Mobil 1 0W-40 or Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-40

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Both meet A3 spec and both have same Phosphorus 1000 ppm and Zinc 1100 ppm levels. Which would you use and why? I have a 94 Mercedes-Benz with M119 4.2 V8 with 95k miles. Just did the cam oilers and the inside of the valve covers were clean as a whistle and there was no scaring at all on the valvetrain. Previous oils used were diesel 15W-40 CI-4 rated oils with higher Phosphorus and Zinc levels than the now available CJ-4 emission rated diesel oils. I am located in Sunny hot Florida and travel 12k a year mixed driving. Thanks in advance for input.
 
Strictly going by the specs that it meets, M1 0w-40 is a better oil, so I'd be inclined to use it.

In reality though, either oil will probably work fine in your application.

The 10w-40 is slightly thicker at operating temp, closer to the HDEO oils you used in the past.
 
Either oil is fine for Florida temps, with the 0W-40 providing better startup protection.
 
Remember manufacturers don't test every oil for every spec for monetary reasons. Certain weight or oil types such as high mileage are left out because epa. Now that 0W-40 is not all PAO, is it that much better? Europe does not endorse 20 or 30 weight oil as much as their beloved 40 weight.
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Strictly going by the specs that it meets, M1 0w-40 is a better oil, so I'd be inclined to use it.

In reality though, either oil will probably work fine in your application.

The 10w-40 is slightly thicker at operating temp, closer to the HDEO oils you used in the past.
 
Originally Posted By: joflewbyu2
Remember manufacturers don't test every oil for every spec for monetary reasons.

I'm well aware of that. Still, one cannot be sure that it would pass. It's pure speculation.

And as I said, I don't think M1 HM is a bad oil by any means. You really can't go wrong with either. You asked which one to use, so I gave you my reasoning.
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Now that 0W-40 is not all PAO, is it that much better?

Not sure what that has to do with its performance, but let's not open that can of worms again.

Quote:

Europe does not endorse 20 or 30 weight oil as much as their beloved 40 weight.

There are plenty of Xw-30 oils that meet both MB as well as BMW specs. There are no Xw-20 oils because nobody has figured out yet how to make one that would still have HT/HS of at least 3.5 cP.
 
Originally Posted By: jtwrace
What does PAO mean?

Polyalphaolefin (PAO) = American Petroleum Institute (API) Group IV base oil
Synthetic esters, etc. = API Group V base oils (non-PAO synthetics, including diesters, polyolesters, alklylated napthlenes, alkylated benzenes, etc.)
Hydrocracked/Hydroisomerized = API Group III base oils. Chevron, Shell, and other petrochemical companies developed processes involving catalytic conversion of feed stocks under pressure in the presence of hydrogen into high-quality mineral lubricating oil. In 2005, production of GTL (gas-to-liquid) Group III base stocks began, the best of which perform much like polyalphaolefin. Group III-base stocks are widely permitted to be marketed as synthetic motor oil with few exceptions where they are not allowed to be marketed as "synthetic" (for example, Germany).
 
Not if the base oil in one is a lot better. Considering the strong HTHS to kinematic ratio in the 0W-40, the base oil is a lot better in the 0W-40. But who cares if one has more visc modifiers or what base oil is used, all that matters is this..



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M1 10-40hm was my choice for several year long OCI's

Then I tried M1 TDT 5w-40 and some valvetrain noise got worse, but I left it in for the full year.

Then I tried the 0w-40 and the valvetrain noise is half what it was with the 10w-40hm and 2/3 less than the TDT 5w-40, and the engine feels slightly zippier too.

Hard to believe really. I wouldn't believe it if I did not experience it.
 
Given that the engine is a bit older and likely has some larger bearing clearances than when it was new I'd use the thicker 10-40, especially in Florida weather. But like everyone else said they'll both be fine.
 
I love HM oils but they could actually be of not very helpful if you have no leaks or excessive oil burning issues, another thing to consider that they swell the seals, then you may just have to stick to a HM oil for rest of the engines life.

Apart from oils which meet the MB's official spec, I suggest you consider the cheapest 40 grade oil meeting CJ-4/SM/SN spec you can get your hands on.
 
Originally Posted By: wrcsixeight
I tried the 0w-40 and the valvetrain noise is half what it was with the 10w-40hm and 2/3 less than the TDT 5w-40, and the engine feels slightly zippier too.


There's your answer. Higher basestocks adhere to metal better than the cheap stuff and this is one reason why your valvetrain is quieter.
 
Originally Posted By: wrcsixeight
Then I tried the 0w-40 and the valvetrain noise is half what it was with the 10w-40hm and 2/3 less than the TDT 5w-40, and the engine feels slightly zippier too.

Which engine?

I've seen a number of people complain that M1 0w-40 actually made their engine noisier, so I guess it's very much engine specific and you won't really know until you try it in your application.
 
I would use the Mobil-1 0W-40 simply because it's a better oil. With a higher viscosity index and more manufacturer's approvals, the 0W-40 is definitely the superior product.

Your Mercedes-Benz would certainly perform well with either product but a academic decision would point to the 0W-40.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: wrcsixeight
Then I tried the 0w-40 and the valvetrain noise is half what it was with the 10w-40hm and 2/3 less than the TDT 5w-40, and the engine feels slightly zippier too.

Which engine?




Mopar LA 318 with a roller cam
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: wrcsixeight
Then I tried the 0w-40 and the valvetrain noise is half what it was with the 10w-40hm and 2/3 less than the TDT 5w-40, and the engine feels slightly zippier too.

Which engine?

I've seen a number of people complain that M1 0w-40 actually made their engine noisier, so I guess it's very much engine specific and you won't really know until you try it in your application.


My observation has been similar. At least on my BMW M54B25, M1 0w-40 gave it a few seconds of lifter tick whenever I started her up in the morning. I switched to M1 TDT and I've never heard that ticking again.

I agree, it depends on the motor.
 
Valve tick at startups can also be attributed to the oil filter's anti-drain back valve (ADBV) not meeting spec. OEM oil filter would normally address that before oil selection does.

For your oil selection, as long as they meet spec, either would do. I would go with M1 0W-40 first then the 10W-40 HM if you're not happy with it.
 
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Originally Posted By: gregoron
Valve tick at startups can also be attributed to the oil filter's anti-drain back valve (ADBV) not meeting spec.

In case of cvx's M54 engine, it uses cartridge filters, so there is no ADBV to speak of. Any sort of valve system would be internal to the engine/oil filter housing itself.
 
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