Transmission Additive
- Thread starter Lubener
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check out the line of Lubegard products.
Seafoam Trans Tune Up?
Viscocity wise... Lucas Transmission Additive.
Best save the money for the rebuild IMHO, but one of these should help temporarily.
Viscocity wise... Lucas Transmission Additive.
Best save the money for the rebuild IMHO, but one of these should help temporarily.
Originally Posted By: Lubener
What is a good auto transmission additive to help my old Dodge(A413) shift better in cold temperatures? I suspect the internal valve body seals because the trans shifts great after about five minutes of operation.
Read the handbook as it will probably say DO NOT USE ADDITIVES. From the sound of things you need to clean out the old fluid and filter screen. If its bad when drained then do the job twice with a weeks driving between each fluid change as only half the fluid can be drained in one go with a typical box. The quicker method is a tranny flush, but count your fingers and make sure they use the correct cleaning fluid as there are a lot of con artists that rent a tranny flush machine. It can be better if done correctly.
The only approved box fluid additive I can think of is a Lubri guard one that was approved by ZF, BUT only for noise reduction in old boxes after the fluid had been replaced and not before. It makes no difference to shift quality or box life, just the noise level. We used fine sawdust in the old days.
What is a good auto transmission additive to help my old Dodge(A413) shift better in cold temperatures? I suspect the internal valve body seals because the trans shifts great after about five minutes of operation.
Read the handbook as it will probably say DO NOT USE ADDITIVES. From the sound of things you need to clean out the old fluid and filter screen. If its bad when drained then do the job twice with a weeks driving between each fluid change as only half the fluid can be drained in one go with a typical box. The quicker method is a tranny flush, but count your fingers and make sure they use the correct cleaning fluid as there are a lot of con artists that rent a tranny flush machine. It can be better if done correctly.
The only approved box fluid additive I can think of is a Lubri guard one that was approved by ZF, BUT only for noise reduction in old boxes after the fluid had been replaced and not before. It makes no difference to shift quality or box life, just the noise level. We used fine sawdust in the old days.
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Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
check out the line of Lubegard products.
+1 Great products recommended by transmission re-builders as well. I think your unit calls for Lubegard Red, you can confirm that on their website, or shoot them an email and they will respond to it.
check out the line of Lubegard products.
+1 Great products recommended by transmission re-builders as well. I think your unit calls for Lubegard Red, you can confirm that on their website, or shoot them an email and they will respond to it.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
check out the line of Lubegard products.
+1 Great products recommended by transmission re-builders as well. I think your unit calls for Lubegard Red, you can confirm that on their website, or shoot them an email and they will respond to it.
The only trans additive I have ever seen specifically recommended BY NAME in a manufacturer's TSB.
Hear that, Skyship? Manufacturer recommended!
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
check out the line of Lubegard products.
+1 Great products recommended by transmission re-builders as well. I think your unit calls for Lubegard Red, you can confirm that on their website, or shoot them an email and they will respond to it.
The only trans additive I have ever seen specifically recommended BY NAME in a manufacturer's TSB.
Hear that, Skyship? Manufacturer recommended!
I should have added that once you have ruled out contaminated tranny fluid as the cause or even a low fluid level then start looking for a recon box because repairs are not too economical for an auto box. Once you are in the final terminal phase of a box life then you have nothing to loose by trying a snake oil additive.
I am very anti additive because 90% of folks using them either do not have a problem or just need to use a different fluid or change procedure. 9% of the other users make things worse not better, BUT there is always a 1% of terminal cases where there is nothing to loose, although often nothing to gain by trying a fluid additive, preferably from a major engine oil or fluid company rather than some back street bottle shop.
I am very anti additive because 90% of folks using them either do not have a problem or just need to use a different fluid or change procedure. 9% of the other users make things worse not better, BUT there is always a 1% of terminal cases where there is nothing to loose, although often nothing to gain by trying a fluid additive, preferably from a major engine oil or fluid company rather than some back street bottle shop.
I assume you've done at ATF change. If not, do that first using the ATF recommended for Chrysler units (not Dexron-Mercon). That alone may make a big difference.
You may be right about the seals, perhaps in the pump. As it gradually warms, it builds pressure better.
If no difference after the ATF change, or in addition to it, try the Lubegard product they recommend for Chrysler trannies. Any number of us have had better results in our transmissions after using it. I even had Mobil 1 ATF in my Ranger for over a year, then when I switched to LG Red, the improvements were amazing. Even if there isn't a change (your results may vary) it isn't expensive.
Be aware of ideologues who will tell you not to use LG products (or any additives of any kind anywhere under any conditions) yet have never used any themselves.
You may be right about the seals, perhaps in the pump. As it gradually warms, it builds pressure better.
If no difference after the ATF change, or in addition to it, try the Lubegard product they recommend for Chrysler trannies. Any number of us have had better results in our transmissions after using it. I even had Mobil 1 ATF in my Ranger for over a year, then when I switched to LG Red, the improvements were amazing. Even if there isn't a change (your results may vary) it isn't expensive.
Be aware of ideologues who will tell you not to use LG products (or any additives of any kind anywhere under any conditions) yet have never used any themselves.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
check out the line of Lubegard products.
+1 Great products recommended by transmission re-builders as well. I think your unit calls for Lubegard Red, you can confirm that on their website, or shoot them an email and they will respond to it.
The only trans additive I have ever seen specifically recommended BY NAME in a manufacturer's TSB.
Hear that, Skyship? Manufacturer recommended!
Was that the Lubri Guard one to reduce noise levels?? About 0.1% of snake oil additives get recommended by manufacturers if you don't count fuel or coolant additives, which do have a number of car or engine manufacturer recommendations.
Some main dealers issue their own recommendations and Liqui Moly has several for their oil flush and fuel injector purge. Both are for use in older cars only and are in the maintenance procedures approvals from Merc and VW.
I don't class them as snake oil additives because they are only used during a clearly defined maintenance procedure. There should be a health warning on all the other bottles saying something like:
1/ Read the maintenance manual and service the engine or tranny correctly.
2/ Try a better oil or fluid.
3/ Seek professional advice and if you get bad news that the problem is terminal or beyond economic repair then investigate a safe snake oil additive from a major oil company.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
check out the line of Lubegard products.
+1 Great products recommended by transmission re-builders as well. I think your unit calls for Lubegard Red, you can confirm that on their website, or shoot them an email and they will respond to it.
The only trans additive I have ever seen specifically recommended BY NAME in a manufacturer's TSB.
Hear that, Skyship? Manufacturer recommended!
Was that the Lubri Guard one to reduce noise levels?? About 0.1% of snake oil additives get recommended by manufacturers if you don't count fuel or coolant additives, which do have a number of car or engine manufacturer recommendations.
Some main dealers issue their own recommendations and Liqui Moly has several for their oil flush and fuel injector purge. Both are for use in older cars only and are in the maintenance procedures approvals from Merc and VW.
I don't class them as snake oil additives because they are only used during a clearly defined maintenance procedure. There should be a health warning on all the other bottles saying something like:
1/ Read the maintenance manual and service the engine or tranny correctly.
2/ Try a better oil or fluid.
3/ Seek professional advice and if you get bad news that the problem is terminal or beyond economic repair then investigate a safe snake oil additive from a major oil company.
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Originally Posted By: skyship
I don't class them as snake oil additives because they are only used during a clearly defined maintenance procedure. There should be a health warning on all the other bottles saying something like:
1/ Read the maintenance manual and service the engine or tranny correctly.
2/ Try a better oil or fluid.
3/ Seek professional advice and if you get bad news that the problem is terminal or beyond economic repair then investigate a safe snake oil additive from a major oil company.
Here we go again. You say " I don't class them as snake oil additives because they are only used during a clearly defined maintenance procedure." Many times these procedures were setup by a car maker who screwed up and needed the help of an additive to bail them out. Some of us here have some additive favorites too, only they differ from yours. Yet you see that as a problem. LG is OEM recommended [I wonder why?] it should fit your criteria as a non snake oil, snake oil.
I don't class them as snake oil additives because they are only used during a clearly defined maintenance procedure. There should be a health warning on all the other bottles saying something like:
1/ Read the maintenance manual and service the engine or tranny correctly.
2/ Try a better oil or fluid.
3/ Seek professional advice and if you get bad news that the problem is terminal or beyond economic repair then investigate a safe snake oil additive from a major oil company.
Here we go again. You say " I don't class them as snake oil additives because they are only used during a clearly defined maintenance procedure." Many times these procedures were setup by a car maker who screwed up and needed the help of an additive to bail them out. Some of us here have some additive favorites too, only they differ from yours. Yet you see that as a problem. LG is OEM recommended [I wonder why?] it should fit your criteria as a non snake oil, snake oil.
OP - we need a little on the maint. history. Is the ATF relatively new? Is it the right ATF. Certainly synthetic ATF (like Amsoil) will work better than regular ATF in both cold and extreme heat situations.
Lubegard products are good, but not needed with synthetic ATF.
People have said that AutoRx did help in cleaning their transmission even when many felt it did not help much in cleaning engines.
Lubegard products are good, but not needed with synthetic ATF.
People have said that AutoRx did help in cleaning their transmission even when many felt it did not help much in cleaning engines.
I would drop the pan and change the filter/screen and do a line off fluid exchange at the same time.
You will get at least 95% of the old fluid changed this way and its easy.
Make sure you use the correct fluid and add the appropriate Lubeguard product to the fluid. ATF+4 uses the black bottle IIRC but check the Lubeguard chart on their site.
Lubeguard is very good stuff. It is an approved additive and certainly not "snake oil".
You will get at least 95% of the old fluid changed this way and its easy.
Make sure you use the correct fluid and add the appropriate Lubeguard product to the fluid. ATF+4 uses the black bottle IIRC but check the Lubeguard chart on their site.
Lubeguard is very good stuff. It is an approved additive and certainly not "snake oil".
Originally Posted By: Trav
I would drop the pan and change the filter/screen and do a line off fluid exchange at the same time.
You will get at least 95% of the old fluid changed this way and its easy.
Make sure you use the correct fluid and add the appropriate Lubeguard product to the fluid. ATF+4 uses the black bottle IIRC but check the Lubeguard chart on their site.
Lubeguard is very good stuff. It is an approved additive and certainly not "snake oil".
Great advise as usual Paul. Use LG Red with ATF+4. HTH
I would drop the pan and change the filter/screen and do a line off fluid exchange at the same time.
You will get at least 95% of the old fluid changed this way and its easy.
Make sure you use the correct fluid and add the appropriate Lubeguard product to the fluid. ATF+4 uses the black bottle IIRC but check the Lubeguard chart on their site.
Lubeguard is very good stuff. It is an approved additive and certainly not "snake oil".
Great advise as usual Paul. Use LG Red with ATF+4. HTH
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
check out the line of Lubegard products.
Another +1. I've used them for years if the vehicle needed it, but I don't use it if nothing is needed. FWIW, I don't use oil additives....unless I absolutely have to. About a month ago, I changed tranny oil in my Aerostar. I drained the Dexron/Mercon and replaced with Mercon V. Soon I had a torque converter shutter when it would shift into overdrive against a heavy wind. One bottle of Lubegard Red stopped the shutter. I can't say how long it will last, especially since the van has 250K miles, but it was worth it.
check out the line of Lubegard products.
Another +1. I've used them for years if the vehicle needed it, but I don't use it if nothing is needed. FWIW, I don't use oil additives....unless I absolutely have to. About a month ago, I changed tranny oil in my Aerostar. I drained the Dexron/Mercon and replaced with Mercon V. Soon I had a torque converter shutter when it would shift into overdrive against a heavy wind. One bottle of Lubegard Red stopped the shutter. I can't say how long it will last, especially since the van has 250K miles, but it was worth it.
JHZR2
Staff member
I'd start with the right lube specs replaced fresh.
There are lots of tiny passages in an AT. I'm not sure that lubeguard, though good stuff, is the right fix. If fresh fluid doesn't fix it, I'd get some trans X and run that per the directions to help clean out the AT.
After doing that, get fresh fluid and lubeguard in and you should be good to go.
Thre has been a lot of success running Trans X on the MB diesel forums, and there are older transmissions with hundreds of thousands of miles on them.
There are lots of tiny passages in an AT. I'm not sure that lubeguard, though good stuff, is the right fix. If fresh fluid doesn't fix it, I'd get some trans X and run that per the directions to help clean out the AT.
After doing that, get fresh fluid and lubeguard in and you should be good to go.
Thre has been a lot of success running Trans X on the MB diesel forums, and there are older transmissions with hundreds of thousands of miles on them.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: skyship
I don't class them as snake oil additives because they are only used during a clearly defined maintenance procedure. There should be a health warning on all the other bottles saying something like:
1/ Read the maintenance manual and service the engine or tranny correctly.
2/ Try a better oil or fluid.
3/ Seek professional advice and if you get bad news that the problem is terminal or beyond economic repair then investigate a safe snake oil additive from a major oil company.
Here we go again. You say " I don't class them as snake oil additives because they are only used during a clearly defined maintenance procedure." Many times these procedures were setup by a car maker who screwed up and needed the help of an additive to bail them out. Some of us here have some additive favorites too, only they differ from yours. Yet you see that as a problem. LG is OEM recommended [I wonder why?] it should fit your criteria as a non snake oil, snake oil.
Which car or transmission manufacturer has approved the use of their products apart from ZF for noise reduction reasons? It is possible some company can't afford to get a new type of transmission fluid approved to deal with a specific problem and found a thickner or some solvent did work for their particular design problem, but just because the LG site says they were approved is not a reason to use their products until you have checked with the car or tranny manufacturer as to what exactly the approval was for. Some of the approvals like the VW dealer one for a Zinc additive have been withdrawn after a new oil was available that did a better job and most approvals are of a very specific nature.
You have to read the full approval to figure out if a snake oil claim is valid, because there are a few companies that make additives for other oil companies and they then claim approvals that don't in fact apply to using the same product with another type of oil as an additive. Some of the coolant and seal conditioners that were used in a commercial sense caused real trouble when sold seperately.
Originally Posted By: skyship
I don't class them as snake oil additives because they are only used during a clearly defined maintenance procedure. There should be a health warning on all the other bottles saying something like:
1/ Read the maintenance manual and service the engine or tranny correctly.
2/ Try a better oil or fluid.
3/ Seek professional advice and if you get bad news that the problem is terminal or beyond economic repair then investigate a safe snake oil additive from a major oil company.
Here we go again. You say " I don't class them as snake oil additives because they are only used during a clearly defined maintenance procedure." Many times these procedures were setup by a car maker who screwed up and needed the help of an additive to bail them out. Some of us here have some additive favorites too, only they differ from yours. Yet you see that as a problem. LG is OEM recommended [I wonder why?] it should fit your criteria as a non snake oil, snake oil.
Which car or transmission manufacturer has approved the use of their products apart from ZF for noise reduction reasons? It is possible some company can't afford to get a new type of transmission fluid approved to deal with a specific problem and found a thickner or some solvent did work for their particular design problem, but just because the LG site says they were approved is not a reason to use their products until you have checked with the car or tranny manufacturer as to what exactly the approval was for. Some of the approvals like the VW dealer one for a Zinc additive have been withdrawn after a new oil was available that did a better job and most approvals are of a very specific nature.
You have to read the full approval to figure out if a snake oil claim is valid, because there are a few companies that make additives for other oil companies and they then claim approvals that don't in fact apply to using the same product with another type of oil as an additive. Some of the coolant and seal conditioners that were used in a commercial sense caused real trouble when sold seperately.
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Thre has been a lot of success running Trans X on the MB diesel forums, and there are older transmissions with hundreds of thousands of miles on them.
Precisely, and this is but one make that found "relief" in an aftermarket product.
Ford had a TSB for a torque converter issue that Lubegard Red was specifically mentioned in as a solution.
There are more examples, but the simple fact is that there IS a place for aftermarket additives in modern vehicles. There are simply too many cars times too many drivers times too many varied uses = millions and millions of variables no single lubricant can support.
You do the math!
Thre has been a lot of success running Trans X on the MB diesel forums, and there are older transmissions with hundreds of thousands of miles on them.
Precisely, and this is but one make that found "relief" in an aftermarket product.
Ford had a TSB for a torque converter issue that Lubegard Red was specifically mentioned in as a solution.
There are more examples, but the simple fact is that there IS a place for aftermarket additives in modern vehicles. There are simply too many cars times too many drivers times too many varied uses = millions and millions of variables no single lubricant can support.
You do the math!
Here's a quote from their site: "LUBEGARD is the ONLY product of its kind Used, Endorsed, Designated & Approved by multiple Car Manufacturers/OEM’s!"
Why not sue them for false advertising?
You said it yourself it is recommended for ZF transmissions for noise reduction, why? Facts not your opinion would be helpful. You yourself recommend certain "snake oils", what's your stance on this one? Transmission re-builders use it all the time, in fact a local shop by me even sells it.
Why not sue them for false advertising?
You said it yourself it is recommended for ZF transmissions for noise reduction, why? Facts not your opinion would be helpful. You yourself recommend certain "snake oils", what's your stance on this one? Transmission re-builders use it all the time, in fact a local shop by me even sells it.
His stance is quite flexible, as we have seen.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
His stance is quite flexible, as we have seen.
For sure!
His stance is quite flexible, as we have seen.
For sure!
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