Oil flush?

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Hi all

Long time lurking but first time post.

So, I have an issue. I've got 2.7 hdi Peugeot 407. 6 years old with 35k on the clock.

Previous owner has performed three oil changes in 6 years. Every two years so not based on mileage.

I have been getting "low oil pressure" warning. It happens ONLY after I've been driving and engine is at correct temps (oil and water). It will ONLY happen if I switch engine off, wait anywhere between 1-15 mins, then restart.

I can drive for any distance and get no low oil pressure warning at all. Only if I stop, turn off, then restart!!

I'm going to perform an oil change very soon, then start my own schedule. Every 5k or 6mths. Which ever comes first.

But I was debating whether to do a BG109 engine flush first? Car has age, but low miles. Then re-flush with fresh oil to clear out any left over BG109, then refill with correct grade and diesel oil engine conditioner. Then after 3k, dump oil again, more fresh oil then start 5k regime.

If first oil change doesn't cure warning, then I'll check the sender. If that's ok then something big is wrong!!!

So question is - to flush, or not to flush??? Any advice please?

Apologies if the above is very long winded!!! Also typed this out on phone!!

Cheers
 
BG products are decent in my opinion so I would not be afraid to use it...BUT...I think two or three short (2-3k) oil changes would do the trick. That would be my approach. Good luck and WELCOME!
 
Cheers for the reply :)

Yeah, did wonder if a few short changes would be better. Fully synth should clean out a bit more gentle.

I already bought the BG109, but after research regarding flushing, I can't say I'm confidant to do it!!!

I know engine is low mileage, but it still feels a gamble. A few short interval oil changes may well be the way forward!!


I am currently running BG244 through the tank. Came as a package. The petrol version always did nice on my old Passat every 15k. Probably over kill on my part!!
 
I am not a big fan of flushing an engine that has never been flushed in case some dislodged crud blocks something important causing damage.

It could be possible that it is simply a dodgy sender but I would change the oil sooner rather than later.

I would run a decent 5w30 full synth only in there, I think that model has the FAP system so would need a low saps oil, probably C2 or C3 you can try the oil finders.

Mobil, Castrol, Shell, Comma, Millers and Morris all have one.

Wynns do some at idle engine flushes but have never used them.

When was the oil last changed.

My concern with a diesel vehicle doing low mileages and serviced using the mad 2 yrs interval is diesel contamination of the oil, especially if the vehicle was used a lot for short journeys.

My Pathfinder has a DPF and does shortish runs, but always gets up to temp and is rarely driven in stop start.

It has a 2yr or 18k interval.

But when reading the workshop manual if you do short journeys it is shorter, 9k Nd one year I think off the top of my head.

I do it every 5k regardless.

Diesel causes all kind of problems with the oil, turning it into a thick Vaseline like substance is one trick.

That 2.7 hdi is a nice lump. But also complicated and expensive to fix.

Previous owner has almost certainly unwittingly left the oil in there a little bit too long.

As said a couple of short oil change intervals with a quality synthetic oil should do as much good as a flush.

Don't put semi synth or mineral/conventional oil in it.
 
The behavior you're describing sounds much more like an instrumentation problem than a real engine problem. There are very few (if any) mechanical issues that would cause low pressure ONLY after a shutdown/restart, but a gauge or sending unit... sure.

Lets face it, 3 oil changes in 6 years is borderline abuse, but *most* oils could take 2 years/10,000 mile intervals without turning to blackstrap molasses. I doubt there's serious engine damage or sludging, and I'd remove the variable of a bad pressure indication before I put the engine at even more risk by trying to flush it. Flushing, de-sludging, whatever you want to call it is an absolute last resort. I've been there and done it and saved anengine for another 100k miles, but it really was a case of not having anything to lose.
 
Cheers guys. Some sound advice there!

We can get liquid moly. Did wonder whether to try it. Was going to use a few runs of Mobil - synthetic to correct spec for its detergent qualities anyway.

I agree, last owner was poor in the oil change dept!!! He went by the book, rather than how the car was driven.

Engine does seem sound. I reckon with a bit of care now it has good potential to keep me going for a while. I got a Peugeot 407 coupe and its a nice motorway cruiser. Researched the car and know the 2.7 lump is good. Research shows no major issues. Just needs regular maintenance. I'm hoping I can bring it back to full potential as its only got 35k on it.

I do think the oil sender maybe going a bit U/S? The behaviour doesn't stack up for low oil pressure. Dipstick shows dirty oil, but not thick or black. Maybe a little to viscous in my humble opinion? Feels a bit thin on the fingers? Looking down oil fill hole I see sludge. But that's not to say its not deeper in the engine!!!

I'll do some short oil changes. Fully synth Mobil. No engine flush this time. I'll update this as I go along in case it helps someone else too?

Cheers again for the advice! :)
 
Whoops!!! "Looking down oil fill hole I see sludge. But that's not to say its not deeper in the engine!!!"

That is supposed to read I "don't" see sludge!!! Typo by me!!! That will teach me to type on the phone!!!
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Auto-Rx Plus or synthetic oil.

+1 on the synthetic oil but not the additive.
LM makes some good stuff for this job and with 40 yrs experience it would be my preferred product if i was in your location.
 
I perform a flush with a Liqui Moly or Wynn's product every 20.000 km in my Civic (now i have 150.000 km and the engine in like a diamond). I've always done a flush even for my old car and now it has 300.000km and still works perfectly.

But if I had an engine with 150.000km or more, without ever having performed a cleaning, I would not do a flush.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Auto-Rx Plus or synthetic oil.


I assume you've used the new plus line of this product or........... And what was the issue that required its use. I'm trying to decide on whether to buy some so I'm looking for actual experience with it?

OP. Pop the alive cover first and see if you even need to flush. If it is required then I would only use a name brand flush such as seafoam or mmo if available. You can drive with these in crankcase. Many have had very positive results with kreen but it must be ordered
Don't just jump in blind. Look and see if a flush is really needed. Sometimes just shortening the duration of the interval is all that's required to clean things up
 
"Don't just jump in blind. Look and see if a flush is really needed. Sometimes just shortening the duration of the interval is all that's required to clean things up"

Hi there. Yep,I'm agreeing with above. I think just some short times OCI will be ok. Going to use Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30. Expensive for every 2-3k OCI!!! (Around £50 per 5litres) about $75!!!

I did wonder about using a very reduced amount of BG 109 before changing oil? Tin comes in 250 mls. So I wonder if putting a 5th of that (50 mls) is worth doing? Not so harsh but will have a cleaning ability? Not so strong to dislodge chunks of sludge ( if there is any)?

Either that, or tin goes on eBay!!! I also got a tin of BG DOC ( diesel oil conditioner) but I think that is just a small tin of heavy engine oil. I saw an analysis that said it has same zinc level as HDEO and is about 15w-30. That will have to go on ebay too now!!
 
If it doesent use any oil i´d use hdeo for the
short oci cleanouts, maybe doped with a litre of redline.
 
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