Noxudol Rustproofing - Toyota Tundra Campaign

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Anyone heard or used Noxudol rustproofing products? I got a letter in the mail saying that Toyota is starting a campaign to voluntarily recoat the frames on 07-08 Tundra's in area's that use road salt. This is being offered for a limited time and is no cost to the owner. I believe the process their doing is the same as on earlier Tundras. My truck's frame is pretty much rust free and it has been Krown rustproofed.

Should I just stick with having it Krowned every year or is it worthwhile to have Toyota do this application for free? I am assuming they'd have to clean the Krown off the frame to do the process. I know Krown works, I am not sure what this "waxy" stuff Toyota want's to put on will be like in the long run. I plan to keep this truck for a long time.

Here is a link for the 2000-2003 campaign. I am assuming the application for the newer trucks would be the same, but I don't know for sure.

home.comcast.net/~blizzard3/tundra/RCMN-09V444-6655.pdf
 
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Krown is great stuff...I make a point to drive my vehicles to the nearest Canadian location (about 4 hours) at the end of summer each year to have it done. I'd say that an annual Krown treatment should prevent any frame rust issues and don't know that I'd want a different material applied that could compromise the Krown stuff or be less effective.

More to the point, what's with Toyota and their decades-long frame rust issues on their trucks and the subsequent recalls/rebates, etc.? My nephew's 1997 Tacoma (which he bought used) was tested under one of Toyota's "recalls" for frame rust. The test was to whack the frame at various points with a hammer...if it went through the metal, Toyota "bought" the vehicle back. His truck failed at all but one of the hammer slam locations...and he received almost twice what he paid for the high mileage truck from the original owner. He used the money towards a used 2007 Chevy Silverado...which he loves and has been a great truck.

You'd think that Toyota would have figured out a way to if not avoid at least delay these frame rust issues by now.
 
Wow, talk about poor quality... For this to remain into the next generation is horrid engineering.

I'd get it done. I know some frames like on my rust free 98 Chevy, the frame is waxy from the factory.

They say that the good waxy coatings are self healing. I don't know this to be the absolute truth, but if you wax it then keep it ironed, I don't se how you can go wrong.

There should have been a coating on the interior and exterior of the frame from the factory. I'd get this on to replicate that.
 
It's just the paint on the frame that's not that great. I spent some time to touching up the paint on my frame before the Krown oil spray. The steel itself is fine.

If this stuff is like the GM wax coating from the factory, that stuff only lasts a couple years around here before it flakes off and the frames start to rust. Just from my observations, GM frames seem to rust quicker than any others around here, while Ford frames (since 2004, older ones rusted quickly) seem to have the paint stay on the longest. But my old 1993 Chevy's frame long lost it's wax coating and stayed rust free (mostly other than some surface rust) with Krown annually.

Regardless of what I do, I am still getting Krown annual sprays.
 
It isn't just the paint. My old '88 F-250 frame was ugly as sin, since it had never seen Krown and sat parked on grass up at the cottage for most of its life. But the frame was still perfectly solid 20 years later when it would have 3x palates of shingles slapped in the back of it routinely.

It is a metallurgy issue if the frame gets weak to the point of being able to put a hammer through it when it rusts. They will ALL rust if not regularly treated, it isn't like the manufacturers rely on the consumer getting the vehicle rust proofed every year to prevent the frame from failing. Yet this is exactly the case with Toyota. Yours is fine because you've Krown'd it. But would it be dangerously unsafe if you hadn't? That appears to be the potential issue here IMHO, and that's scary.
 
Maybe on the older frames it is the metallurgy, but I don't think that's the case with these newer frames on these trucks. But I guess only time will tell. The campaign letter says that the trucks may show "excessive corrosion" because they not have "adequate corosion-resistant protection". The campaign is a "customer satisfaction campaign." I give credit to Toyota for at least doing something about it now, but it would have been nicer if it was done better at the factory. I know the older Tacomas had problems with frame failures, the older Tundras with the rear sections of the frames rotting, not the same issue as these newer trucks.

That said, back in the day, my brother's '86 GMC frame cracked behind the cab due to excessive frame rust, and the same thing happend to my buddies '84 F-150 (which still had a strong running 300). Neither of those trucks were rustproofed, both were rust buckets in less than 20 years.

My truck was only Krowned for the first time this year, and it's a 2008, the previous owner did not Krown it. I spent a lot of time under it inspecting every nook and cranny. I touched up a few spots on the frame but nothing excessive.

I am just unsure if I should even bother following through with this campaign or not. I'd like to know more about the rustproofing and not discuss the frame design/flaws.

So in short, stick with Krown only, or do campaign and stick with Krown.
 
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Well, we use Krown every year and the frame on my Expedition, which will be 13 years old, is still black, without a spot of rust on it.

My advice is to do exactly what you are doing: Find out more about this product and how good it is. And whether it is worth using it in conjunction with the Krown treatment, or just forgo the dealer "coating" and continue on with what you know works.
 
Originally Posted By: Oldswagon
Just from my observations, GM frames seem to rust quicker than any others around here,


Not compared to Toyota obviously!

My 98 chevy still has a waxy frame... Im going to paint Krown on it anyway for safe keeping...
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2

Not compared to Toyota obviously!

My 98 chevy still has a waxy frame... Im going to paint Krown on it anyway for safe keeping...


I have a feeling your truck is looked after just a "little" better than the average Chevy. And like I said, around my area, through my observations, within a couple of years the waxy coating on GM frames flakes off and they start rusting, sooner than most Toyota's frames start to rust. The only exception is if they are rustproofed.

That said, I'd prefer to discuss Noxudol rustproofing, not frame design and coatings.
 
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Originally Posted By: Oldswagon
That said, I'd prefer to discuss Noxudol rustproofing, not frame design and coatings.


Can you give us a bit more info? My assumption is that this stuff is a waxy coating similar to waxoyl, Amsoil HDMP, Eastwood HD anti-rust or any of the others. It is a waxlike coating that self heals and excludes moisture from the metal frame, which might be painted or coated with something else, or just be bare...

Regardless Id do it. if for nothing else than because it is free and adds another barrier to everything. It doesnt exclude you from Krowning it... in fact Id keep doing the kropwn to keep the other stuff soft and pliable and solvated so it can move and self heal over time, and to keep the spots where it comes off, clean and coated...
 
I don't really know anything about it which is the reason I posted this question here, hoping that someone would have additional information. I want to know whether it is a good rustproofer or not, and the principles on how it works. From the video I posted, it certianly looks like a heavy thick undercoat. I believe Toyota uses Noxudol 300, which is here:

Noxudol 300

I am hesitant to put a thick waxy type substance under my vehicle. Too many memories of seeing heavy undercoats flaking to reveal rust. But maybe this stuff is different, I don't know. At least with Krown, it's just basically oil sprayed on the steel that keeps it from rusting. It's simple but I know it works (I have used it for 20 years).

So if anyone has any knowledge, or experience with this product and how it works, please post. Or if any other Toyota owners have had the CRC application, please post the results.
 
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Well the use of wax coatings on other truck brands is a good set of data points, and there is experience using waxes.

Wax coatings tend to sit tight and wont have a gap or bubble underneath where air or moisture can contact. IMO this is the most important thing... Lots of folks have had porous rubber undercoatings produce more rust underneath becasue they werent truly bonded and left a pocket under there, or else were sprayed onto rust, which continued. Ive also heard situations where the rubber was slightly porous and allowed moisture to transfer through to the metal underneath.

Given that the wax is self-healing, self-spreading, hydrophobic and not porous, you shouldnt have issues with this. In high wear areas where road debris is kicked up, I wouldnt count on the wax (nor rubber undercoatings, which is why special types are sold for rocker panels and other such areas) to last for that long, but Ill bet that it is easy to touch up or at least krown over, which may even make it re-flow, which would be optimal.

I have waxoyl under my 82 MB. It does pick up some road dust and sand, like it is lodged in the wax. No big deal and fairly minute. The biggest consideration is that this kind of product makes the entire underneath of the vehicle really dirty, so if you climb under, youll permannently stain any clothes it touches. But this isnt much different than krown staining it. OE coatings from the factory are a bit more baked on, and thus stain less... they are probably apploed hot rather than via solvent, and are higher molecular weight (think candle vs. car wax) so are harder and more durable.
 
Thanks, I really appreciate your input and info on the wax coatings. I really have little experience with them other than OEM wax coatings on GM frames. As for making the vehicle dirty, let me tell you, so does Krown - big time. That's the one thing I dislike about it, especially since I do all my own work/maintenance on my vehicles.

I have had a difficult time finding out any info on this product so far. I'd like to see it on a vehicle before I make a decision. In any case, Toyota says I have until October 2014, so I am in no rush to use it. If I do, I may wait until the late summer, have Toyota do this coating, then, follow up with a Krown spray. I don't want to do it now when I just paid to have Krown spray my truck a month ago.

Any other input, please chime in.
 
Originally Posted By: Oldswagon
Toyota says I have until October 2014, so I am in no rush to use it. If I do, I may wait until the late summer, have Toyota do this coating, then, follow up with a Krown spray.

I think you'd better check with Toyota regarding putting Noxudol on top of Krown/RustCheck/Carwell; I suspect you'll need to get that cleaned off before the Noxudol will stick properly.
 
Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: Oldswagon
Toyota says I have until October 2014, so I am in no rush to use it. If I do, I may wait until the late summer, have Toyota do this coating, then, follow up with a Krown spray.

I think you'd better check with Toyota regarding putting Noxudol on top of Krown/RustCheck/Carwell; I suspect you'll need to get that cleaned off before the Noxudol will stick properly.



Yes, this was one of my original concerns too. I don't want to clean off the Krown that I just paid for. If I decide to do this, I'd wait until almost a year after the Krown spray was been done. But if Toyota wants me to clean it off, I won't do their rustproofing.
 
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