Castrol Syntec. GC would likely have some polar issues with rinse although really it just means the rin se would take longer.
I suspect that this effect of using "real" synth is the primary cause of the increased duration of Auto-RX cycles in recent iterations of the instructions.
So the answer is probably that Dino oil will rinse faster than Synth but 2000 miles is enough for either and makes the instructions simpler.
NA Castrol Syntec would behave like Dino oil.
GC would behave like Synth.
While the Auto-RX instructions continue to improve, many people have historically asked questions that are answered in hte instructions, thus prompting the response "just follow the instructions".
This question has typically not been explicitly covered and is a perfectly reasonable question deserving of a real answer. I have asked Frank this question and received a positive answer.
You are fine using a Group III "Synth" like Castrol Syntec. It is the advantage in this case of the "fake" synthetic.
The usual scenario where people ask this question is when you have a high performance engine, or a turbo, or a car that requires some arcane Euro-spec for warranty and where Castrol Syntec meets all these requirements. For some people throwing away an additional $15 in oil you will only use for 2000 miles is a small price for peace of mind.
That being said, when I have run Auto-RX in Porsches (Turbo and NA) I have just used a good quality regular Dino like Castrol GTX, Pennzoil or an HDEO Dino.
Edit: I should have indicated specifically that this applies to Grp III North American Castrol Syntec. GC would likely have some polar issues with rinse although really it just means the rin se would take longer.
I suspect that this effect of using "real" synth is the primary cause of the increased duration of Auto-RX cycles in recent iterations of the instructions.
So the answer is probably that Dino oil will rinse faster than Synth but 2000 miles is enough for either and makes the instructions simpler.
NA Castrol Syntec would behave like Dino oil.
GC would behave like Synth.
interesting, gc would beave like a synt, and the regular castrol, like dino
What I was trying (clumsily) to imply is that while Castrol tends to be more secretive than other oil vendors, if I am not mistaken German Castrol is Group IV PAO, whereas North American Castrol Syntec is Group III Hydrocracked. I am not sure whether Castrol GTX is Group II or III, but I assume that very little current SM oil is Group I.
Hears a quandry. grp III and iv are both paraffinic in behavior. Is it the paraffinic behavior that should be avoided with auto rx or the polar behavior of esters that should be avoided with autorx? I am thinking that the parafinic behavior is prefered while an ester would interfere with the flushing of the natural esters and contaminants removed with autorx.
I agree. The ARX requires such a short OCI, why would you want to whiz away cash on a good oil, especially since the instructions say to use a dino with a low add pack? I am running Supertech dino for the ARX on our 3 cars right now, and will go back to a quality synthetic or dino after it's done.
I cannot confirm the original source of the following, but it seems to address the question at had.
Found at:
http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94615
Poster:
lordy611
"My name is Rich Eklund, I work as chemical formulation consultant to the Auto-Rx Group. Your question is loud and clear. The web site people will be correcting the confusion. I am pleased to see that ARX has some astute readers.
To answer your question, "Will ARX work with Synthetics?", the answer is yes. May I qualify that this is true whereby your goal is to clean out deposits and contaminants in a relatively well maintained machine. In other words a preventative maintenance application. Auto-Rx and its combination of cleaning esters will certainly enhance a full synthetic's ability to clean while performing its primary objective of lubricating. Most oils have only the amount of detergency to maintain a clean system, not clean a dirty one. So what happens is that if you put clean oil in a dirty motor, the detergent package gets consumed long before the scheduled oil drain and what initial cleaning occurred with fresh change, you give back at the end, and may be more over time. ARX will give the host oil many times over , the cleaning capacity of the host oil. The oil is still capable of lubricating, while the ARX slowly clean the deposits.
However, if you attempting to address a rotational seal issue, such as front or rear main seal or cam seal, then I would suggest using a dino oil and follow the instruction on the ART site.
If you have a very high mileage dirty motor, that will need two or more applications, I would suggest dino again for the sheer cost of running back to back cleanings.
ARX cleans a bit faster when run with dino oil. Reason being, ARX composed entirely of esters are polar and have somewhat of an attraction to metal. With dino's there are no other large quantities of polar materials and ARX has little competetion for the metal surfaces. In full synthetics, typically you a PAO lubricating base, combined with esters to hold the oils additive package in suspension. These coupling esters will compete with ARX for space on the metal surfaces. May I also note that many group III dino derived/refined base oils are marketed as full synthetic. ARX will work great with these as well.
So in conclusion, yes you may run ARX with a full synthetic and enjoy good results. However if you have rotational seal issues, dino would be your choice.
Hope this is helpful to you. Any further questions, write us back.
Best Regards,
Rich Eklund"
Found at:
http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94615
Poster:
lordy611
"My name is Rich Eklund, I work as chemical formulation consultant to the Auto-Rx Group. Your question is loud and clear. The web site people will be correcting the confusion. I am pleased to see that ARX has some astute readers.
To answer your question, "Will ARX work with Synthetics?", the answer is yes. May I qualify that this is true whereby your goal is to clean out deposits and contaminants in a relatively well maintained machine. In other words a preventative maintenance application. Auto-Rx and its combination of cleaning esters will certainly enhance a full synthetic's ability to clean while performing its primary objective of lubricating. Most oils have only the amount of detergency to maintain a clean system, not clean a dirty one. So what happens is that if you put clean oil in a dirty motor, the detergent package gets consumed long before the scheduled oil drain and what initial cleaning occurred with fresh change, you give back at the end, and may be more over time. ARX will give the host oil many times over , the cleaning capacity of the host oil. The oil is still capable of lubricating, while the ARX slowly clean the deposits.
However, if you attempting to address a rotational seal issue, such as front or rear main seal or cam seal, then I would suggest using a dino oil and follow the instruction on the ART site.
If you have a very high mileage dirty motor, that will need two or more applications, I would suggest dino again for the sheer cost of running back to back cleanings.
ARX cleans a bit faster when run with dino oil. Reason being, ARX composed entirely of esters are polar and have somewhat of an attraction to metal. With dino's there are no other large quantities of polar materials and ARX has little competetion for the metal surfaces. In full synthetics, typically you a PAO lubricating base, combined with esters to hold the oils additive package in suspension. These coupling esters will compete with ARX for space on the metal surfaces. May I also note that many group III dino derived/refined base oils are marketed as full synthetic. ARX will work great with these as well.
So in conclusion, yes you may run ARX with a full synthetic and enjoy good results. However if you have rotational seal issues, dino would be your choice.
Hope this is helpful to you. Any further questions, write us back.
Best Regards,
Rich Eklund"
so i am supposed to use a low add package oil with auto rx? didnt know that? whta oils, i hte 5w 30 area would bea good choice then? my car is a 1995 plymouth neon, SOHC atx enigine, has 74,500 origial miles. supertech? exxon? kendall? advanced auto oil? quaker state? i think oils like pennzoil, mobile, valvoline all have much better add packs.
Since you're going to be draining the cleaning and rinse phases early, use the least expensive SM rated oil you can find. More expensive oil would be a waste.
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