Thoughts on Redline oil?

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If you look at a VOA for Redline it has the appearance of a race oil with lots of Zinc and a very high Moly content, BUT the UOA results seem to show the TBN reduction was rather too fast for it to be regarded as a long life oil for extended OCI use.
 
I dont have any first hand experience with Redline, but I have this to offer. I own a Porsche 911TT, and on the Porsche boards there is a guru there who knows more about my car than anyone Ive ever seen. He has come right out and stated he does not like Redline oils as he has had two valve train related failures using Redline.

FWIW, he recommends M1 Delvac and TDT in our cars, and 300V "if you want to spend a lot of money on an oil change."
 
Originally Posted By: NewYorkBuck
I dont have any first hand experience with Redline, but I have this to offer. I own a Porsche 911TT, and on the Porsche boards there is a guru there who knows more about my car than anyone Ive ever seen. He has come right out and stated he does not like Redline oils as he has had two valve train related failures using Redline.

FWIW, he recommends M1 Delvac and TDT in our cars, and 300V "if you want to spend a lot of money on an oil change."



Delvac 1 is indeed a popular choice. Doug Hillary, who has a great deal of Porsche experience is a big fan of that lubricant.
 
Originally Posted By: NewYorkBuck
I dont have any first hand experience with Redline, but I have this to offer. I own a Porsche 911TT, and on the Porsche boards there is a guru there who knows more about my car than anyone Ive ever seen. He has come right out and stated he does not like Redline oils as he has had two valve train related failures using Redline.

FWIW, he recommends M1 Delvac and TDT in our cars, and 300V "if you want to spend a lot of money on an oil change."



That sounds right to me, as most owners in Germany are using M1 or Castrol Edge.
 
Redline is one of best oils you can get. I would stick with it if your worried about wear related issues.

As far as what caterham is saying about them only making a 30w....I dont understand. They make many grades from 5/20 all the way to 20/50. Their oils have a higher HTHS value because they are made for high stress situations like racing. And if your turning over 8000 rpms you want an oil that can handle a lot of stress.
 
""heavier than a light 30wt oil (Yes their 0W-20 is a light 30wt).""

No its a 20 wt they show 8.2 cst @100C thats a 20wt there really is no such thing as a "light" 30wt or a "heavy" 20wt there is a spec range 9.2 is top of a 20wt but is still a 20wt, 9.3 is at low end of 30wt. but is still a 30wt.
 
Originally Posted By: bruce381
""heavier than a light 30wt oil (Yes their 0W-20 is a light 30wt).""

No its a 20 wt they show 8.2 cst @100C thats a 20wt there really is no such thing as a "light" 30wt or a "heavy" 20wt there is a spec range 9.2 is top of a 20wt but is still a 20wt, 9.3 is at low end of 30wt. but is still a 30wt.


Since we are correcting posts oils aren't classified in "wt",they are grades. So in reality what you are referring to doesnt exist anyway. The w on the bottle stands for winter not weight as well.
 
RL gives lower K Vis results because they are heavier/more dense than non-ester oils. If that doesn't put it a grade lower then in real life the HTHS viscosity(from high virgin VI) and high pressure-viscosity coefficient will do the trick.

In real life you might have about the same film thickness in bearings and cams with a lower viscosity grade Red Line. Not to mention the very little (if any) permanent shearing throughout the change interval.

Red Line 0W30 and Silkolene/Fuchs Titan Race PRo-S 5W-30 (diester) both have 3.2cp HTHS and are both recommended where min3.5 is asked for.

Specific heat/heat absorbing capability and thermal conductivity might be better than group III too...I am not sure though...I'd like TomNJ to confirm that please. That and better flow (less by-passing) might also keep things cooler and viscosity higher...film thickness higher.

Mid-Saps VW507/504 should be released within a couple of weeks.
 
Originally Posted By: bruce381
No its a 20 wt they show 8.2 cst @100C thats a 20wt there really is no such thing as a "light" 30wt or a "heavy" 20wt there is a spec range 9.2 is top of a 20wt but is still a 20wt, 9.3 is at low end of 30wt. but is still a 30wt.

The pumping viscosities (kinematic) are less important to engine life/durability than the HTHS values. Red Line lists their 0w20 as a 2.7 oil and the SAE J300 spec for 30 oils is 2.9. I believe that Caterham tested the Red Line 0w20 and found that it was 3.0 which exceeds the limit for SAE 30.

A 'light' 30 would be one having a HTHS in the 2.9-3.0 range.
 
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Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
Bruce isn't a BITOG student, he is a BITOG teacher.


Yes, long time no see. Bruce has many threads to "straighten out" for us.
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: martinq
Originally Posted By: bruce381
No its a 20 wt they show 8.2 cst @100C thats a 20wt there really is no such thing as a "light" 30wt or a "heavy" 20wt there is a spec range 9.2 is top of a 20wt but is still a 20wt, 9.3 is at low end of 30wt. but is still a 30wt.

The pumping viscosities (kinematic) are less important to engine life/durability than the HTHS values. Red Line lists their 0w20 as a 2.7 oil and the SAE J300 spec for 30 oils is 2.9. I believe that Caterham tested the Red Line 0w20 and found that it was 3.0 which exceeds the limit for SAE 30.

A 'light' 30 would be one having a HTHS in the 2.9-3.0 range.


Martinq
Your post does make sense however Bruce is a Jedi and we are mere padawans.
I made a wisecrack about grades weights which was in jest although after re-reading it I definitely didn't word my comment properly to imply I was just being a smart axx because I know Bruce knows the difference and he is pretty much as expert as they come.
Just sayin.........
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Just sayin.........

Understood. I was offering an insight into why someone would say 'Red Line 0w20 is a light 30'. There is a reason behind it and there is a reason why the kinematic values are misleading.
 
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