Hi friends i have a lexus is200 iam the second owner to this car i bought the car with 65,000km the previous owner used toyota 10w-40 sythetic oil i got the car and switch the oil to mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic oil. I do only city driving andon weekends some spirited driving also i have change the oil every 10,000km. The thing is that now the car has 92,000km and its been burning oil like about 1/2 quart every 10,000km. Do you guys think i could use a 0w-40 to fix this oil consumption? Thanks
Do i switch engine oil? lexus is200
- Thread starter JorgeSimon
- Start date
- Status
The consumption rate of 1/2 quarts every 10,000 km is nothing to worry about. If you have oil at full level at beginning, then by the time you change it again 1/2 quarts low is still in safe mode.
On the other hand, M1 0W40 is very good oil and you can try it if you like.
On the other hand, M1 0W40 is very good oil and you can try it if you like.
1/2qt every 10,000km... whats there to fix? Understand that ALL cars burn oil, some burn very little and some burn a measurable amount. In your case its a very small, measurable amount. Stick with the Mobil 1 5w-30.
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
The consumption rate of 1/2 quarts every 10,000 km is nothing to worry about. If you have oil at full level at beginning, then by the time you change it again 1/2 quarts low is still in safe mode.
On the other hand, M1 0W40 is very good oil and you can try it if you like.
Thanks for helping but do you think that if i go with a higher grade oil the internals in my engine will damge? Or will the car run slower?
The consumption rate of 1/2 quarts every 10,000 km is nothing to worry about. If you have oil at full level at beginning, then by the time you change it again 1/2 quarts low is still in safe mode.
On the other hand, M1 0W40 is very good oil and you can try it if you like.
Thanks for helping but do you think that if i go with a higher grade oil the internals in my engine will damge? Or will the car run slower?
Originally Posted By: JorgeSimon
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
The consumption rate of 1/2 quarts every 10,000 km is nothing to worry about. If you have oil at full level at beginning, then by the time you change it again 1/2 quarts low is still in safe mode.
On the other hand, M1 0W40 is very good oil and you can try it if you like.
Thanks for helping but do you think that if i go with a higher grade oil the internals in my engine will damge? Or will the car run slower?
Not gonna hurt anything. Yes you might be a tad slower and get a little less MPGs
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
The consumption rate of 1/2 quarts every 10,000 km is nothing to worry about. If you have oil at full level at beginning, then by the time you change it again 1/2 quarts low is still in safe mode.
On the other hand, M1 0W40 is very good oil and you can try it if you like.
Thanks for helping but do you think that if i go with a higher grade oil the internals in my engine will damge? Or will the car run slower?
Not gonna hurt anything. Yes you might be a tad slower and get a little less MPGs
10,000 KM is 6250 miles. That's a long way to burn a half quart. I probably wouldn't even top off between changes with that little of usage.
The UK Mobil site puts forward 0w40 Mobil 1 New Life for the '99 on IS200.
It mentions some additional viscosities.
"Alternative recommendations: -7°C to >38°C, 20W-50; -12°C to >38°C, 15W-40
d. Alternative recommendations, Extremely low temperatures:
I assume Honduras is often hotter than 10oC.
I would personally change to 0w40 Mobil 1. Especially since you drive it a bit harder at the weekend.
It mentions some additional viscosities.
"Alternative recommendations: -7°C to >38°C, 20W-50; -12°C to >38°C, 15W-40
d. Alternative recommendations, Extremely low temperatures:
I assume Honduras is often hotter than 10oC.
I would personally change to 0w40 Mobil 1. Especially since you drive it a bit harder at the weekend.
Thanks friends i will change to mobil 0w-40 thanks for helping out
Originally Posted By: randomhero439
1/2qt every 10,000km... whats there to fix? Understand that ALL cars burn oil, some burn very little and some burn a measurable amount. In your case its a very small, measurable amount. Stick with the Mobil 1 5w-30.
I guess I'm one of the lucky ones. Neither vehicles burn any oil.
1/2qt every 10,000km... whats there to fix? Understand that ALL cars burn oil, some burn very little and some burn a measurable amount. In your case its a very small, measurable amount. Stick with the Mobil 1 5w-30.
I guess I'm one of the lucky ones. Neither vehicles burn any oil.
Honduras is a tad warm so no real need for an 0W. Mobil 15/40 would last longer and cost less, but the only company making a synthetic 15/40 is Amsoil, unless anyone can think of another and truck oil might not be approved.
Originally Posted By: JorgeSimon
Hi friends i have a lexus is200 iam the second owner to this car i bought the car with 65,000km the previous owner used toyota 10w-40 sythetic oil i got the car and switch the oil to mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic oil. I do only city driving andon weekends some spirited driving also i have change the oil every 10,000km. The thing is that now the car has 92,000km and its been burning oil like about 1/2 quart every 10,000km. Do you guys think i could use a 0w-40 to fix this oil consumption? Thanks
It depends on what is causing the consumption, sometimes moving up a grade helps, sometimes it doesn't. You already have the results with M1 5W30, I'd give M1 0W40 a try now.
Hi friends i have a lexus is200 iam the second owner to this car i bought the car with 65,000km the previous owner used toyota 10w-40 sythetic oil i got the car and switch the oil to mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic oil. I do only city driving andon weekends some spirited driving also i have change the oil every 10,000km. The thing is that now the car has 92,000km and its been burning oil like about 1/2 quart every 10,000km. Do you guys think i could use a 0w-40 to fix this oil consumption? Thanks
It depends on what is causing the consumption, sometimes moving up a grade helps, sometimes it doesn't. You already have the results with M1 5W30, I'd give M1 0W40 a try now.
JHZR2
Staff member
0w40 M1 is a great oil, but a 5w-40 would be fine. I'll venture to guess that a good quality 10w-30 will as well. What does the owners manual recommend for your area? I wouldnt be concerned with that consumption. There is no damage or issue.
I have put SN 0w40 Mobil 1 New Life in my Taxi, very high miles Diesel engine, and as I have said before it has not used any measurable amount of oil this OCI.
I have experienced increased oil consumption before in a high mileage Diesel engine so wouldn't have been shocked if it did use some.
But due to people in here stating that Mobil 1 was being re formulated I thought why not.
Was very happy with the way the engine ran, compared directly to the 10w40 Maxlife.
Maybe the lack of oil use is due to the previous Maxlife?
I checked the oil last weekend and it has still not moved.
Obviously it turned over quicker when cold which is only to be expected when going from a High Mileage 10w40 to a 0w40 I suppose.
Easy to get at local Costco and £30 for 5 litres, for me what is not to like.
Hopefully it works well in your application.
I have experienced increased oil consumption before in a high mileage Diesel engine so wouldn't have been shocked if it did use some.
But due to people in here stating that Mobil 1 was being re formulated I thought why not.
Was very happy with the way the engine ran, compared directly to the 10w40 Maxlife.
Maybe the lack of oil use is due to the previous Maxlife?
I checked the oil last weekend and it has still not moved.
Obviously it turned over quicker when cold which is only to be expected when going from a High Mileage 10w40 to a 0w40 I suppose.
Easy to get at local Costco and £30 for 5 litres, for me what is not to like.
Hopefully it works well in your application.
The Toyota 10w40 was not synthetic, it was conventional. Think the PO was using thick oil to mask an oil consumption problem. Many times why people get rid of cars. Now you've switched over to a full syn and noticing oil consumption. Its partly because of switching to a full syn for the first time, but mainly exposing the existing oil consumption problem. Hopefully its just engine cleanliness. Toyota engines have issues with deposits if they are not properly maintained. People will say they do, but you never really know. Toyotas that burn oil 80% of time its not changing the oil on time which leads to piston hole/ring clogging deposits. In some cases burnt valve seals.
Lessening the problem using oil that doesn't flow as well should be a last resort. You should try cleaning adds, see if that helps. Over time the M1 will clean things up, but you may need more than oil can do. Thats my experiences with oil burning Toyotas. The hardened deposits around the rings and pistons heed help.
Lessening the problem using oil that doesn't flow as well should be a last resort. You should try cleaning adds, see if that helps. Over time the M1 will clean things up, but you may need more than oil can do. Thats my experiences with oil burning Toyotas. The hardened deposits around the rings and pistons heed help.
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
The Toyota 10w40 was not synthetic, it was conventional. Think the PO was using thick oil to mask an oil consumption problem. Many times why people get rid of cars. Now you've switched over to a full syn and noticing oil consumption. Its partly because of switching to a full syn for the first time, but mainly exposing the existing oil consumption problem. Hopefully its just engine cleanliness. Toyota engines have issues with deposits if they are not properly maintained. People will say they do, but you never really know. Toyotas that burn oil 80% of time its not changing the oil on time which leads to piston hole/ring clogging deposits. In some cases burnt valve seals.
Lessening the problem using oil that doesn't flow as well should be a last resort. You should try cleaning adds, see if that helps. Over time the M1 will clean things up, but you may need more than oil can do. Thats my experiences with oil burning Toyotas. The hardened deposits around the rings and pistons heed help.
How do you know the Toyota 10w40 was conventional?
Different markets have different oils, even if the names are the same or similar.
1/2 quart in 6k miles doesn't indicate a problem.
Mobil don't spec a -w30 at temps greater than 10oC so the fact the car is being used in a country were temps are probably hotter most of the time would easily explain the slight oil usage.
And using a 0w40 oil is not just about low temperatures, it is about using the best oil you can at reasonable cost, so not sure why Skyship thinks the oil selection is incorrect in any way.
This thread will slowly edge towards a thick thin argument in all likelyhood.
OP, run 0w40 Mobil 1 and be happy that you are using a good quality oil.
I would only use a 5w30 in colder temperatures.
The Toyota 10w40 was not synthetic, it was conventional. Think the PO was using thick oil to mask an oil consumption problem. Many times why people get rid of cars. Now you've switched over to a full syn and noticing oil consumption. Its partly because of switching to a full syn for the first time, but mainly exposing the existing oil consumption problem. Hopefully its just engine cleanliness. Toyota engines have issues with deposits if they are not properly maintained. People will say they do, but you never really know. Toyotas that burn oil 80% of time its not changing the oil on time which leads to piston hole/ring clogging deposits. In some cases burnt valve seals.
Lessening the problem using oil that doesn't flow as well should be a last resort. You should try cleaning adds, see if that helps. Over time the M1 will clean things up, but you may need more than oil can do. Thats my experiences with oil burning Toyotas. The hardened deposits around the rings and pistons heed help.
How do you know the Toyota 10w40 was conventional?
Different markets have different oils, even if the names are the same or similar.
1/2 quart in 6k miles doesn't indicate a problem.
Mobil don't spec a -w30 at temps greater than 10oC so the fact the car is being used in a country were temps are probably hotter most of the time would easily explain the slight oil usage.
And using a 0w40 oil is not just about low temperatures, it is about using the best oil you can at reasonable cost, so not sure why Skyship thinks the oil selection is incorrect in any way.
This thread will slowly edge towards a thick thin argument in all likelyhood.
OP, run 0w40 Mobil 1 and be happy that you are using a good quality oil.
I would only use a 5w30 in colder temperatures.
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2006
- Messages
- 29,558
Stick with the 40 weight. Lots of good choices. Mobil 1 10W40HM is a great oil if it`s available where you live.
Its a surprise to me that ANYONE thinks burning a 1/2 qt of oil in 6500 miles is a problem.
In the 1960's, a car down a qt at oil change time- 3000 miles - was considered to not burn "any oil at all" since no makeup oil was needed.
Oil consumption has dropped since that time but.....
our 1987 commuter escort burned a qt in 10,000 miles its entire 250,000 mile life
our 1994 commuter Escort burned a qt every 4,000 miles its entire 300,000 mile life
My severely over worked 3.1 litre APV tow vehicle burned a qt every 4,000 miles for its entire 300,000 mile life
All the above engines were running as well at the end as they ever did.
Our Sienna and Corolla hardly go down at all in 10,000 miles, it seems hard to imagine that the upper cylinder can be lubricated at all..... not that I am worrying about it.
In the 1960's, a car down a qt at oil change time- 3000 miles - was considered to not burn "any oil at all" since no makeup oil was needed.
Oil consumption has dropped since that time but.....
our 1987 commuter escort burned a qt in 10,000 miles its entire 250,000 mile life
our 1994 commuter Escort burned a qt every 4,000 miles its entire 300,000 mile life
My severely over worked 3.1 litre APV tow vehicle burned a qt every 4,000 miles for its entire 300,000 mile life
All the above engines were running as well at the end as they ever did.
Our Sienna and Corolla hardly go down at all in 10,000 miles, it seems hard to imagine that the upper cylinder can be lubricated at all..... not that I am worrying about it.
Originally Posted By: bigjl
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
The Toyota 10w40 was not synthetic, it was conventional. Think the PO was using thick oil to mask an oil consumption problem. Many times why people get rid of cars. Now you've switched over to a full syn and noticing oil consumption. Its partly because of switching to a full syn for the first time, but mainly exposing the existing oil consumption problem. Hopefully its just engine cleanliness. Toyota engines have issues with deposits if they are not properly maintained. People will say they do, but you never really know. Toyotas that burn oil 80% of time its not changing the oil on time which leads to piston hole/ring clogging deposits. In some cases burnt valve seals.
Lessening the problem using oil that doesn't flow as well should be a last resort. You should try cleaning adds, see if that helps. Over time the M1 will clean things up, but you may need more than oil can do. Thats my experiences with oil burning Toyotas. The hardened deposits around the rings and pistons heed help.
How do you know the Toyota 10w40 was conventional?
Different markets have different oils, even if the names are the same or similar.
1/2 quart in 6k miles doesn't indicate a problem.
Mobil don't spec a -w30 at temps greater than 10oC so the fact the car is being used in a country were temps are probably hotter most of the time would easily explain the slight oil usage.
And using a 0w40 oil is not just about low temperatures, it is about using the best oil you can at reasonable cost, so not sure why Skyship thinks the oil selection is incorrect in any way.
This thread will slowly edge towards a thick thin argument in all likelyhood.
OP, run 0w40 Mobil 1 and be happy that you are using a good quality oil.
I would only use a 5w30 in colder temperatures.
I don't think the oil selection is wrong as such, it's just that there is no need to use expensive 0/40's in a warm country. 10 or 15/40's are just as good and cheaper.
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
The Toyota 10w40 was not synthetic, it was conventional. Think the PO was using thick oil to mask an oil consumption problem. Many times why people get rid of cars. Now you've switched over to a full syn and noticing oil consumption. Its partly because of switching to a full syn for the first time, but mainly exposing the existing oil consumption problem. Hopefully its just engine cleanliness. Toyota engines have issues with deposits if they are not properly maintained. People will say they do, but you never really know. Toyotas that burn oil 80% of time its not changing the oil on time which leads to piston hole/ring clogging deposits. In some cases burnt valve seals.
Lessening the problem using oil that doesn't flow as well should be a last resort. You should try cleaning adds, see if that helps. Over time the M1 will clean things up, but you may need more than oil can do. Thats my experiences with oil burning Toyotas. The hardened deposits around the rings and pistons heed help.
How do you know the Toyota 10w40 was conventional?
Different markets have different oils, even if the names are the same or similar.
1/2 quart in 6k miles doesn't indicate a problem.
Mobil don't spec a -w30 at temps greater than 10oC so the fact the car is being used in a country were temps are probably hotter most of the time would easily explain the slight oil usage.
And using a 0w40 oil is not just about low temperatures, it is about using the best oil you can at reasonable cost, so not sure why Skyship thinks the oil selection is incorrect in any way.
This thread will slowly edge towards a thick thin argument in all likelyhood.
OP, run 0w40 Mobil 1 and be happy that you are using a good quality oil.
I would only use a 5w30 in colder temperatures.
I don't think the oil selection is wrong as such, it's just that there is no need to use expensive 0/40's in a warm country. 10 or 15/40's are just as good and cheaper.
You do not have a "problem" on hand, just check oil level every 5K!
Keep using what you are using, although M1 0W40 will work just as fine, that is the only oil I recommend to my friends in Middle East for almost all their cars anyway...
Keep using what you are using, although M1 0W40 will work just as fine, that is the only oil I recommend to my friends in Middle East for almost all their cars anyway...
- Status