Honda belt tensioner problem?

[The Critic]

Was at the boss's house doing a 110k service on their 2004 Accord 2.4.

As part of the service, I replaced the serpentine belt with a new Bando belt.

At cold start-up, I heard some light belt squeal and saw the tensioner moving up and down about 1mm. The tensioner does swing smoothly and does not make any noise.

After the belt was removed, i grabbed the tensioner pulley and noticed that it had some play, side-to-side, if I tried to rock it back-and-forth.

Once the new belt was installed, the belt drive is silent and the tensioner no longer moves up and down excessively at idle.

Does the tensioner still need to be replaced? My thought was yes, since there is still some play on the idler pulley bearing, and perhaps the new belt (less stretched) is masking the problem for now.

 

[ls1mike]

Not sure what Honda recommends, but I do belive GM recommends replacing the tensioner. Every time I replace a belt I replace the associated tensioner.

 

[gonefishing]

Where is the tension indicator at? Check out this website for information on this: http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=22786&page=2

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: gonefishing
Where is the tension indicator at? Check out this website for information on this: http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=22786&page=2


Tensioner indicator was just a hair right of center after the belt replacement.

 

[Chris Meutsch]

I've been wondering this same thing as I come up on 200k within 2 months. Honda has a built-in indicator as you say that's visible. The factory manual procedure is to look at it while it's running. If it's not within that raised block indicator it needs to be replaced. So far, mine is still OK. I do get very light chatter when the A/C kicks on when it's cold out at idle.
Belt will for sure get replaced at 200k, just don't know about the tensioner yet.

 

[gogozy]

I don't think there is a recommended service interval for tensioner. I change the belt on the TSX recently and did not notice much play around the tensioner. however I did read from a few member, that tensioner may be bad if the indicator pointer change location after engine start.

 

[KrisZ]

I had to change the tensioner pulley, as the bearing was shot. however it took some research to find the exact size because all you could get was the tensioner with the pulley. That's probably the case in most situations, and I can't see how a spring operated tensioner can all of the sudden go bad.

 

[The Critic]

I went to NAPA and checked out the Gates tensioner they had in stock. There was barely any play. On a scale of 1 to 5, the new one was a 1. The one on the boss's Accord was probably a 3.

I went ahead and ordered a new one from an online Honda parts store - $68 shipped, which isn't much more than the Gates tensioner from R/A.

I'll report back once I get the tensioner installed, but that wont be for a few weeks. The boss did report some rattle from the car when the A/C was on, but I didn't hear any after the new belt was installed - though it's likely that the new belt is masking the weak tensioner for now.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: Chris Meutsch
I've been wondering this same thing as I come up on 200k within 2 months. Honda has a built-in indicator as you say that's visible. The factory manual procedure is to look at it while it's running. If it's not within that raised block indicator it needs to be replaced. So far, mine is still OK. I do get very light chatter when the A/C kicks on when it's cold out at idle.
Belt will for sure get replaced at 200k, just don't know about the tensioner yet.

It's likely that your tensioner is bad, because when the A/C kicks on the load on the accessory drive system is increased significantly. With that many miles, the spring inside the tensioner is getting weak, and is probably not capable of providing sufficient tension on the belt when you increase the load significantly (i.e. A/C on).

Originally Posted By: KrisZ
I had to change the tensioner pulley, as the bearing was shot. however it took some research to find the exact size because all you could get was the tensioner with the pulley. That's probably the case in most situations, and I can't see how a spring operated tensioner can all of the sudden go bad.


Yeah, people often replace just the pulley, but the springs do get weak after a while. The pulley is $17, while the tensioner is $68, may as well spend the extra money and replace the whole thing. This car does have almost 115k.

 

[KrisZ]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
Yeah, people often replace just the pulley, but the springs do get weak after a while. The pulley is $17, while the tensioner is $68, may as well spend the extra money and replace the whole thing. This car does have almost 115k.


Since you saw it jumping slightly with the old belt, changing the whole thing was probably a good idea. In my case the tensioner was behaving normally and only the pulley was making squeaking noises during cold or damp weather.

 

[zzyzzx]

Originally Posted By: KrisZ
I can't see how a spring operated tensioner can all of the sudden go bad.



The spring can go bad. I'm thinking that rust can kill it off easily enough (as in making the spring break).

 

[BrianWC]

Hey Mike you asked about serp belt on my Fit, which I never replaced, but DID do on the V's 2.4. It started squeeling well south of 100k. Dead easy and quick job. Forgot about it till I read this thread. Bound to be the same on the accord...

 

[The Critic]

Just did the Accord's tensioner today. There was already some slight edge wear on one part of the belt after only 900 miles, not sure why. I cannot imagine that the belt would've even lasted 900 miles if I was one groove off.

The tensioner pulley on the new auto-tensioner had less play, but I figured that replacing the entire assembly is a good idea since: 1) there was noise at cold start-up with the old belt, 2) a history of tensioner pulley failures on this engine family, 3) previous complaint about a rattle noise when the A/C compressor is engaged (could not duplicate). This way, I can do the job once and hopefully not have the big boss call me when the tensioner pulley fails a year from now.

Here are some tips for those who plan to do this job (buster, onion): If you plan to do this job, be advised that there are two bolts on each side of the tensioner in addition to the bolt in the center of tensioner. The bolt on the left side of the tensioner, which is nearest the firewall, is very difficult to access. The best way to access this bolt is to use a short fine-tooth 3/8" drive ratchet, an universal joint and a deep 12mm socket. The torque spec for all of the 12mm bolts (3 on tensioner, 2 on p/s pump) is 16 ft-lbs, so please do not go super-tight; it would be a very bad day if you broke or rounded-off any of these bolts due to the limited access.

Also, the genuine Honda auto-tensioner for the US-built cars is $68, while the one for Japan-built cars is about $100. What's the difference? The aftermarket says that one tensioner works for all Honda 2.4L engines, regardless of where they were built. Litens makes the OE tensioner on this car.

 

[VicVinegar]

Different belt, but when I was soliciting some offers for a timing belt service I had a Honda service writer tell me that I don't need to replace the tensioner because it isn't hydraulic. Then he did not include the tensioner in the quote (email) even though I had requested it. I found the advice a bit odd and also odd that they did not seize an opportunity for an up sell regardless if it was needed or not.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: VicVinegar
Different belt, but when I was soliciting some offers for a timing belt service I had a Honda service writer tell me that I don't need to replace the tensioner because it isn't hydraulic. Then he did not include the tensioner in the quote (email) even though I had requested it. I found the advice a bit odd and also odd that they did not seize an opportunity for an up sell regardless if it was needed or not.


I think the consumer watchdog groups have the entire auto repair industry on such leashes that most shops (especially dealers) are hesitant to sell anything more than the bare minimum without seeing the car.