M1 Garand question

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Hi all. I just cleaned my new (to me) M1 and oiled all the parts. According to the CMP instructions, the trigger and sear (which are one unit) should never be lubricated in any way. They mention this at the END of their instructions. Anyways, I put a light coat of oil (very light) on those parts. Should I worry? Take it all apart again and run some brake cleaner over that part? Any advice is appreciated.
 
Dont worry about it. Original cleaning specs took into account battlefield conditions. No oil on the trigger group was to prevent dirt from accumulating in there.
 
+1 ... lube won't hurt if it's used in a clean environment.
 
I'd never be running brake cleaner over gun parts. Oil is fine on everything, as G-MAN said the main reason for omitting it was to prevent debris buildup, and the parts were considered suitable to be run without the oil.

So, really, oiling it is probably fine for a gun you have as a plaything. Dragging it through sand is different.
 
Lube wont hurt as long as your not slinging it in mud, dirt and sand. Also the bolt and all sliding parts should be lubed with grease. It takes time to clean but the action will be butter smooth.
 
Originally Posted By: RiceCake
as G-MAN said the main reason for omitting it was to prevent debris buildup, and the parts were considered suitable to be run without the oil.

In his Book of the Garand, page 202, author Julian Hatcher states that light oil should be applied sparingly to all metal parts that do not come into contact with the ammunition. He does not exclude the the trigger group.

In addition, Hatcher says to apply a bit more oil on these parts:
  • Bolt lugs
  • Bolt guides
  • Cocking cam on bolt
  • Contact surfaces of barrel and operating rod
  • Operating rod guide groove on side of receiver
  • Operating rod spring
  • Cammed surface in hump of operating rod
I used to have a Garand (SA, 1942). One thing I learned was that excessive lubricant may get spat backwards on firing and spot your glasses, so less is better. Especially, oil contact with the wood should be minimized.

Out of thousands of rounds I fired out of that Garand, I don't think I ever had a single misfire or jam. The gun was heavy and clumsy compared to an AR-15, but very reliable.
 
I own a CMP rifle I got second hand. It was one of the re imports from Denmark, a total franken rifle. But a new stock helped it a ton. Mine was a Springfield but had lots of Beretta marked guts and a Danish VAR barrel.

One thing to note is when you shoot it to watch carefully when it comes to commercial ammo. The op rods can be bent by using too hot of a load compared to the original 30 M2 military load.

Outside that, its a great piece of history to own and dead reliable gun. MacArthur reported his troops often used them for a week straight without cleaning or maintaining them during WW2.
 
Great rifle! A little oil will prevent rust so not a bad thing. As was mentioned before, you'll know if you put too much when oil starts spraying on your shooting glasses. I also put a little RIG grease on top of the hammer.

If you have a CMP account, the Greek ammo that has been coming in from time to time is good stuff.

Some Korean surplus ammo is coming in that works okay but be warned that it is corrosive. I was told by the gun shop I bought some from that it was non-corrosive. Not true. After I went back to question them, they admitted that it might be mildly corrosive.
 
Thanks for all the great advice. I used the smallest amount of oil possible, except where the CMP guide said to use grease. There I used gunslick graphite grease. I plan to shoot this thing very little (no good outdoor ranges close by), and never under "field conditions". BTW, according to the reciever's serial number, it looks to be one of the last 400 ever made by the gov't, circa 1957.
 
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The deal with commercial ammo is not that it is too hot from the point of view of chamber pressure . It is gas port pressure .

The Garand was designed around 4895 powder and bullets
Slower powders will produce higher gas port pressure than that for which the Garand was designed for . Same with bullets heavier than 180 grains .

This can be compensated for by using an adjustable " gas plug ) that bleeds off some of the gas .

As far as lubrication , I use grease ( auto parts store lithium wheel bearing grease on all parts subject to high speed friction . Gun oil on the rest of the metal and Bopiled Linseed Oil on the wood .

The exception is the gas piston and cylinder . Those are run dry .

Have you been initiated into the Fraternal Order of the M1 Thumb ?

God bless
Wyr
 
Thanks for the extra info, Wyr. I was thinking of using ball joint grease, but found the tube of gunslick laying around and figured it had "gun" in the name, and should work OK.

I haven't suffered M1 thumb yet, but my dad has his own and just recently learned a painful lesson.
 
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