Rotella T vs T6 for my bike?

[blahbqdc]

Hi, this is my first post.

I have a 2009 Yamaha V-Star 950 (air cooled engine, wet sump)

The owners manual shows this for oil:

Type: YAMALUBE 4 10W-40 or 20W-50. SAE 10-40 or SAE 20W-50
Recommended grade: API service SG type or higher, JASO standard MA

As far as my riding season, it is from mid-March to September and ranges from 50-90 degrees.

Garage: October - March, get's really cold average of 0-10 in winter, no riding

I really don't want to keep using the Yamalube. I am thinking of these three oils: Rotella T or Rotella T6 or Amsoil?

I am looking for best protection, best efficiency, etc. Not concerned about frequency of change, and not really concerned with cost … but do want to ensure high value for the money. Can you explain the difference between the T and the T6? I know one is synthetic, but that doesn't really tell me much.

Also, what would you recommend for a frequency of the oil change based on your recommended oil? I will probably put on about 1000 miles per year, maybe more later on.

Thanks

 

[OtisBlkR1]

if money is not a concern id be buying the Amsoil without question..

the Rotella T (conventional) wont shear down as fast in a shared sump bike.. and its cheaper

Rotella T6 (the synthetic) is popular but many on this board speculate it shears down faster than the Rotella T.

My personal experience is with the Rotella T6 and the Amsoil.. the Amsoil is fantastic but expensive.. the Rotella T6 is very cost friendly but ive found it gets notchy/clunky in the shifter on a shared sump bike faster than other Motorcycle specific oils ive ran. Ive been a long time fan of most 4T oils in the Mobil 1 and Valvoline flavors.. but your going to pay $$ for those as well.

 

[mount]

Either or my man. Try them both and see if you can tell a difference.

 

[blahbqdc]

Originally Posted By: OtisBlkR1
it shears down faster than the Rotella T.


What does shear down mean?

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: embsupafly
Originally Posted By: OtisBlkR1
it shears down faster than the Rotella T.


What does shear down mean?

It means it thins out to the point where clutch engagement does not feel smooth anymore. However, if you're going to change it once a year and you only put on 1000 miles a year, then I wouldn't worry. Both T as well as T6 can handle such short intervals no problem.

 

[blahbqdc]

Thanks for the replies.

I have a couple of followup questions:

What is the advantage of the Amsoil over the Rotella's? Is is worth the extra money?

Why would one choose to spend the extra money on the Rotella T6 vs the Rotella T?

Are all three of the suitable based on the oil recommendations from the manual? The numbers don't seem to match up.

Finally, I think I am going to switch to a Wix filter. Do Wix filters provide a good value compared to other filters from the store?

 

[needsducktape]

Why not buy dedicated motorcycle oil.

Its not overly expensive...AND IT WORKS !

There will be no question of compatibilities or protection.

Why over think it?!

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: embsupafly
Thanks for the replies.

I have a couple of followup questions:

What is the advantage of the Amsoil over the Rotella's? Is is worth the extra money?

If you read its description, Amsoil has some additional rust inhibitors which supposedly help reduce rust when the bike is stored (for the winter). Whether that actually makes a difference compared to other oils, we can only guess.

Amsoil is also supposed to handle long intervals very well. If I was putting on 10-15K miles a season, I'd probably be running it myself.

Quote:

Why would one choose to spend the extra money on the Rotella T6 vs the Rotella T?

No idea. I run Rotella T in my bike because it seems to be more shear stable and handles my typical 3K miles per season interval without any problems.

Rotella T6 works out great in car engines though at extended intervals. Since car engines don't have wet clutches/shared sumps, shearing is not a problem there.

Quote:

Are all three of the suitable based on the oil recommendations from the manual? The numbers don't seem to match up.

Most manuals will allow a number of different oil grades depending on ambient temps. What's more important is the JASO MA spec that makes an oil safe for wet clutches. All three oils you mentioned claim to meet the requirements of this spec.

Quote:

Finally, I think I am going to switch to a Wix filter. Do Wix filters provide a good value compared to other filters from the store?

Yes.

 

[BillyTheKid]

Do a search on Sunruh posts here (aka Steve). He spells it all out very well and has done some great testing for us already.

 

[rraiderr]

If you want a super stout oil you do not have to worry about sheering and price is not an issue get this and use a good filter.

http://www.maximausa.com/shopping/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=2

 

[Robenstein]

Originally Posted By: needsducktape
Why not buy dedicated motorcycle oil.

Its not overly expensive...AND IT WORKS !

There will be no question of compatibilities or protection.

Why over think it?!



Because if you look at some VOA's and UOA's then some dedicated motorcycle oils come up short when stacked against alternatives. Why not overthink it again and get the best bang for the buck?

 

[OtisBlkR1]

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: embsupafly
Thanks for the replies.

I have a couple of followup questions:

What is the advantage of the Amsoil over the Rotella's? Is is worth the extra money?

If you read its description, Amsoil has some additional rust inhibitors which supposedly help reduce rust when the bike is stored (for the winter). Whether that actually makes a difference compared to other oils, we can only guess.

Amsoil is also supposed to handle long intervals very well. If I was putting on 10-15K miles a season, I'd probably be running it myself.

Quote:

Why would one choose to spend the extra money on the Rotella T6 vs the Rotella T?

No idea. I run Rotella T in my bike because it seems to be more shear stable and handles my typical 3K miles per season interval without any problems.

Rotella T6 works out great in car engines though at extended intervals. Since car engines don't have wet clutches/shared sumps, shearing is not a problem there.

Quote:

Are all three of the suitable based on the oil recommendations from the manual? The numbers don't seem to match up.

Most manuals will allow a number of different oil grades depending on ambient temps. What's more important is the JASO MA spec that makes an oil safe for wet clutches. All three oils you mentioned claim to meet the requirements of this spec.

Quote:

Finally, I think I am going to switch to a Wix filter. Do Wix filters provide a good value compared to other filters from the store?

Yes.


well said sir !

 

[dnewton3]

Originally Posted By: needsducktape
Why not buy dedicated motorcycle oil.

Its not overly expensive...AND IT WORKS !






I guess you and I have a differing opinion of what "expensive" means.

When any decent dino HDEO can assure the same safe wear protection, and decent clutch performance, then spending 3x more money for a m/c specific lube seems expensive; at least to me ...

 

[Black_Thunder]

yeah motorcycle oil around here is ridiculously priced.


I plan to run rotella oil in my bikes/atv's indefinitely

 

[BigCahuna]

By me Rotella t 15/40 wt is $12 and change a gallon. Valvoline 10/40, and 20/50 wt motorcycle oil goes for less then $6 a qt. Either one would be a good choice and I don't think it would break the budget, even with a $6 oil filter. This is for regular oil not synthetic oil.,,

 

[apollomaker]

Originally Posted By: embsupafly
Hi, this is my first post.

I really don't want to keep using the Yamalube. I am thinking of these three oils: Rotella T or Rotella T6 or Amsoil?

I am looking for best protection, best efficiency, etc. Not concerned about frequency of change, and not really concerned with cost … but do want to ensure high value for the money. Can you explain the difference between the T and the T6? I know one is synthetic, but that doesn't really tell me much.



Hello Embsupafly ---- my first post so HELLO to everyone !!!

Well you have received much feedback here on your basic question. Just wanted to expand a little on that feedback.

First, the three oils you mentioned as candidates are very different from each other.
Rotella T is a Group II oil, formulated with conventional petroleum base stocks. Rotella T6 is a Group III oil, formulated with hydrocracked petroleum into what is allowed to be called a synthetic in the USA and it performs very close to a true synthetic. Which leads into Amsoil which is a Group IV oil, formulated with PAO synthetic base stock. All of these oils are good, within their own capabilities and limitations. Understanding what those are is key to selecting which way you might go.

Everything from cost to performance to change interval play into it. And so does the common compliance with the JASO MA specification which all of the mentioned oils meet. Not much need to worry about wet clutch issues with any of these oils.

Since I run Rotella T6 in my Toyota truck, I tend to lean toward it for my bike too. There has been much information compiled and scattered all over the net about how T6 behaves -- some factual, some speculation. But we do know being a Group III "synthetic" and having a bit wider viscosity/temp range, data has shown that it does have a higher sensitivity to shear breakdown than does a Group IV PAO based oil like Amsoil. I run my T6 in my truck for about 4-5 K miles and 2-3 K miles in my Aero 750. Actual test data that has been posted about lab results on T6 samples has shown a general average degredation of viscosity range from new (5W40) to typically 5W30 after 3K miles or so. These are general numbers but it gives an idea of when T6, a fine oil for the money, should be changed out in a shared-sump application. T6 also finds a good home in cold climates where start up behavior is critical. I do not have that issue, but others do.

Anyway, hope these few comments shed a little light on the whole huge picture of oil behaviors and selection criteria. Kinda fun actually.

Good Luck with your application!!!

 

[buck91]

Good reply, apollomaker

One thing I found in my search for motorcycle oil is that the 4T valvoline 10w40 non-synthetic has one of the better cold viscosity much better than rotella T (though not as cost effective).

 

[sunruh]

Originally Posted By: buck91

One thing I found in my search for motorcycle oil is that the 4T valvoline 10w40 non-synthetic has one of the better cold viscosity much better than rotella T (though not as cost effective).


so what if its so called pour point is lower if it makes the clutch and shifting feel like crud?

besides are you really going to ride in -30F or -37F or anything below even 32F when 1 patch of ice means you get to slide headon into that nice 18wheeler shiney chrome bumper?