Recently bought the Golf 2.5L and I beginning to get the feeling this car is a "keeper" and will own till the wheels fall off. Used Castrol Syntec 5w-40 on the last oil change when the car was @ 3k mi. Have enough of this oil for two more oil changes. After that I'm thinking of trying a new oil. From all my research so far I'm leaning towards Motul "Excess 8100." If I were to try this oil, I would take the OCI out to 10k or 1 yr. (Not sure I would w/the Castrol.) Does any have experience w/the Motul oil. Any and all comments would be appreciated. Thanks, Bill.
2012 VW Golf 2.5L Keep using Castrol Syntec or...?
- Thread starter sparky123
- Start date
- Status
JHZR2
Staff member
Need to run anything better than a VW502 oil? Not entirely sure why.
Our 08 VW has shown that TBN retention is low on the low SAPS euro oils meeting "better" specs like VW504/507, at intervals of only 5k.
Id only take OCIs out with a good UOA regimen, regardless of oil. We havent taken ours out to 10k yet, and we have over 40k.
There are routinely good deals on M1 0w-40, which is a great oil, and so if youre looking to DIY, that, GC 0w-30, the 5w-40 you spoke of, and a host of other oils will do fine.
I dont see a reason why this engine would be considered hard on oil, to justify needing something super exotic. Syn 502 oils like the M1 0w-40 are more than good enough, even for 10k mile OCIs (UOA permitting).
Our 08 VW has shown that TBN retention is low on the low SAPS euro oils meeting "better" specs like VW504/507, at intervals of only 5k.
Id only take OCIs out with a good UOA regimen, regardless of oil. We havent taken ours out to 10k yet, and we have over 40k.
There are routinely good deals on M1 0w-40, which is a great oil, and so if youre looking to DIY, that, GC 0w-30, the 5w-40 you spoke of, and a host of other oils will do fine.
I dont see a reason why this engine would be considered hard on oil, to justify needing something super exotic. Syn 502 oils like the M1 0w-40 are more than good enough, even for 10k mile OCIs (UOA permitting).
Castrol 5w40 is "fine," but there are better oils out there. GC is an example, but I run nothing but M1 0w40 in mine, as it "feels" best. These engines are not hard on oil and have a large sump. I dont run out to 10k either, but may here in the next year or so.
The OCI should be based on more than just the engine and oil concerned, it should take into account driver style (Size of right boot and cold start techniques) and the average useage of the car. There is a very big difference between a car used in a city that spends a lot of time stuck in traffic and one that does mostly long highway trips.
5k miles might be a good OCI for city use, but 10K miles might be good for an out of town based car. Once you pick a figure then a UOA with TBN can confirm if it is OK.
The exact oil type won't make a big difference, BUT use a real VW oil and air filter and make sure you choose an oil that is VW approved during the warranty period.
Once out of warranty look at the Castrol, Liqui Moly or Mobil oil finder guides to see what the choices are. Some of the oil finder guides are no good, so just check the major brand sites.
5k miles might be a good OCI for city use, but 10K miles might be good for an out of town based car. Once you pick a figure then a UOA with TBN can confirm if it is OK.
The exact oil type won't make a big difference, BUT use a real VW oil and air filter and make sure you choose an oil that is VW approved during the warranty period.
Once out of warranty look at the Castrol, Liqui Moly or Mobil oil finder guides to see what the choices are. Some of the oil finder guides are no good, so just check the major brand sites.
I haven't given oil so much thought since joining this forum! I guess I haven't reached the point in the circle where "it's good enough." I'm sure Castrol Syntec is plenty good enough but if I were to go 1yr. or 10k miles I'm slightly in doubt if this oil would serve my car the best. A case of Motul, Pennzoil Ultra Euro Formula, Total 9000, etc. is not that more. I'd get my Mann filters (in exchange for the Bosch D+) while buying oil change specials for my other cars. Thanks for your comments.
Very true comment on driving styles and types of distance driven. I mostly drive on the easy but my distance to work is only 5 miles and usually less than 10 min. So I reach water temp but I'm sure the oil temp is not even close. No extreme winter/summer temps either. Perhaps in my case 5k OCI are the best coarse of action?
I would watch the ads for your local chain car parts places - Pep Boys , Advance Auto , Autozone and see what kind of prices are on sale .
I buy Mobil ! 0-40 at Walmart for around $6.50/qut their regular price ,
I buy Mobil ! 0-40 at Walmart for around $6.50/qut their regular price ,
Originally Posted By: sparky123
Very true comment on driving styles and types of distance driven. I mostly drive on the easy but my distance to work is only 5 miles and usually less than 10 min. So I reach water temp but I'm sure the oil temp is not even close. No extreme winter/summer temps either. Perhaps in my case 5k OCI are the best coarse of action?
I would go with Castrol GC 0W30!
Very true comment on driving styles and types of distance driven. I mostly drive on the easy but my distance to work is only 5 miles and usually less than 10 min. So I reach water temp but I'm sure the oil temp is not even close. No extreme winter/summer temps either. Perhaps in my case 5k OCI are the best coarse of action?
I would go with Castrol GC 0W30!
the castrol 5w40 is already a stout oil for the 2.5, already good enough for the 10,000 mile OCI.
2.5L engine is easy on oil! unless you have a heavy foot and do lot of city driving... choices are plenty though (& Motul is very pricey)!
M1 0W40 being my first choice, if you could find GC, T6, TDT or even Castrol's & Pennz 5W-40 on sale, I say go with it...All will fare!
Folks in VW forums have run M1 EP 5W30 & Amsoil 0W30 oils in these engines (out of warranty) with out a problem!
Platinum Filters <--- Awesome Choice!
M1 0W40 being my first choice, if you could find GC, T6, TDT or even Castrol's & Pennz 5W-40 on sale, I say go with it...All will fare!
Folks in VW forums have run M1 EP 5W30 & Amsoil 0W30 oils in these engines (out of warranty) with out a problem!
Platinum Filters <--- Awesome Choice!
Originally Posted By: Ibrahim
Platinum Filters div>
There's no platinum filter for the cartridge filter for that engine.
Platinum Filters div>
There's no platinum filter for the cartridge filter for that engine.
Getting a VW (Mann) oil filter can, in some instances, be the cheapest option. Check your local dealers site. Many offer "online" pricing, saving you 10% or 20%. And if you're on their mailing list, VW sends out a bunch of coupons during the year, sometimes for discounts on parts, so it's a perfect time to stock up. I have looked for Mann filters elsewhere, but since I only buy a few at a time, and I have to pay shipping, the cost isn't worth it. Bottom line - Stick with Mann/VW filters and a 502.00 oil.
EDIT - You should be getting the "carefree maintenance" on your 2012 Golf. Use that. A paper trail is your best friend when dealing with VAG and warranty issues. Ask anyone who had a 1998-2004 1.8T Passat
EDIT - You should be getting the "carefree maintenance" on your 2012 Golf. Use that. A paper trail is your best friend when dealing with VAG and warranty issues. Ask anyone who had a 1998-2004 1.8T Passat
Last edited:
Thanks for the replies! My 1 yr. service will be coming up in April next yr. I took my Golf to a fantastic independent shop for the first oil change @ 3k mi. I brought my own oil and filter and they charged me $40 for the labour. They were super professional and took the proper time on the car. Spoke w/the tech doing the work and felt really good w/the quality of work. I'm strongly considering using this same shop for my 10k/1yr. service even though I have to pay for it. I'm really not sure about the dealer quality of work. I will have records so warranty should not be an issue. I get my Mann filters from Advance Auto when they do their "oil change specials" w/the Bosch Distance + filters. They substitue the Mann 719 6x filter for the Bosch D+. (Very nice of them!) I may have a chat w/this independent shop regarding other possible oil choices., (They use bulk Castrol oil, assuming Edge, w/their oil changes.) This is really such a nice little car! Not the greatest gas mileage but makes up for it in many other ways. Cheers!
Originally Posted By: sparky123
Very true comment on driving styles and types of distance driven. I mostly drive on the easy but my distance to work is only 5 miles and usually less than 10 min. So I reach water temp but I'm sure the oil temp is not even close. No extreme winter/summer temps either. Perhaps in my case 5k OCI are the best coarse of action?
If you are not getting out of the warm up phase in winter, then that would define your use as severe service and a 5K miles oil only change with a 10K mile full oil service would make sense. Only a UOA can determine what the OCI should be, but the big issue with short trips is fuel contamination of the oil.
It would help your engine if you could get a good blast down the highway on a Sunday to evaporate the fuel contamination from the oil and clean out the Carbon deposits from the cylinders.
I once asked a diesel engine overhaul expert what was the best thing an owner could do for his engine and he replied, "10 hours at max continous power!".
Very true comment on driving styles and types of distance driven. I mostly drive on the easy but my distance to work is only 5 miles and usually less than 10 min. So I reach water temp but I'm sure the oil temp is not even close. No extreme winter/summer temps either. Perhaps in my case 5k OCI are the best coarse of action?
If you are not getting out of the warm up phase in winter, then that would define your use as severe service and a 5K miles oil only change with a 10K mile full oil service would make sense. Only a UOA can determine what the OCI should be, but the big issue with short trips is fuel contamination of the oil.
It would help your engine if you could get a good blast down the highway on a Sunday to evaporate the fuel contamination from the oil and clean out the Carbon deposits from the cylinders.
I once asked a diesel engine overhaul expert what was the best thing an owner could do for his engine and he replied, "10 hours at max continous power!".
I've been thinking of doing my own oil only changes @ 6 mo intervals. This way I don't have to remove the plastic shroud/cover beneth the engine nor have to remove the filter housing/filter. All I'd need to do is remove the oil drain plug (which is not a hex bolt) and add 6 quarts or so of oil. Bought the car in April so I'd change the oil in November and then have the shop do the next oil/filter change in April on the car's anniversity date. I don't see a problem as I drive less than 10k a yr. And yes, once a week the car does get driven more. I thinking 2 oil changes per yr. would be best. Then, I'd keep using Castrol Edge bought when they're on sale.
Originally Posted By: sparky123
I've been thinking of doing my own oil only changes @ 6 mo intervals. This way I don't have to remove the plastic shroud/cover beneth the engine nor have to remove the filter housing/filter. All I'd need to do is remove the oil drain plug (which is not a hex bolt) and add 6 quarts or so of oil. Bought the car in April so I'd change the oil in November and then have the shop do the next oil/filter change in April on the car's anniversity date. I don't see a problem as I drive less than 10k a yr. And yes, once a week the car does get driven more. I thinking 2 oil changes per yr. would be best. Then, I'd keep using Castrol Edge bought when they're on sale.
Castrol Edge is a real good oil and my German Volvo dealer uses it and they are real fussy. If the oil drain plug is difficult to access (I have to remove underbody covers to get at mine)then you can use an oil change pump, BUT only if the engine type allows direct access down the dipstick hole to the lowest part of the sump.
It's difficult to figure out how an engine and oil will respond to extreme service issues, like too much time at idle or off roading (Dust contamination), because a weekly blast down the highway could reduce the contamination levels to allow an annual or 10K mile service.
The proof of the pudding is in the eating, so two UOA's one at the 5K oil only change and another at the 10K full service would give you the real answer. If the TBN drops too far by 5K, the oil has significant fuel contamination or has sheared below a 30 grade then there is not much hope of leaving the oil for one year or 10K miles. The wear metals are of interest because if the rate of accumulation is lower when you extend the OCI to 10K (If possible from the initial fugures), for example the Iron content is less than double the 5K figure then the 10K OCI is better for the engine.
This forum is good for advice on UOA results, so if you do one at 5K (35 usd inc TBN with Blackstones), it will be possible to figure out if a 10K OCI is possible or not. If the figures are good then you will need to get one or two more UOA's done to confirm all is well for 10K mile OCI's.
Annual oil analysis is still a good idea even when you have decided on your final service schedule, as it will show headgasket leaks, injections system faults and air filtration failures before they cause serious damage. The results can sometimes help in terms of planning ahead in terms of what to do with an engine that is in the terminal phase, because it will show if the main bearings, rings or top end is failing, which should indicate if it is worth doing a top end only overhaul because the Lead and Cromium figures are still OK.
A good quality main block that has a good OCI procedure that is exposed to inner city conditions will often suffer an ultimate failure due to valve seating and valve guide issues. The main bearings will be good and the rings OK, so a recon head could give another few hundred thousand before the pistons et al give up in a big way. Unfortuntely with the latest engines, everything tends to fail at the same time, so top end overhauls are not such a good idea on some new engines.
Obviously I believe folks should buy one good car and keep it until main block or rust related failure, although the older pre DPF diesels are better in long term engine life terms.
I've been thinking of doing my own oil only changes @ 6 mo intervals. This way I don't have to remove the plastic shroud/cover beneth the engine nor have to remove the filter housing/filter. All I'd need to do is remove the oil drain plug (which is not a hex bolt) and add 6 quarts or so of oil. Bought the car in April so I'd change the oil in November and then have the shop do the next oil/filter change in April on the car's anniversity date. I don't see a problem as I drive less than 10k a yr. And yes, once a week the car does get driven more. I thinking 2 oil changes per yr. would be best. Then, I'd keep using Castrol Edge bought when they're on sale.
Castrol Edge is a real good oil and my German Volvo dealer uses it and they are real fussy. If the oil drain plug is difficult to access (I have to remove underbody covers to get at mine)then you can use an oil change pump, BUT only if the engine type allows direct access down the dipstick hole to the lowest part of the sump.
It's difficult to figure out how an engine and oil will respond to extreme service issues, like too much time at idle or off roading (Dust contamination), because a weekly blast down the highway could reduce the contamination levels to allow an annual or 10K mile service.
The proof of the pudding is in the eating, so two UOA's one at the 5K oil only change and another at the 10K full service would give you the real answer. If the TBN drops too far by 5K, the oil has significant fuel contamination or has sheared below a 30 grade then there is not much hope of leaving the oil for one year or 10K miles. The wear metals are of interest because if the rate of accumulation is lower when you extend the OCI to 10K (If possible from the initial fugures), for example the Iron content is less than double the 5K figure then the 10K OCI is better for the engine.
This forum is good for advice on UOA results, so if you do one at 5K (35 usd inc TBN with Blackstones), it will be possible to figure out if a 10K OCI is possible or not. If the figures are good then you will need to get one or two more UOA's done to confirm all is well for 10K mile OCI's.
Annual oil analysis is still a good idea even when you have decided on your final service schedule, as it will show headgasket leaks, injections system faults and air filtration failures before they cause serious damage. The results can sometimes help in terms of planning ahead in terms of what to do with an engine that is in the terminal phase, because it will show if the main bearings, rings or top end is failing, which should indicate if it is worth doing a top end only overhaul because the Lead and Cromium figures are still OK.
A good quality main block that has a good OCI procedure that is exposed to inner city conditions will often suffer an ultimate failure due to valve seating and valve guide issues. The main bearings will be good and the rings OK, so a recon head could give another few hundred thousand before the pistons et al give up in a big way. Unfortuntely with the latest engines, everything tends to fail at the same time, so top end overhauls are not such a good idea on some new engines.
Obviously I believe folks should buy one good car and keep it until main block or rust related failure, although the older pre DPF diesels are better in long term engine life terms.
- Status
