mazda 3 2012 oil grade choices?

[jc1112]

I am new to this forum and new to my 2012 mazda 3 2.0 skyactiv. it will be due for its first oil change sooner than later as it has 3500 miles. or maybe not. i was wondering if a different grade than the indicated 0w 20 is ok. will a 'thicker' oil such as GC at 0w 30 be too much . i plan on getting a UOA on the FF . I have consumed about 1/3 of a qt so far , lots of short trips and stop and go. mpg is pretty subpar at 23 city and 29 mixed.

thanks
johnc

 

[simple_gifts]

Why buck the mfg recommendation when under warranty?

 

[jc1112]

not sure ? just that FF on mazda seems like water on the UOA s I've seen but i need to do more research! will a different grade void the warranty? if it must be 0w20 which is preferred? I had some superstitions about energy conserving oils from my past vehicles, like a wrx but that was a turbo.

I just want the best for my ride like anyone else but don't want to break the bank.

 

[CATERHAM]

GC 0W-30 is a massively heavier oil (almost a 40wt) than the heaviest OTC 5W-20 let alone a 0W-20.

Stick with the new Idemitsu made OEM Mazda 0W-20. It's a great oil with a very robust anti-wear additive package.

 

[bdcardinal]

Go with 0w20. The Mazda bottled 0w20 is made by Idmetsu and has a high moly content. The Mazda bulk 0w20 is Castrol Edge SPT.

 

[randomhero439]

Pennzoil Platinum 0w-20

 

[HTSS_TR]

For warranty and in winter you should stick with OEM Mazda 0W-20, in summer if you don't feel good with the thin 0W20, you may like to replace 1 quart 0W20 with Mobil 1 0W40.

 

[Kuato]

Definitely stick with the specified oil during warranty.

 

[jc1112]

thanks for the quick responses. i value your opinions and just have
to find a new home for some GC bottles

 

[bourne]

M1 0w20 AFE is widely available. Has a higher than normal HTHS of 2.7 for a 20W. Extra protection. And has excellent cold flow properties for the winters in PA. Thats what I have lined up for the next two oci of our Mazda Skyactiv.

 

[bigjl]

The 2.0 is specced for oils thicker than 0w20, 5w30 Magnatec or Edge C3(low saps) or Mobil 1 0w40.

So it is probably not going to damage anything.

But don't you think it might invalidate your warranty or increase your fuel usage.

I would stick with 0w20 but only full synth I don't believe in putting dino in a new car, semi synth I would consider if I was broke.

But for the extra $10/20 why bother going for an inferior product.

After all you would save more by taking everything out of the boot and driving on an empty stomach than you would by using cheaper oil.

 

[Brent_G]

Run 0w20 if that is what our manual says. I know how you feel about the oil seeming like water(I was worried the first time I poured a xw20 in my vehicles). Ford has spent a ton Testing that oil and while it may feel thin to you, chances are it wont even get to a thick 30 weight with your driving. Their are millions and millions of miles on engines running 20 weights, and it will be fine. Don't overthink somthing many engineers who have studied this agree with. You can bet 20w is cafe driven but it's also been tested to the extreme before ford/Mazda put their name on it.

 

[badtlc]

Find out what your dealer uses. The Mazda bulk 0W-20 is Castrol Edge with SPT. It seems like a fine oil. Here is the data sheet:

http://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/290A74D6AF11D506802579F1004CDCEB/$File/BPXE-8TW9XK.pdf

My dealer does oil changes with this oil for around $30-35 regularly. Given the price of synthetic oils, that seems like a good deal to me. That would be like getting someone to do the labor for $5-10 after you buy the oil and filter.

I have a UOA on my skyactiv 2.0 coming up soon when I hit 7,500 miles. With your driving, though, I'd think you fall into the severe category.

 

[tig1]

First of all, don't waste money on a UOA for FF.
Second, I use 0-20 in my Duratechs which is the same family as your engine. 0-20 works very good in these engines. These engine engineneers have figured this oil stuff out.

 

[badtlc]

Originally Posted By: tig1
First of all, don't waste money on a UOA for FF.
Second, I use 0-20 in my Duratechs which is the same family as your engine. 0-20 works very good in these engines. These engine engineneers have figured this oil stuff out.


Duratechs and Skyactiv-g are not related other than they are both 4 bangers.

 

[DBMaster]

I did not change my FF until 7,500 miles. I replaced it with Mazda 0W-20 GL-5 and an OEM filter. Easiest oil change I have done in many years due to intelligent placement of the filter.

The FF did not even start to darken until the car had nearly 5,000 miles on it. Why waste money and create extra waste by changing it at 3,500?

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: bourne
M1 0w20 AFE is widely available. Has a higher than normal HTHS of 2.7 for a 20W. Extra protection. And has excellent cold flow properties for the winters in PA. Thats what I have lined up for the next two oci of our Mazda Skyactiv.

The Mazda 0W-20 is a much lighter oil than M1 0W-20 on start-up at all temp's due to it's 221 VI vs only 173 for M1. Just take a look at it's KV40 spec' of 35.8cSt vs the much higher 44.8cSt for M1. That translates into an oil that is almost 30% lighter at room temperature and 40% lighter at 32F.

Since the Mazda 0W-20 is the specified oil for your engine, the electronic safety controls (that all modern vehicles now have) are designed around the viscosity characteristics of this oil, consiquently there is no increased high temperature protection provided in running a heavier oil.

The only reasonably priced high VI 0W-20 alternative to the Mazda oil would be the Mobil made Toyota 0W-20.

 

[DBMaster]

I paid $6.56/qt for the Mazda oil by purchasing at least a case. I actually bought 15 quarts since the car takes about 4.5 per OC. The OM says 4.4, but what it actually took to reach the full mark was 4.6. I did not have to add any oil during the initial 7,500 mile FF.

 

[DBMaster]

Still trying to understand why you want to change the FF at 3,500 miles.

 

[coolbird101]

I am still trying to figure out why anyone would run the ff for 7500 miles, with the exception of Honda with there moly inpregnated rings, how is it beneficial to run oil with elavated metal content? Is it the high moly that is needed for proper break in? Will a engine not break in properly without it. Could you just go back with another high moly oil? You could argue this increases cost of ownership by 30.00 and an extra trip to the recycle place, well worth it to me on my 20k or 30 k losing investment.
op - sorry for the thread highjack, I had to ask.
Originally Posted By: DBMaster
Still trying to understand why you want to change the FF at 3,500 miles.