I do it stone cold and I don't use anti-seize and have never had problems.
Wayne
Wayne
Spark plug removal on aluminum heads
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Cold, a very light film of anti-seize, and I always use a torque wrench.
Whether it had anti-seize, oil or Robin poop on the threads, you'd have to be a total idiot twist off one of those NGK plugs pictured... Would require what, 75-80ft lbs or more???
I always use a small amount of anti seize, plugs always come out without a issue...
I always use a small amount of anti seize, plugs always come out without a issue...
Originally Posted By: wtd
I do it stone cold and I don't use anti-seize and have never had problems.
Wayne
+1 I agree 100%
Originally Posted By: user52165
FWIW - in addition I always hit each plug opening before removal with a good blast of compressed air to blow out any sand, grit, etc. Especially with vertically mounted plugs.
+1 This is also good advice.
I do it stone cold and I don't use anti-seize and have never had problems.
Wayne
+1 I agree 100%
Originally Posted By: user52165
FWIW - in addition I always hit each plug opening before removal with a good blast of compressed air to blow out any sand, grit, etc. Especially with vertically mounted plugs.
+1 This is also good advice.
If you go to the MOTORWEEK website , check out the video on GOSS garage on how to remove spark plugs. It a unique way to do it.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Only time you really want to use the anti-seize if you are putting the old plug back in (but then the question is why in the world are you putting them back in?). New (NGK) plugs threads have the plating which essentially works as anti-seize i.e. it will sacrifice itself to prevent plug fusing to head. All my Japanese plugs (6+6+4) have come out easily even after 10year/140K miles on them.
I have done a few engines that if don't use anti seize your probably removing the head, no matter what plug you use NGK or whatever! Ford endura (Kent) engines for example.
I did a Subaru that took some real patience, NGK plugs someone put in dry a few years back.
You have to know what your dealing with before making blanket statements.
Aluminum expands greater than steel so removing them warm is easier but here is why manufacturers always say do it cold...
Putting them back in! If you reinstall them warm you can strip the threads easier and even if you don't once the aluminum cools you might have an awful time getting them out in a few years.
Remove the plugs lukewarm (not hot, the threads maybe expanded too much making them easier to strip) and let the engine cool fully before reinserting the plugs.
Its not a bad way to do a difficult plugs.
Aluminium - Thermal expansion (25 °C) 23.1 µm·m−1·K−1.
Steel - Thermal expansion (25 °C)11.0 ~ 13.0 µm·m−1·K−1.
A small amount of never seize is fine just reduce the torque 20-25%
Only time you really want to use the anti-seize if you are putting the old plug back in (but then the question is why in the world are you putting them back in?). New (NGK) plugs threads have the plating which essentially works as anti-seize i.e. it will sacrifice itself to prevent plug fusing to head. All my Japanese plugs (6+6+4) have come out easily even after 10year/140K miles on them.
I have done a few engines that if don't use anti seize your probably removing the head, no matter what plug you use NGK or whatever! Ford endura (Kent) engines for example.
I did a Subaru that took some real patience, NGK plugs someone put in dry a few years back.
You have to know what your dealing with before making blanket statements.
Aluminum expands greater than steel so removing them warm is easier but here is why manufacturers always say do it cold...
Putting them back in! If you reinstall them warm you can strip the threads easier and even if you don't once the aluminum cools you might have an awful time getting them out in a few years.
Remove the plugs lukewarm (not hot, the threads maybe expanded too much making them easier to strip) and let the engine cool fully before reinserting the plugs.
Its not a bad way to do a difficult plugs.
Aluminium - Thermal expansion (25 °C) 23.1 µm·m−1·K−1.
Steel - Thermal expansion (25 °C)11.0 ~ 13.0 µm·m−1·K−1.
A small amount of never seize is fine just reduce the torque 20-25%
Originally Posted By: ronbo
If you go to the MOTORWEEK website , check out the video on GOSS garage on how to remove spark plugs. It a unique way to do it.
Not practical for a lot of cars...
If you go to the MOTORWEEK website , check out the video on GOSS garage on how to remove spark plugs. It a unique way to do it.
Not practical for a lot of cars...
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: ronbo
If you go to the MOTORWEEK website , check out the video on GOSS garage on how to remove spark plugs. It a unique way to do it.
Not practical for a lot of cars...
I can see that for engines like my Grand Caravan V6 that's hard to get at the back 3 plugs.
I wonder though if that procedure of partially turning out the plugs and starting and revving the engine to burn off the carbon is really necessary. Never heard of that procedure before.
Originally Posted By: ronbo
If you go to the MOTORWEEK website , check out the video on GOSS garage on how to remove spark plugs. It a unique way to do it.
Not practical for a lot of cars...
I can see that for engines like my Grand Caravan V6 that's hard to get at the back 3 plugs.
I wonder though if that procedure of partially turning out the plugs and starting and revving the engine to burn off the carbon is really necessary. Never heard of that procedure before.
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