Oil filter housing removal on 2.5L VW

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Patman

Patman

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I have never changed the oil on my wife's 2006 Jetta before, and was wondering what do you 2.5 VW owners use to remove the oil filter housing? I bought a tool on e bay which supposedly was the right one, but after further research I found out I got the wrong one (and bought it a long time ago so it's too late to return it) The one I bought is a 74/76mm wrench but it has 15 flutes in it instead of 14. After finding this out I went into my stash of graphite oil filter removal wrenchs and found one that might just work as it has 14 flutes in it and looks to be the same size as the wrench I got from E Bay. It is a Flo tool number 5. Has anyone tried this wrench on their 2.5? Or what about simply using a strap type oil filter wrench, would this work here? Before I go driving the car up on ramps and removing the underbelly thingy, I just want to make sure I've got all the right tools I need
smile.gif


Any other good tips for doing an oil change on the 2.5? I won't be doing the oil change until the spring (waiting for both warmer weather and another sale on M1 0w40 first)
smile.gif
 
I have a drain tool to get all the oil out first to where I want it, and then I just use whichever filter cap fits. I have one that fits good enough. It kind of wedges itself on there and is a pain to get off, but since it is all plastic, it doesnt seize, and since I torque it to spec, its no big deal.
 
I use this for my daughter's 2008 jetta with a 2.5:
http://www.etoolcart.com/oilfilterwrenchm219.aspx I think I got mine from amazon. I use a torque wrench to tighten so I personally dont like the strap type filter wrenches. I think the spec is 25nm but I would check yourself to be sure. The filter housing is plastic if I recall and I wouldnt want to crack it. Any wrench should work as long as its 74mm 14 flute.

There is another tool which lets you drain the oil from housing, but I dont use it. http://www.usatoolwarehouse.com/usatoolwarehouse/ASM-T40057.html?gclid=CNm8zpz9nbUCFYY7OgodlVcAEA

For $60 ill let the oil spill down the sides. I think you can put a screwdriver in there to do the same thing, but again I dont want to take a chance and break it.

Good luck!

Ray
 
Originally Posted By: Patman
I have never changed the oil on my wife's 2006 Jetta before, and was wondering what do you 2.5 VW owners use to remove the oil filter housing?

"Housing"? Is this a spin-on type or a cartrige-type filter?

Originally Posted By: Patman
I bought a tool on e bay which supposedly was the right one, but after further research I found out I got the wrong one (and bought it a long time ago so it's too late to return it) The one I bought is a 74/76mm wrench but it has 15 flutes in it instead of 14. After finding this out I went into my stash of graphite oil filter removal wrenchs and found one that might just work as it has 14 flutes in it and looks to be the same size as the wrench I got from E Bay. It is a Flo tool number 5.

Ugh. That's an el-cheapo plastic-fantastic piece of junk. You can get them at local auto-parts stores in Canada. I have one (from Canadian Tire, I think). If the filter is tightened to the upper end of its torque range, the Flo-Tool is liable to expand and slip.

If the Flo-Tool #5 fits your filter, then it sounds like you've got the same filter cap-size as Honda 15400-PLM-A01/A02 and Toyota 90915-YZZF2. For you, I highly recommend the genuine Honda tool 07AAA-PLCA100. This socket is about $50, is made of 3/32" thick steel, and does NOT expand and slip no matter what. I imagine VW dealers can probably get a similar socket.
 
Originally Posted By: Tegger

"Housing"? Is this a spin-on type or a cartrige-type filter?



It's a cartridge type of filter. I double checked the Flo Tool one again and it isn't going to work, as the inside diameter is much smaller. I originally compared it to the other tool I had and it matched up, but only on the outside diameter, but obviously that's not good enough.

I'm definitely going to have to get the right wrench now, I've found one on E Bay from the UK for $17 shipped, so if I can't find anything cheaper or something in a local store, then I'll probably go with that one. It's listed as 74mm with 14 flutes.
 
A 36mm socket works, but the housing will twist/distort when you try to break it loose. It is quite hairy...since if you break it, it's $80 for another one.

The filter housing will be tight, so be prepared.

Also, you'll need to replace the drain plug at every oil change if you want to do the job properly (washer is captive).
 
Man, it seems like this oil change is going to be a lot of hassle and I'm going to need a lot of tools to properly do it, maybe I should just take it to Mr Lube like I did last year? I'm a die hard DIYer, but this one just sounds like a lot more work.

Or at the very least, I might just change the oil only and leave the filter on there for one more year. She only drives about 12,000km a year and IIRC the VW OEM filters do claim to be a 2 year or 30,000 km filter.
 
Its really not that bad, just get the proper tool, it is all you need. You dont need the tool to drain the housing. Oil has bee spilling down the sides of old filters forever, but someone decides we need another tool. I have 3 cars with this type of filter, unfortunately all three are different sizes so I had to buy three different ones. I dont think Mr lube would carry the proper spec oil. It takes vw spec 502.00. and only needs to be changed every 10k miles
 
Originally Posted By: raaizin
I dont think Mr lube would carry the proper spec oil. It takes vw spec 502.00. and only needs to be changed every 10k miles


They do carry the proper spec oil actually, as I took her Jetta to them last spring and they put in Motul 5w40 (the VW spec one) They also carry M1 0w40 (which is what I'm planning on switching the VW over to on it's next oil change)
 
Assenmacher Specialty Tools model M0219 is a metal 74mm Oil Filter Wrench 14 flats. I bought one to change the oil on my dad's MB E350, ... worked great.
 
I just bought a 76mm/14 flat wrench from E Bay for $17 shipped, so hopefully this one works! (I've read of others with 2.5 VWs using a 76/14 wrench with success)
 
Originally Posted By: Patman
Originally Posted By: raaizin
I dont think Mr lube would carry the proper spec oil. It takes vw spec 502.00. and only needs to be changed every 10k miles


They do carry the proper spec oil actually, as I took her Jetta to them last spring and they put in Motul 5w40 (the VW spec one) They also carry M1 0w40 (which is what I'm planning on switching the VW over to on it's next oil change)


I use mobil 1 0w40 also
 
I feel like I can add some clarity here, as I've changed the oil on far too many of these 5 cylinders. The 76mm/14 flute is correct. VW/Audi dealers use the Hazet tool, but they're about $80. Unscrew the little cap on the end of the housing, use a small screwdriver to push the small orange valve in, and then up to hold it in place. The oil will drain, then push the valve back in and let it return to it's original position to seal. Remember to change the o-ring in the housing, and be careful. Seat the filter cartridge to the housing on the block, not in the "cup." If you're not careful, and put the filter in the "cup" the o-ring can unseat itself and get pinched when re-installing, then it'll leak quite a bit. Otherwise, it's a fairly easy oil change. Steel oil pans get the drain plug torqued to 30 lb/ft. 1 yr/10K miles is your OCI, stick to it. The longer OCIs are for European models, not North American.
 
Originally Posted By: izualangel
Steel oil pans get the drain plug torqued to 30 lb/ft. 1 yr/10K miles is your OCI, stick to it. The longer OCIs are for European models, not North American.


NO! Oil drain plug torque is 22 ft-lbs, 30 ft-lbs is definitely going to kill one of those.
 
I just finished changing the oil in this car and ran into a big of a snag that I hope isn't going to be a problem in the future. When I removed the filter housing and took out the filter, there was no o ring in there. And to me it looked like if I put the new o ring into the housing, then it would not be able to screw all the way back into the engine block properly as the o ring would block all of the threads in the housing. And I figured if the filter did not leak without an o ring on there for 8000 miles, then why do I even need one? I guess time will tell if this is going to be a problem for me. After running the engine for a few minutes I saw no evidence of any leaks.
 
After looking at those pics I now am sure that I simply left in the existing o-ring that was on there already and didn't even realize it was there! So I was attempting to put the new o-ring on top of the old one and that's why it would not fit properly. Using the o-ring for a second time doesn't seem to be a problem though, I'll just be sure to keep an eye on it for a while to make sure it doesn't leak. Then I'll make sure to change it on the next oil change.
 
Patman -
You could change the o-ring when the mood strikes. There should be no drain/drippage if you remove the filter cap. It is inverted, correct?

Some TDI guys go 20 to 25k miles on that filter/ o-ring combo, not that I'm suggesting it. Just an FYI.

When you do remove it, there is a spot on the groove where you can get the head of a small screwdriver (or similar tool) behind the o-ring and easily flip it out.

Convoluted wording, but easy enough when you look at it.
 
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