Short run Rehab, how long?

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I'm trying to rehab a neglected 986. When drained oil was over oci. Filter was starting to break up as well. I put in a new filter and filled with T6, since it was the cheapest full syn 5w40 I could find at the time. I figured that I would be dumping it soon enough so I have done more research since and am looking at M1 HM 10w-40. I have both M1 0w-40 and Castrol Edge 5w-40 on hand now. I'm only at 400 miles on the T6, how long would you run it as flush interval? I'm tempted to change it at 500 miles and replace filter. Thoughts?

I'd like to say that the oil that came out was pure liquid state, but there was some "glopping" during the draining of the pan. Could have been part of the filter that was breaking up? Overall car seems to have be neglected, unfortunately. Air filter was a mess, surpentine belt was shot, etc. Kinda sad to see, but I am slowly getting her back to as good as shape as possible.
 
Originally Posted By: salesrep
I would throw in a purging agent and change in another 100 miles or so.


Purging agent suggestions? My limited research says you probably shouldn't put anything besides oil in to a Porsche crankcase. If anything, I'd tend toward Amsoil's detergent based flush or maybe LubroMoly Pro-line flush?
 
What's the maintenance history?

How far over the OCI was this latest run?

Regardless, it seems like you're going down the right path. I'd stay away from flushes, personally.
 
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
What's the maintenance history?

How far over the OCI was this latest run?

Regardless, it seems like you're going down the right path. I'd stay away from flushes, personally.


Service history is unknown.

I changed plugs and plug tubes, which took care of most of the leaks that were dripping on the headers. I most likely have some seeping still from another area. Hopefully HM oil will help that some.

The oil and filter I changed out was way overdue. I don't know how long it takes for the Paper cartridge type filters to start to break down, but I could easily pull it apart with my hands when I got it out. No visible metal chunks in filter. Car runs and drives good, though. Wish I had gotten a uoa on that oil, but didn't think about it at the time.
 
Haha! Well, with a crumbling filter I think it's safe to say it may have been neglected. If you're not burning oil or having engine issues, then I'd be inclined to simply run any decent oil (any of the oils you mentioned would probably do well) at shorter intervals and see what happens.

I wouldn't worry about doing any aggressive cleaning, especially since the car runs well.
 
Those uncomfortable with a full flush dosage will use half. You will do NO harm flushing and the upside is getting as much sludge, varnish, rat droppongs, oxidation stuff out as possible, which will allow the fresh oil to better do its job.
 
I've decided to run one can of LubroMoly ProLine flush for prescribed idle time with a preheated engine. With a 9.4 quart sump, I don't think that is likely to be overdosing.

I also think the next OCI will be with the Castrol 5w-40. I picked it up with the bogo sale last month at AAP, so I won't feel too bad about dumping that one in a short interval if needed. Haven't decided how long I'll run it. Will wait to see how the filter looks and I might even try to strain out the drained oil if I see more glop.

Opinions on having a $14 NAPA uoa on this 500 mile run of T6?
 
I think your plan is a good one. I would also suggest calling LN Engineering and finding their opinion on it. They also sell a spin on oil filter conversion kit that uses a corvette filter.
 
Nice car good luck with it. How many miles? Year?

I do not think I would bother with a UOA until I was done with the flushing and short intervals. UOA's main benefits are to establish a baseline and then trending over several samples. Any results you will see now will be affected by your flushing and/or short intervals. I am a big believer in UOA's, use them on most of the toys, but I not sure how useable the info would be under these circumstances.

I would also be careful about the flush and not go too crazy w/ the dosage. Personally, in-lieu of a flush I would run several very short intervals with a top synthetic; Redline, etc.

Good to hear that there is no metal in the filter, how about plastic from the timing chain guides? I would also avoid the spin-on conversion, for no other reason than the ease of cutting apart and inspecting the pleats on the OE element which you should do.

What are your plans on the IMS bearing? As an FYI I will be having ours replaced w/ the LN kit later this year. I do not have any evidence of failure but I know of a few and, given the consequences of failure, am leaning towards looking at the OE sealed bearing as a maintenance item.

Good luck & enjoy.
 
2001 2.7L with 75K.

As far as IMS bearing goes I've got a sinking feeling about it. I one who is prone to imagining the "worst case" and then setting that as baseline. I'm not sure I'll ever trust the car much until I can pull the transaxle and see things for myself. Cost of clutch/IMS fix/IMS tools is not a warm fuzzy feeling. Clutch catches kinda high but feels good. I have not bled the brakes or clutch yet, but it is on the to do list. Shortly after I bought it the water pump started to leak. So I just did WP, thermostat, some hoses, and a new engine mount.
 
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Swapped the T6 out after 450 miles and five months. Warmed up the car, added one can of lubromoly engine flush and idled for ten minutes. Drained and refilled with Edge 5w-40.

Drained oil was very dark. Not black, but very dark. One or two hiccups during drain, but no glopps. Didn't cut the filter, but will in day or two after it drains off. I ran a magnet through the drained oil and it came out clean. I had a cold start tick for the first few seconds, I'll have to see if it is still there in the morning...

So far so good.
 
Finally cut the filter today. A couple of small shiny flecks but nothing large or hunks of stuff found.

So now the question is how long to run the the castrol 5w-40? I had a pretty strong tick on start up but I think either changing the oil or the oil flush did some good, because it is hardly noticeable at all now.
 
Maybe this weekend I'll get some pics. Don't drive it that much, as indicated by the 450mi/5month oci. New rear rotors/pads/sensors are on the agenda this weekend. Parts from Pelican came in yesterday...
 
1000 miles in on the Edge 5w-40 and seems to be working out OK.

Have been rehabing the leather interior some. Lots of Lexol on the seats. Had to step up to a product called Blackrock Leather Conditioner for the shifter boot. Seems to be helping. New dash speakers are in and you can now hear what song is playing fairly clearly. I think the audio system needs a complete rework. Trying to figure out why the AC is so weak currently. Looks like charge level is the culprit.

On another side note, I had a pretty big order to place with Pelican. I had dealt with Pelican Parts a few times, but their prices are on the proud side. I asked for a discount on a substantial order amount and they refused. I did place a $100 order with them for odds and ends, but the $1000+ order I had worked up I basically cancelled. I've sourced a few items from other venders already. Not Giving Pelican a bad review, but was surprised they wouldn't work with me price wise for a sizable order. They only would come down 5% off the total.
 
Next time you do an oil change, think about pulling the sump plate. Its very easy and looking in there will give you a good idea if the motor is sludging or if there are bad bits circulating in the motor. I would also get a magnetic drain plug.

If you pull the sump, be sure to put re insstall it with the tiniest amount of sealant, a 1- 1.5 mm bead, all around the sump. Less is more.
 
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