Toyota 2AZ-FE oil burn

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Originally Posted By: Char Baby
My buddy and his daughter each have the Toyota 2AZ-FE motor

His-'04 Camry 115K, Hers-'07 Scion tC 100K

His burns no oil to speak of in 5K-6K OCI...Hers burns 1qt every 1K miles

He has tried many things such as HM oils and 10w40 oils or both(HM 10w40), to no avail.

Hers has a known defect with the piston. Toyota changed pistons in those years (maybe trying to solve the clogging oil holes, created another problem?
grin.gif
) Its true, no oil can fix that.

http://www.rav4world.com/tsb/2011/T-SB-0094-11.pdf

No, the Scion tc is not included yet. But checking the engine code, you will see that it should be. Doesn't matter now, its gone beyond the warranty.
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
My buddy and his daughter each have the Toyota 2AZ-FE motor

His-'04 Camry 115K, Hers-'07 Scion tC 100K

His burns no oil to speak of in 5K-6K OCI...Hers burns 1qt every 1K miles

He has tried many things such as HM oils and 10w40 oils or both(HM 10w40), to no avail.

Hers has a known defect with the piston. Toyota changed pistons in those years (maybe trying to solve the clogging oil holes, created another problem?
grin.gif
) Its true, no oil can fix that.

http://www.rav4world.com/tsb/2011/T-SB-0094-11.pdf

No, the Scion tc is not included yet. But checking the engine code, you will see that it should be. Doesn't matter now, its gone beyond the warranty.

Doh!.. Because its a Scion its on its own. I forgot that.. Why its not included on the Toyota TSB.. Scion needs to make one of their own, which AFAIK, they have not.
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
timeau - We know whats causing oil consumption in the 2AZ-FE, wrote about it. One teardown myself, followed several more online. Nothing to guess about. Valve seals or the same problem afflicting thousands of 98-02 1zz-fe 1.8L Toyota engines.

Valve seal is easy to diagnose. Start your car on morning and if you have a blue smoke, disappeared shortly, this is a valve seal. Otherwise see below.

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Clogged piston oil return holes. Of course when the holes clog, it will throw more oil on the rings, possibly making them stick. Unless you fix "why rings stick", you will continue to have problems no matter how many times you jump to the ring conclusion. Probably the real reason your rings stick on the Nissan. That, and believing the Russians
grin.gif


And why holes got clogged? Due to deposits. Oil can't go into it, got overheated on rings and rings are stuck. Point by a finger where is the logical gap. In other words you are showing me a sick person and pointing an a high temperature of his body as a reason of a sickness. But this is just a consequence, not a reason of a problem. This man got frozen a day before. See a difference?

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Here is a 2AZ-FE piston with 320k on the clock torn down for oil consumption. Oil used was Castrol syntec, a semi blend. He had to drill the holes out. It was the only thing wrong.

I can't get what you wanted to prove. My point is that SOME synthetic oils, being heated, leave deposits on a piston, including holes. Any objections?

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
That Russian site suggesting syn is more volatile than conventional has been discussed

Really? Seems I lost an ability to read Russian
grin.gif
Where is it written? Please, copy/paste this phrase
grin.gif

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
testing method debunked many times by people on here that know oil better than I ever will. Really don't want to talk about it again. Post what you wrote in the forum, watch what happens.

These are just nice politician words. Please, use technical language. For example:
1. Something here
2. Something there... etc.

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
What we do know is there is a high complaint rate for oil consumption on Toyotas, especially this engine. Oil used prior to, or when consumption started is dino 90% of the time. Some dinos more than others. People switch to syn to try to resolve it. By then its usually too late, holes are clogged. Thats the part your missing. The last thing they want to do is go back.

I am repeating my question again. What was the reason that holes got clogged that early? (on less than 100k miles) What you had pointed to is 320k, very respectful mileage. Even mineral oil can be a reason on this mileage. But not on 100k.

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
And lastly, I've been using M1 HM for 130k on the old Camry in my sig. No guessing here either. @10k intervals. So I know its not making things worse, quite the opposite. If it were I would stop using it.

Wait a little bit more and don't tell than that I did not warn you
grin.gif
 
Last edited:
Already answered your questions repeatedly. See no reason to duplicate effort. We disagree, its that simple. The rest is up to the readers. The guy working on 2AZ-FE's or the guy posting in Russian working on Nissan's is right. Or we both wrong
grin.gif
 
Do the 1AZ-FE engines have the same issues? My Rav4 has 1AZ-FE and it has no oil consumption problems but it does give a small puff of blue smoke on startup sometimes.
 
Originally Posted By: supercity
Do the 1AZ-FE engines have the same issues? My Rav4 has 1AZ-FE and it has no oil consumption problems but it does give a small puff of blue smoke on startup sometimes.


That's valve seals.
 
Originally Posted By: supercity
Do the 1AZ-FE engines have the same issues? My Rav4 has 1AZ-FE and it has no oil consumption problems but it does give a small puff of blue smoke on startup sometimes.

Yep, valve seals. One of the 2 issues discussed. Your not noticing the oil consumption for one reason or another, but there has to be. Because thats what the blue smoke is. Oil that leaked into the cylinder from up above overnight. Burned off at startup. That also means during operation your burning oil too. More the faster you go. To replace them is simple, just requires the removal of the valve cover, cams with vvt-i cam gear, lifters, support the timing chain, remove timing tensioner. Now you can simply replace the seals
grin.gif
Parts are $20, labor $500+. Why I recommend HM oil. See if that can swell them up and slow/stop the smoke/consumption.
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Parts are $20, labor $500+. Why I recommend HM oil. See if that can swell them up and slow/stop the smoke/consumption.

Please, don't consider me rude and I do not follow you here. But sometimes we thinks differently ;-) How HM oil can help here?
BMW N52 seals

Pictures from there. Please, pay attention on internal diameter.
[img:center]http://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/5638/16219540.7/0_94f57_2bfc16ae_XL[/img]
[img:center]http://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/4121/16219540.7/0_94f58_408df1af_XL[/img]
 
Originally Posted By: timeau
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Parts are $20, labor $500+. Why I recommend HM oil. See if that can swell them up and slow/stop the smoke/consumption.

Please, don't consider me rude and I do not follow you here. But sometimes we thinks differently ;-) How HM oil can help here?
BMW N52 seals

Pictures from there. Please, pay attention on internal diameter.
[img:center]http://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/5638/16219540.7/0_94f57_2bfc16ae_XL[/img]
[img:center]http://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/4121/16219540.7/0_94f58_408df1af_XL[/img]

I can't respond to that engine, not familiar. But just looking (more Russian, cant read it), a HM could not swell that enough to make any difference. If the seals are easy to replace on the BMW, then do that instead. For the 2AZ-FE its not easy to replace if you can't DIY. So the labor can be expensive. Why you try a HM oil first. It sometimes helps depending on how far gone the seals are.
 
Just bumping this thread when I searched. I maintain a 2008 scion XB that my sister drives. 2azfe eninge, It now has 120k miles, its been consuming oil, brought it to toyota for their tsb goodwill posted on most toyota forums, but this engine burns about 1.5 - 2qts quarts every 5k miles oci, so it is not covered under their goodwill recall as far as toyota is concerned, apparently you need to burn 1 quart for every 1000 miles before toyota will cover this. Long story short, what is the best remedy for this engine? HM oil? 5w-20 dino oil ever since brand new, toyota oem filter. It now has GC 0w-30 just an experiment to see if it will lower consumption, as of yesterday, there is still concumption after 1k miles but lesser than the dino oil. What is the best way to go next? Pennzoil HM? Mobil HM? Maxlife?
 
This is an old thread but I'll say my two pennethworth regardless...

If you have one if these engines and it's consuming gargantuan amounts if oil, consider putting 20W50 in it (assuming you can find it in the US). These oils have very low volatility, have a low VII polymer loading and contain more truly heavy base oil than virtually any other viscosity grade. 20W50 oils do have some very real disadvantages such as poor fuel economy and poor oxidation stability. However when it comes to reducing piston deposits and sealing the ring pack, they are the mutt's nuts. I won't say that a 20W50 would unblock a pistons blocked drain holes but if any oil stood a chance of doing so, I'd bet on a 20W50 any day of the week.
 
Yes, that would do nicely.
Just out of curiosity, how much would you pay for VR1 in the US? If I look for it in the UK, if comes up on Ebay at £26.99 ($US 41.50) for a 5 litre can (think that's just over 5 quarts). I would say that's an extortionate price to pay for an all mineral 20W50!
 
Good grief! This is more or less the same cheap junk people would throw in their Minis back in the '60s and '70s. Clearly it has now acquired 'antique' status which accounts for the higher price.
 
Originally Posted By: si_jeff
Just bumping this thread when I searched. I maintain a 2008 scion XB that my sister drives. 2azfe eninge, It now has 120k miles, its been consuming oil, brought it to toyota for their tsb goodwill posted on most toyota forums, but this engine burns about 1.5 - 2qts quarts every 5k miles oci, so it is not covered under their goodwill recall as far as toyota is concerned, apparently you need to burn 1 quart for every 1000 miles before toyota will cover this. Long story short, what is the best remedy for this engine? HM oil? 5w-20 dino oil ever since brand new, toyota oem filter. It now has GC 0w-30 just an experiment to see if it will lower consumption, as of yesterday, there is still concumption after 1k miles but lesser than the dino oil. What is the best way to go next? Pennzoil HM? Mobil HM? Maxlife?


put 1 quart in at 2500 miles and call it a hard days work?
 
I have the said engine.
No discernible oil consumption at all, from day one synthetic only. It loves 0w20 feels and sounds better.
Only top quality fuel and a full system fuel cleaner every oil change.
Maybe its luck of the draw.
 
Originally Posted By: Koz1
I have the said engine.
No discernible oil consumption at all, from day one synthetic only. It loves 0w20 feels and sounds better.
Only top quality fuel and a full system fuel cleaner every oil change.
Maybe its luck of the draw.


No it's just that the typical issue with these engines is that the oil return holes in the piston crown get clogged when conventional oil is used. If synthetic is used, especially at such a light weight as 0w20, it's pretty difficult to clog those up. Now there IS inherent consumption due to the VVTi system but that's closer to maybe only 1qt per 5000 miles limited by how hard you drive the car. people reporting 2 qts per 2-3000 miles is... excessive to say the least.
 
I have 2 Tc's, 2006 and 2008. My 06 uses no oil. The 08 does. Been using T6 oil and Fram ultra filter. It has used 2 quarts in 6300 miles. Dipstick is at full mark now. When I used Kendell 0w-20 it was using more. Plan on topping off till its gets cold around here and finish up my 0w-20. Got the 08 used with 31k and it's now at 61k. The 06 had 27k and is now at 107k and never used oil during its 5k oil changes.
 
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