If it were yours, when would you change the ATF?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Oct 15, 2011
Messages
576
Location
East TN
It's the driven hard turbo, 6 spd automatic in sig. I've got a magnefine and D4 for it. I've been thinking drain and fill, but maybe cooler line flush, or take it to a oil change place machine... Currently at 20K miles, definitely severe. Manual says never change normal, 60K severe. What would you do?
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: 229
Drain and fill at oil changes.


Would your recommendation change if you knew that my OCI was ~4K miles? Normal as per manual is 4.8K miles. Severe is 3K. I use good synthetics.
 
Well, so far the min and max recommendation is about the same as my thinking influenced by a lot of web reading. Let's narrow it down a bit. More recommendations please. I'm convinced that 60K is too long. Stock fluid is SP-IV, which is stupid expensive. Sp-III sucked compared to a good aftermarket like MaxLife.
 
Originally Posted By: LargeCarManX2
Is the Magnafine and Redline ATF already installed?


No. I have them in the bullpen waiting. 12qt of the D4. While I don't mind spending money on her, I also don't really like the idea of dumping not quite used qts of good fluid to get the bad old fluid thats mixed in out (drain and fill), lol! so conflicted...
crazy.gif
 
Last edited:
Is there a pan that can be pulled? If so, you might be able to unbolt (or loosen) the valve-body from underneath and get 80-90% of the old oil out. Also pull the cooling lines and drain those too.

Then do the cooling-line flush. You might be able to see the difference from old-to-new fluid as it pumps out.

Otherwise, I'd just do a cooling-line flush and do yearly fluid analysis w particle count if possible. You need to get a baseline set and after a three or four analysis you'll have your trend going so you can setup your next flush.
 
I've dropped the pan and replaced filter and fluid every 30k on my Jeep (and the one before) and not had an issue.
 
I'm for a complete flush to get a total fill of the Redline D4 ATF. I would think if you do that every 30,000 miles you are fine. Might be fine doing that every 60,000 mile.

First thing I did to my wifes's 2005 Mountaineer when we bought it used with 111,000 miles on it was a complete flush of the auto tranny filling it with D4. I will run nothing else in my automatics and Redline MTL in my manual trannys.
 
Originally Posted By: martinq
Is there a pan that can be pulled? If so, you might be able to unbolt (or loosen) the valve-body from underneath and get 80-90% of the old oil out. Also pull the cooling lines and drain those too.

Then do the cooling-line flush. You might be able to see the difference from old-to-new fluid as it pumps out.

Otherwise, I'd just do a cooling-line flush and do yearly fluid analysis w particle count if possible. You need to get a baseline set and after a three or four analysis you'll have your trend going so you can setup your next flush.


AFAIK, no pan. There's a drain bolt. It has that silly 'yota type weep hole fill gauge. No dipstick. No real filter, it's a rock screen that's only accessible by pulling trans and splitting in half.
 
Originally Posted By: LineArrayNut
AFAIK, no pan. There's a drain bolt. It has that silly 'yota type weep hole fill gauge. No dipstick. No real filter, it's a rock screen that's only accessible by pulling trans and splitting in half.

Well there ya go. Do the cooling-line flush as best you can and put in the filter. Drive it for one tank of gas and then prep two samples for analysis. One from the bottle and one from the pan.

If you are going to do analysis you might want to get a Fumoto drain valve for the tranny as it'll make it much easier & cleaner. While you're at it get one for the engine.

You want to get analysis for viscosity, TAN (or TBN) and particle count. After a year (how much do you drive in a year?) do another analysis and the picture will start to come together. This will allow you to get the best use of the D4 and will also keep you informed if there's anything unusual.
 
It has the aero belly pan, so that's why I say that AFAIK. It's got holes for oil filter and a removable door for engine oil pan bolt. I've got a fumoto on the engine oil pan, makes it whole lot easier. About 18K miles/yr.

I'm liking TallPaul's idea best so far...

Originally Posted By: TallPaul
I'm for a complete flush to get a total fill of the Redline D4 ATF. I would think if you do that every 30,000 miles you are fine.
 
Last edited:
It pains me to go past 30K on trans fluid. I'm sure the trans wouldn't care that much, but in my mind, that's the cutoff for automatics. Mine has 133K and shifts beautifully despite a fair amount of abuse including towing, tire roastings, suddenly gaining traction (probably worse for the diff), and countless 5000 RPM+ shifts.

As good as I am about changing fluid before it gets to 30K miles, the filter is original, and the pan has never been off. I was going to have the filter changed, but the dealer insisted it was not necessary. I think they didn't want to pop the pan off on a trans that isn't leaking, and I didn't want to do it in my driveway, so I guess I can't blame them for avoiding that one. This truck and my old Explorer have both been happy with Mercon V flushes and no other trans maintenance. No trans repairs ever in either vehicle. I sold the Explorer at over 158K miles and it still shifted perfectly.
 
If it were mine, used hard, and I had the materials on hand, I would do it as soon as it's convenient.

A drain plug makes it so easy there's no reason not to at least drain and fill, even if you don't install the filter at the same time. I changed to Mobil 1 in my easily driven Silverado around 36,000, and the original oil was sparkly. In my Vibe (bought used), it looked like motor oil with glitter mixed in at 28,000. If the pans didn't have drain plugs, both would have been a lot worse by the time I got around to dropping the pans by the old ATF bath method.

You have to disconnect or cut cooler lines to install the Magnefine, which is half the work of the flush anyway. You might check the total capacity vs. drain capacity, though. If a drain gets out most of the fluid, you could save the mess of a flush and just do a couple drains together followed by a regular change interval.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top