My head is spinning! What additive should I be using in my 2000 7.3 PSD ? I tow everyday with it. The motor has 99k miles on it and runs great. The previous owner gave me a big jug of diesel kleen cetane booster. Is this all it needs? I am not trying to fix any problem with fuel additive I just want this engine to last a long time! Per recipts this truck has run on wix filters and rotella 15w-40 its whole life. The truck sat alot because of the previous owners used it to tow racecars on occation. I am now using it everyday for daily driver and to tow my lawncare trailer. Any advice would be appreciated!
New to diesels- what fuel additive to use?
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www.Amsoil.com I've been using Amsoils diesel additive for 11 years in my Dodge/Cummin and a New Holland tractor. I guess it does all it says it does
.
Gotta have faith in some company's and products. http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/adf.aspx
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Gotta have faith in some company's and products. http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/adf.aspx
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you don't have the same issues with diesels as with carbed gas engines. You may have two issues: Dirty injectors and bacteria dirt in tanks and fuel delivery system.
So perhaps some kind of injector cleaner once in a while?
Other than that, keep the tank full, add some water removing and microbe additive once in a while.
Octane boost other snake oils? Hey, its a diesel, it will burn when injected.
So perhaps some kind of injector cleaner once in a while?
Other than that, keep the tank full, add some water removing and microbe additive once in a while.
Octane boost other snake oils? Hey, its a diesel, it will burn when injected.
Probably none, unless you don't use your engine for long periods, then you need some biocide to stop bugs growing in the fuel tank. Obviously if it gets real cold in winter you might need some anti wax additive if you are not using a good quality diesel supplier. You should check with your fuel station what the gel point is of their winter fuel, as there are differences in different areas and between fuel suppliers and you should know that figure in case there is a cold snap and you need to use some additive.
Unfortuntely all the snake oil fuel additives don't help prevent injectors wearing out or getting damaged. The big failures are normally related to lack of use causing corroded tips or poor quality fuel filters.
Some injector problems caused by bad fuel can be helped with stronger additives that are fed directly into the fuel line rather than added to the fuel, but those problems are rare. Be very careful with fuel system cleaners as I can remember quite a few breakdowns caused by using them, because if the fuel tank is dirty they can block the fuel filter. Dirty fuel tanks need cleaning and using additives is not a good idea.
Rotella is a good oil, but see if your engine is approved for a 5/40 as a 15/40 is not good in winter.
Unfortuntely all the snake oil fuel additives don't help prevent injectors wearing out or getting damaged. The big failures are normally related to lack of use causing corroded tips or poor quality fuel filters.
Some injector problems caused by bad fuel can be helped with stronger additives that are fed directly into the fuel line rather than added to the fuel, but those problems are rare. Be very careful with fuel system cleaners as I can remember quite a few breakdowns caused by using them, because if the fuel tank is dirty they can block the fuel filter. Dirty fuel tanks need cleaning and using additives is not a good idea.
Rotella is a good oil, but see if your engine is approved for a 5/40 as a 15/40 is not good in winter.
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You should go on the forums for your engine to see if the injector pump is mechanic or electronic and needs the lubrication that was in the old diesel, that may or may not be in the ULSD. The test I have done some reading on is the HFRR.
As a result I use 1 oz to 1 gallon of Walmart TC3 2 cycle oil. The VP44 in my engine really needs the lubrication.
MMO actually made things worse not better for the HFRR test. So forget using it.
If your injector pump is not over picky about lubrication, then I would choose a diesel additive once and awhile, but something made to be a diesel additive. I only use TC3 oil as its costly to add an additive to every tank.
Google the HFRR test.
As a result I use 1 oz to 1 gallon of Walmart TC3 2 cycle oil. The VP44 in my engine really needs the lubrication.
MMO actually made things worse not better for the HFRR test. So forget using it.
If your injector pump is not over picky about lubrication, then I would choose a diesel additive once and awhile, but something made to be a diesel additive. I only use TC3 oil as its costly to add an additive to every tank.
Google the HFRR test.
Go to a ford dealer and buy thier additive, cheap and effective against carbon buildup, cleans it too
Originally Posted By: Donald
You should go on the forums for your engine to see if the injector pump is mechanic or electronic and needs the lubrication that was in the old diesel, that may or may not be in the ULSD. The test I have done some reading on is the HFRR.
As a result I use 1 oz to 1 gallon of Walmart TC3 2 cycle oil. The VP44 in my engine really needs the lubrication.
MMO actually made things worse not better for the HFRR test. So forget using it.
If your injector pump is not over picky about lubrication, then I would choose a diesel additive once and awhile, but something made to be a diesel additive. I only use TC3 oil as its costly to add an additive to every tank.
Google the HFRR test.
That HFRR test was very well done!
I basically agree with Donald's recommendations but I don't think an additive is necessary very often. The lubricity issue is overstated based on my research. There are incidents of the new lubricity additives not being added to ULSD but they are few and far between and most diesel engines can deal with one tank of bad fuel. Anyway, I balance the risk against the cost and don't add anything on a regular basis to my road truck. In my farm tank, I add the 2-stroke oil because it's pretty cheap to do and easy since I add it when I add fuel. Once in a while, I toss some in the old pickup. Given it's reputation for being vulnerable, if I had a VP44 I might be as concerned as Donald. My DB2 pump isn't that sensitive and at 2k miles per year, nothing is going bad very quickly anyway.
For the most part, the common rail diesels are pretty numb on the lubricity issue. Mechanically injected engines are more sensitive to varying degrees. I think the Power Stroke HUEI engines are pretty numb also but there is debate over that and, not owning one, I haven't studied the issue enough to make a judgment.
Anyway, the risks are higher with certain engines and if the risk justifies the expense of regularly adding something, the 2-stroke oil is an effective and cost effective... as you will see in the test.
You should go on the forums for your engine to see if the injector pump is mechanic or electronic and needs the lubrication that was in the old diesel, that may or may not be in the ULSD. The test I have done some reading on is the HFRR.
As a result I use 1 oz to 1 gallon of Walmart TC3 2 cycle oil. The VP44 in my engine really needs the lubrication.
MMO actually made things worse not better for the HFRR test. So forget using it.
If your injector pump is not over picky about lubrication, then I would choose a diesel additive once and awhile, but something made to be a diesel additive. I only use TC3 oil as its costly to add an additive to every tank.
Google the HFRR test.
That HFRR test was very well done!
I basically agree with Donald's recommendations but I don't think an additive is necessary very often. The lubricity issue is overstated based on my research. There are incidents of the new lubricity additives not being added to ULSD but they are few and far between and most diesel engines can deal with one tank of bad fuel. Anyway, I balance the risk against the cost and don't add anything on a regular basis to my road truck. In my farm tank, I add the 2-stroke oil because it's pretty cheap to do and easy since I add it when I add fuel. Once in a while, I toss some in the old pickup. Given it's reputation for being vulnerable, if I had a VP44 I might be as concerned as Donald. My DB2 pump isn't that sensitive and at 2k miles per year, nothing is going bad very quickly anyway.
For the most part, the common rail diesels are pretty numb on the lubricity issue. Mechanically injected engines are more sensitive to varying degrees. I think the Power Stroke HUEI engines are pretty numb also but there is debate over that and, not owning one, I haven't studied the issue enough to make a judgment.
Anyway, the risks are higher with certain engines and if the risk justifies the expense of regularly adding something, the 2-stroke oil is an effective and cost effective... as you will see in the test.
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You don't need an additive unless you have a specific problem to solve.
I've been putting tc-w3 2 stroke oil,2 ounces per 5 gallons and xylene in the same ratio for my forklift. It starts noticeably quicker and the injection pump isn't as noisy
I am an advocate for adding fuel conditioner to every gallon of fuel.
The benefits are;
improving cetane
lubricity
moisture control
cold weather anti-gel (if applicable)
protects against corrosion
maximizes fuel economy
I have 9 different diesel engines, and every gallon of fuel is conditioned, without one injector failure or injection pump failure, I've never even had a fuel filter issue, they just get changed at whatever interval the manufacturer calls for.
I use the John Deere diesel fuel conditioner, its bottled by Stanadyne for them.
Stanadyne is the most trusted name in the diesel injection market.
The benefits are;
improving cetane
lubricity
moisture control
cold weather anti-gel (if applicable)
protects against corrosion
maximizes fuel economy
I have 9 different diesel engines, and every gallon of fuel is conditioned, without one injector failure or injection pump failure, I've never even had a fuel filter issue, they just get changed at whatever interval the manufacturer calls for.
I use the John Deere diesel fuel conditioner, its bottled by Stanadyne for them.
Stanadyne is the most trusted name in the diesel injection market.
Originally Posted By: Roadkingnc
Go to a ford dealer and buy thier additive, cheap and effective against carbon buildup, cleans it too
Good point, that if you are thinking of using a fuel additive then go to your dealer to see what they have recommended for your type of engine, at least that way you can avoid the snake oils.
It is worth checking on what the spec is of the fuel you are using, as good fuel companies do include additives in their fuel and there is less need to be concerned.
We got some very cold weather last year that caused me some concern over the gel point of the diesel fuel as it is only minus 15C in the UK, but luckily it is minus 23C in Germany.
Incidentally no fuel additive has even been demonstrated to stop carbon build up inside the cylinders, they might help keep the fuel system and injectors clean, but the carbon deposits that can result from too much time at idle can not be removed by fuel or oil additives. The best way of cleaning carbon out other than doing something expensive like removing the head is several hours at max continuous power. Luckily I live in Germany and that is possible on a Sunday autobahn trip and it works wonders in terms of cleaning out a diesel that is subject to too much in town use.
If you use Wynns or STP additives this clip is interesting:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VG3j0g88kXs
Go to a ford dealer and buy thier additive, cheap and effective against carbon buildup, cleans it too
Good point, that if you are thinking of using a fuel additive then go to your dealer to see what they have recommended for your type of engine, at least that way you can avoid the snake oils.
It is worth checking on what the spec is of the fuel you are using, as good fuel companies do include additives in their fuel and there is less need to be concerned.
We got some very cold weather last year that caused me some concern over the gel point of the diesel fuel as it is only minus 15C in the UK, but luckily it is minus 23C in Germany.
Incidentally no fuel additive has even been demonstrated to stop carbon build up inside the cylinders, they might help keep the fuel system and injectors clean, but the carbon deposits that can result from too much time at idle can not be removed by fuel or oil additives. The best way of cleaning carbon out other than doing something expensive like removing the head is several hours at max continuous power. Luckily I live in Germany and that is possible on a Sunday autobahn trip and it works wonders in terms of cleaning out a diesel that is subject to too much in town use.
If you use Wynns or STP additives this clip is interesting:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VG3j0g88kXs
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Hi,
Boaz - I have run many types of diesel engine and many different applications. In that time I have covered many millions of kms and many many 000's of hours
I have never systematically used any additives
An injector cleaner has been tried from time to time!
Simply and without a mandated need they are not required!
Boaz - I have run many types of diesel engine and many different applications. In that time I have covered many millions of kms and many many 000's of hours
I have never systematically used any additives
An injector cleaner has been tried from time to time!
Simply and without a mandated need they are not required!
Just be aware that some additives are reactive in the crankcase.
I've found Redline RL2 benign in multiple UOA's, but BP market a diesel additive here named BP Diselgo that immediately showed up with elevated lead, tin and copper levels.
I've found Redline RL2 benign in multiple UOA's, but BP market a diesel additive here named BP Diselgo that immediately showed up with elevated lead, tin and copper levels.
I started using 2 cycle tcw-3 oil today. I had a full tank 38 gallons and put 32 oz in today. Time will tell what it does or not do to fuel mileage. Looking forward to the results!
Not sure with a 7.3 HEUI system that you really need a routine injector cleaner-but Diesel Kleen silver bottle is good stuff, and I do use it on my CR Cummins regularly. The best thing you can do is buy your fuel from a reputable station that goes through a lot of fuel, and keep your tank full, especially in winter, to cut down on condensation-and the fungus buildup that seems to occur with it (the black crud grows at the boundary between the fuel and water in the tank).
The only thing id would use is a lubricity additive,now whether a 7.3 needs it? i don't know I'm not a ford guy,but the older GM 6.5s and some fords ag tractors benefited from it.
Any mechanical injector or injector pump can benefit from a lubricity additive.
Diesel Kleen did not work for us at all our last IP that needed rebuilt they said it was loaded with varnish and gunk inside,Stanadyne Performance Formula is what i recommend.
Any mechanical injector or injector pump can benefit from a lubricity additive.
Diesel Kleen did not work for us at all our last IP that needed rebuilt they said it was loaded with varnish and gunk inside,Stanadyne Performance Formula is what i recommend.
I have a 1995 F250 PSD with 80K miles on it. My brother also had a 1995 F350 PSD that he put at least 200K mile on before he swapped it for a 2010 F450. We would both recommend that you continue using the white bottle Diesel Kleen (I stick with it because it is good for winter use, also), change your oil regularly (5K miles or so, unless you have a bypass filter and send off a sample for analysis with each change), keep your fuel filter changed (I do mine every other oil change), and drain the fuel filter bowl once in awhile.
The oil that has been used is fine. If you'd like to save a few dollars every oil change, I've had good luck with Tractor Supply's Traveler 15W-40, with oil analysis to back up it's quality. Last I checked, they had a 5-gallon bucket on sale for $49.99.
I have also heard very good things about Stanadyne Performance formula. I might have to check that one out. Not as easy to find as Diesel Kleen in my area, but it's available.
Otherwise, as stated in a previous reply, buy your diesel at a high-volume station.
The oil that has been used is fine. If you'd like to save a few dollars every oil change, I've had good luck with Tractor Supply's Traveler 15W-40, with oil analysis to back up it's quality. Last I checked, they had a 5-gallon bucket on sale for $49.99.
I have also heard very good things about Stanadyne Performance formula. I might have to check that one out. Not as easy to find as Diesel Kleen in my area, but it's available.
Otherwise, as stated in a previous reply, buy your diesel at a high-volume station.
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Originally Posted By: roadrunner1
I am an advocate for adding fuel conditioner to every gallon of fuel.
The benefits are;
improving cetane
lubricity
moisture control
cold weather anti-gel (if applicable)
protects against corrosion
maximizes fuel economy
I have 9 different diesel engines, and every gallon of fuel is conditioned, without one injector failure or injection pump failure, I've never even had a fuel filter issue, they just get changed at whatever interval the manufacturer calls for.
I use the John Deere diesel fuel conditioner, its bottled by Stanadyne for them.
Stanadyne is the most trusted name in the diesel injection market.
The reason you have no fuel related issues is because you change at the OEM intervals. Those are rated very early especially on ag equipment because many farmers are lazy, don't think its important, wait till they're plugged or just wait until the end of the season.
On the topic of additives I'm a believer in none. A good fuel supplier is more important than any additive. If you get good clean fuel to start with you will be fine. With our current supplier the only fuel related issue we have had other than LB7 injectors which are not related, is the issue I'm fixing on a skid steer now, operators lost the cap and drove around bedding cattle for god knows how many days before someone else noticed it and said something. Tank full of corn fodder and sawdust now.
Additives cost far too much money for what they do in my opinion. If a component is going to fail it will fail. The older systems may not be designed for the newer fuel, but they do not operate under the same pressures and tolerances the new systems run at, thus they can withstand much more wear before an issue arises.
Its another thing you have to weigh your options. Throw money away every day, or gamble that you may or may not have a big repair bill.
I am an advocate for adding fuel conditioner to every gallon of fuel.
The benefits are;
improving cetane
lubricity
moisture control
cold weather anti-gel (if applicable)
protects against corrosion
maximizes fuel economy
I have 9 different diesel engines, and every gallon of fuel is conditioned, without one injector failure or injection pump failure, I've never even had a fuel filter issue, they just get changed at whatever interval the manufacturer calls for.
I use the John Deere diesel fuel conditioner, its bottled by Stanadyne for them.
Stanadyne is the most trusted name in the diesel injection market.
The reason you have no fuel related issues is because you change at the OEM intervals. Those are rated very early especially on ag equipment because many farmers are lazy, don't think its important, wait till they're plugged or just wait until the end of the season.
On the topic of additives I'm a believer in none. A good fuel supplier is more important than any additive. If you get good clean fuel to start with you will be fine. With our current supplier the only fuel related issue we have had other than LB7 injectors which are not related, is the issue I'm fixing on a skid steer now, operators lost the cap and drove around bedding cattle for god knows how many days before someone else noticed it and said something. Tank full of corn fodder and sawdust now.
Additives cost far too much money for what they do in my opinion. If a component is going to fail it will fail. The older systems may not be designed for the newer fuel, but they do not operate under the same pressures and tolerances the new systems run at, thus they can withstand much more wear before an issue arises.
Its another thing you have to weigh your options. Throw money away every day, or gamble that you may or may not have a big repair bill.
My cat zoom boom gets tc-w3 mixed with toluene in the fuel and so far not a single fuel related issue. I'm also using co-op 0w-40 pure pao oil and thus far winter starting has been easy. I do plug it in and it has an oil pan warmer,block heater and battery blanket heater,so it had better start.
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
Originally Posted By: Donald
You should go on the forums for your engine to see if the injector pump is mechanic or electronic and needs the lubrication that was in the old diesel, that may or may not be in the ULSD. The test I have done some reading on is the HFRR.
As a result I use 1 oz to 1 gallon of Walmart TC3 2 cycle oil. The VP44 in my engine really needs the lubrication.
MMO actually made things worse not better for the HFRR test. So forget using it.
If your injector pump is not over picky about lubrication, then I would choose a diesel additive once and awhile, but something made to be a diesel additive. I only use TC3 oil as its costly to add an additive to every tank.
Google the HFRR test.
For the most part, the common rail diesels are pretty numb on the lubricity issue. Mechanically injected engines are more sensitive to varying degrees. I think the Power Stroke HUEI engines are pretty numb also but there is debate over that and, not owning one, I haven't studied the issue enough to make a judgment.
.
Interesting Jim, as it widely thought in the UK that older mechanical injection are more robust than the more fragile common rail injection systems (note I am only referring to normal cars and vans not heavy goods vehicles).
There have been many failures of high pressure fuel pumps in Fords with previous generation tdci engines, the 2.4 in the Transit and also the 2.0 in the Mondeo.
The biggest issue being when the pump goes the fuel rail and Injectors also need to be changed.
I regularly added 2 stroke oil to my Mondeo and it was noticeably quieter on tickover, and I have added it to my Volvo occasionally and to the Clio.
I remember reading some test results that showed that 2 stroke did indeed improve lubricity, but the best additive at improving it was actually biodiesel!
My reasoning for using it isn't just lubricity but also I think it keeps the top end of the engine cleaner.
I have read lots about 2 stroke use and read an article about Mercedes that added it to the diesel of some vehicles that they were using on an expedition.
I also use Redex fairly regularly but I think the most important thing is to use a decent quality diesel, especially now with the use of ultra low sulphur diesel.
Originally Posted By: Donald
You should go on the forums for your engine to see if the injector pump is mechanic or electronic and needs the lubrication that was in the old diesel, that may or may not be in the ULSD. The test I have done some reading on is the HFRR.
As a result I use 1 oz to 1 gallon of Walmart TC3 2 cycle oil. The VP44 in my engine really needs the lubrication.
MMO actually made things worse not better for the HFRR test. So forget using it.
If your injector pump is not over picky about lubrication, then I would choose a diesel additive once and awhile, but something made to be a diesel additive. I only use TC3 oil as its costly to add an additive to every tank.
Google the HFRR test.
For the most part, the common rail diesels are pretty numb on the lubricity issue. Mechanically injected engines are more sensitive to varying degrees. I think the Power Stroke HUEI engines are pretty numb also but there is debate over that and, not owning one, I haven't studied the issue enough to make a judgment.
.
Interesting Jim, as it widely thought in the UK that older mechanical injection are more robust than the more fragile common rail injection systems (note I am only referring to normal cars and vans not heavy goods vehicles).
There have been many failures of high pressure fuel pumps in Fords with previous generation tdci engines, the 2.4 in the Transit and also the 2.0 in the Mondeo.
The biggest issue being when the pump goes the fuel rail and Injectors also need to be changed.
I regularly added 2 stroke oil to my Mondeo and it was noticeably quieter on tickover, and I have added it to my Volvo occasionally and to the Clio.
I remember reading some test results that showed that 2 stroke did indeed improve lubricity, but the best additive at improving it was actually biodiesel!
My reasoning for using it isn't just lubricity but also I think it keeps the top end of the engine cleaner.
I have read lots about 2 stroke use and read an article about Mercedes that added it to the diesel of some vehicles that they were using on an expedition.
I also use Redex fairly regularly but I think the most important thing is to use a decent quality diesel, especially now with the use of ultra low sulphur diesel.
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