AutoRX with engine mods

[DJ]

I was thinking, I am preparing to go into the engine for a heads and cam swap, with work of this type there is always some risk of dirt or gasket chunks getting into the oil. I will of course dump some oil straight through to flush the pan and do a change minutes after the first restart of the motor.

What I was wondering is do you think adding AutoRX to the first batch of oil I plan to leave in any length of time could help catch any contaminats and safely deposit them in the filter reducing risk of damage?

I will be pushing the motor pretty hard after this round of mods plans are to be over 380rwhp NA through an automatic tranny with just a little stock shortblock LT1

. I know that sounds nuts but trust me I am not the first to go down this path so it is possible. Don't think I will be towing with the car anymore though

.

 

[jonny-b]

Auto-Rx is designed to clean engines from inside. This is about the best thing you can do for your engine. As the cleaning goes on, you will notice a slight increase in performance. The cleaning takes place slow and gently and keeps the contaminants dissolved in the oil untill it is safe in the oilfilter. When the metal surfaces are clean, this will make the oil perform better, since it is designed to lubricate metal, not dirt. Seems OK? Motorcycles with a lot higher output compared to the engines volume, use it with grat results( www.cycle-rx.com ). Just read their experiences.

 

[DJ]

Have already run AutoRX within the last few thousand miles, cleaning is not really what I am after this time. What I am after is the way it says it "removes third party abrasives" which I am at risk of introducing when I open the motor. With work of this type there is always some risk I could damage a bearing shortly after the first startup with a gasket piece or something else even if I am careful. Just looking to minimize this risk.

Motorcycles do put out a lot of HP per litre, my motor will be more about torque though will likely stay in the 62-6300rpm range for the shifts, afterall the car is over 4000lbs without me.

 

[Rich21]

Why not run the ARX before the overhaul work? Probably save you lots of hand cleaning time.

 

[Rich21]

Take great care not to loose gasket pieces into the motor ARX will not dissolve gaskets. However oxidized oil deposits that contain wear metals and airborne dirt ingestion ARX will definitly help. Also assembly lube is proned to collecting dust and airborne junk while you are performing your top end rebuild. Also, installing when installing new working parts there will be some initial wear during the break in. I guess you will be running a very short cycle on the first oil fill to combat that. Auto-Rx would be a good idea to run in this short oil cycle to be sure that the break in wear metals and dust are removed from the get go.

 

[Rodbuckler]

You should put considerable effort into cleaning the exterior of the engine, as well as every other part you will touch, before you crack into the engine. This will quicken the job, and lessen the risk of oil system or cooling system contamination.

 

[DJ]

The plan is to yank the engine and do a complete degrease on it before I open it. I did one cam swap in the car already and since this is a Caprice the engine is a LONG ways from the front and sides of the car. I swore I would not do that much leaning again especially since the motor comes out easy.

I already vacuumed the garage in an effort to get as much dust out of there as possible. Hopeing to do all the open engine stuff in a single day which should be fairly easy so it isn't just collecting dust.

Will likely get several oil changes inside the first few hundred miles, one of them before I even drive it again.

 

[Rodbuckler]

I still think it is a good idea to take the wand to it at a carwash to at least get the big stuff off at the rear of the engine, and the lower portion all around. The engine will then dry on the way back.

You might also drain the antifreeze out and run the car with just water with a hose down the radiator. That way you will only get water spilling out into the oil when you pull the heads.

BTW, pulling the engine is a great idea. It doesn't take much longer, and you can do such a great quality job with the engine on a stand. Its alot more fun, too. Take pictures for later.

 

[DJ]

The heads going on it are a work of art so yeah there will be pics. I am anxious to see how clean the engine is inside with the AutoRX, and FP/Neutra brew.
Should shake things up at the local dragstrip this year, early last year when running low 14s I was asked if I had nitrous, ran a second faster by fall at a different track. This year the question is how deep into the 12s will I be, still with no nitrous.

I may get a chance to test out how FP/Neutra help in reducing octane requirment, motor will be 11.3-5:1 after the headswap. Amaco 93 will be the easiest fuel for me to use but I might seek out some 91 after it is tuned just to see if it really needs that much octane when as clean as these products will keep it.

Will try LC and Neutra for cleaning the piston tops while it is appart too.

 

[Rodbuckler]

Good luck at the strip! It is always a blast to get the car and yourself tuned for great dragstrip performance. I am not familiar with the Caprice rear suspension, but I am somewhat familiar with the LT1.

The LT1 head is a great performance head, and a nice fast burn head as well. With the reverse cool and all I have seen people run 12:1 on the street with 93octane, but I don't know if they had to pull optimal timing to do it. You will be near the detonation limit at your compression ratio, 93octane, and sustained full-throttle operation. So be carefull. You might want to start with slightly richer than 12.5:1 at WOT, and check the plugs for signs of detonation.

Also, the piston crowns and chambers should have a thin, dry, and hard layer of carbon on the surface. This will act as a much needed heat barrier. It is the carbon build-ups that lead to detonation.

 

[DJ]

I thank those that offered input.
Anyone else want to add something? I was hoping Terry or Mola or the like would pop in but I suppose I am looking to use a product for an untested puropse and have admitted I could hurt something so professionals may not want to weigh in.

 

[DJ]

There were some suprozingly clean areas inside the motor considering the around 90K it had on it. Parts of the bottom of the intake were just an oil film on aluminum

 

[Rodbuckler]

What oil have you been running in this engine? Do you see any varnishing? If you do you might want to take apart one of the lifters and have a peak inside.

Do a short OCI as a flush after you reassemble the engine just to be safe.

 

[DJ]

I have no particular oil loyalty, engine saw everything from Supertech to Rotella to Amsoil.
Since the current fill is going to be a short OCI it is Supertech high milage 10w-30. I went with it ASSuming the HM would tend a little thick which this engine prefers of a 30wt.

It is all back up and running, pulls like a freight train too and I am having problems with this

.
I am busy getting the summer rubber ready to bolt back on the 235/70 all seasons just don't want to do the trick.