Crank no start, 93 S10 4.3

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Anything else I should pick up while here?

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New rotor, and some fuses that light when the blow, from Advance.

Now let's see if it helps to put these on, or if I need to get TDC and get more involved!

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Heading back to it now.
 
OK, different question: Will a 4.3 with the same 8th digit of the VIN from a 1994 fit in a 1993?

Starting to feel like something is wrong with the engine that is in there.
 
You don't need parts.

You do need this:
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And I think it's time you came clean with this forum if you've ever registered under another username.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
....
And I think it's time you came clean with this forum if you've ever registered under another username.


We're all thinking it.
 
Ok..let me take some time ,you're gonna lead me back to drinking.

From the looks of that dist.,your module may be shot..maybe.But listen to this... if the Number one cylinder was not at top dead center when the dist.,was installed in the proper orientation, you'll never get it firing.

Just from the looks of the inside of the distributor ,I must Question why it wasn't cleaned up and I can clearly see that the module wasn't a least looked at.I know the module is about a sixteen(edit; it's more like $50 sorry 'bout that) dollar part depending on where you get it. Autozone may be more expensive that online and I'm guessing you don't have time to wait for an online order.

You'll need to verify TDC on number one cylinder and correct dist stab-in ( the orientation of the distributor gear to the camshaft gear)and a buddy to help with that.If everything that I mentioned to this point doesn't solve anything you'll be onto camshaft timing.If your mechanic didn't change the timing chai or mess with cam timing in ANY way skip this step.

Check your plug wires to be sure they're correctly run and this means double checking firing order.

So far you've given us a clear heads-up whats going on..so thank you for that.Hear back from you soon.

edit; all of this sounds daunting but its actually only about an hours worth of work.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: FL_Rob
Ok..let me take some time ,you're gonna lead me back to drinking.

From the looks of that dist.,your module may be shot..maybe.But listen to this... if the Number one cylinder was not at top dead center when the dist.,was installed in the proper orientation, you'll never get it firing.

Just from the looks of the inside of the distributor ,I must Question why it wasn't cleaned up and I can clearly see that the module wasn't a least looked at.I know the module is about a sixteen(edit; it's more like $50 sorry 'bout that) dollar part depending on where you get it. Autozone may be more expensive that online and I'm guessing you don't have time to wait for an online order.

You'll need to verify TDC on number one cylinder and correct dist stab-in ( the orientation of the distributor gear to the camshaft gear)and a buddy to help with that.If everything that I mentioned to this point doesn't solve anything you'll be onto camshaft timing.If your mechanic didn't change the timing chai or mess with cam timing in ANY way skip this step.

Check your plug wires to be sure they're correctly run and this means double checking firing order.

So far you've given us a clear heads-up whats going on..so thank you for that.Hear back from you soon.

edit; all of this sounds daunting but its actually only about an hours worth of work.


I need to re-read this a few times, I would love to retain this one in addition to my Ford.

Should I try to enlist someone's help in checking this out?

And I have seen the Haynes manuals, reading them can be cryptic!

Stay focused, people. I'm working on a truck, not whatever else. Got a free day.

*edit: Makes a lot of sense. I went to the distributor this morning. I rerouted spark plug wires according to the diagram I see here http://www.fixya.com/cars/t4541129-need_diagram_firing_order_91_s10_blazer It did not much help. It still turns over, but I think I only made things worse by attempting a repair I have never done previously. So, now timing is even more jacked up. As to Cyl. #1 TDC, you say it will never ever fire if that is off, and I suspect this. I also see distributors in the videos I have referenced have a long part under them that I cannot see from looking at it, from up top. I keep going to and from the Advance in my Ford and seeing what part can replace, however I will return the coil as it probably is not needed. Let me go see what this can do, I will re-read what you wrote a few times!
 
What i posted is in addition to the the Haynes or Chiltons manual and they're pretty good at explaining how to achieve TDC on the number one piston.

Just pull the number one plug and at least check that you're at tdc on NO 1 plug. You'll then check the proper wire routing.

After that,loosen the distributor clamp bolt and turn the dist Either way but keep the bolt snug so you only need moderate force to change spark timing.Disconnect the brown wire leading from the ECM(dash.. You Tube it) and you'll need a timing light after that to dial in the spark timing.Cranking the engine in between( you can have your helper crank the engine wile you turn the distributor ..you might get shocked a little)This is from where you'll start.
 
If I were in your situation I'd unplug all the wires except the #1 so when you're trying to dial it in you aren't back firing and potentially causing issues.

Hopefully when you get it there you'll hear a pop on every (other) revolution, if you crank with the pedal halfway down.
 
Originally Posted By: cmorr
This thread reminds me of a certain Volvo/owner (photos driving to the store,etc)


That certain Volvo owner also ignored the best advice he was given and failed to focus on the problem at hand. Techno Log seems to have a very different attitude. He hasn't even told us anything about how comfortable the truck's seats are.
 
If you're looking at a diagram and even if you're one tooth off, you get a weird compression sound like it's trying to start... but just won't .This is why we scribe a line from the dist body down to the manifold base using whatever method ,marker, pen, pencil, metal scribe,that you can.
 
Originally Posted By: FL_Rob
If you're looking at a diagram and even if you're one tooth off, you get a weird compression sound like it's trying to start... but just won't .This is why we scribe a line from the dist body down to the manifold base using whatever method ,marker, pen, pencil, metal scribe,that you can.


FL_Rob, I have to tell you that I am totally grateful for the advice. If I had more time, some patience, some tools, and the wherewithall to continue to document in pics what is happening, I am fully confident I can get it to start and run, I agree with the weird compression statement. And I plan on saving this engine, so, at a future date, I can tear it down, and see what we see.

So, it is almost with great dismay that I must update the BITOG crew that I purchased a new engine. It is coming from Fredericksburg, MD and is leaving UPS freight tonight. The mechanic is putting it in the S10. I am driving the F150 and posting from in here as I usually do. I will attempt to put the old, removed engine in the back. The engine I purchased was verified as good and running in December 2009 and it will get her back up and running.

As I said, I am eternally grateful for the advice of the members and I will for sure verify that it runs as it should. I will also attempt to save the engine. May be relocating, as per a more lucrative work opportunity. Many things going on.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Cool!


Even cooler is that the mechanic got it running an hour ago. Check this out..

I had a chat with the mechanic today. Informed that a new engine was on the way. I discovered, upon chatting with him, that after I successfully limped the S10 to him, in an overheat and low power condition, that it stopped running while he was moving it across the lot. After that is supposedly when the two cylinders locked up. He explained it to me, that when he opened up the engine, that there was all this white stuff in it, probably from all the stop leak. He turned it over and then the other two cylinders came free, slightly lost what happened and when, but there are new gaskets on the engine. Bolts, too. So, my reasoning is that, when he freed up the cylinders, the crank rotated and threw the engine pretty well out of time. I relayed the advice from here as to Cylinder #1 at TDC, and I myself rerouted spark plug wires as to get that diagram consistent with what wire went to what cylinder. I get the text that it runs and he will put the coil in tomorrow today, a short time ago. I go to the truck, and the timing diagram is over the battery. Cap on, I ask him if it smokes he said no, and he simply told me to change the oil shortly after it gets back. This is all happy news.

I now have a spare engine sitting on a pallet, any ideas?
 
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