Mobil 1 high mileage vs m1 mc specific 10-40
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You have a wet clutch? The HM is a PCMO and I don't think it's made for wet clutches. The M1 motorcycle oil is made for wet clutches.
If you have a wet clutch, look for JASO MA rating on the bottle. If it's not there, get it out ASAP and get the right oil in there.
If you have a wet clutch, look for JASO MA rating on the bottle. If it's not there, get it out ASAP and get the right oil in there.
Most of the time the feel shift better comes from the friction modifier that may cause clutch slippage during high power/high load application. Quieter is because the HM is thicker than MC specific
You can use any oil you want. I too have used the M1 HM 10w-40 in my bike with a wet clutch. No problems whatsoever. Have it in my V-Star 650 right now. Put it in about a month ago for the cooler weather. Runs like a champ. M1 15w-50 is good to go too. I've used every oil from Supertech 20w-50, Napa 15w-50, to all the motorcycle specific oils. No difference at all.
I had some bad luck running Mobil in a bike. Not sure which was the culprit, the 15-50 or a mc specific 10-40, but I had a cam lobe going flat and bucket scraped.
Originally Posted By: BillyTheKid
I had some bad luck running Mobil in a bike. Not sure which was the culprit, the 15-50 or a mc specific 10-40, but I had a cam lobe going flat and bucket scraped.
Might also be just bad parts. Several manufacturers over the years have had some significant cam wear issues. But some MC specific oils have REALLY low anti wear packages. I was shocked to see how mediocre Yamalube is and especially how bad Kendall's MC 20w50 was in the anti wear department.
I had some bad luck running Mobil in a bike. Not sure which was the culprit, the 15-50 or a mc specific 10-40, but I had a cam lobe going flat and bucket scraped.
Might also be just bad parts. Several manufacturers over the years have had some significant cam wear issues. But some MC specific oils have REALLY low anti wear packages. I was shocked to see how mediocre Yamalube is and especially how bad Kendall's MC 20w50 was in the anti wear department.
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
Originally Posted By: BillyTheKid
I had some bad luck running Mobil in a bike. Not sure which was the culprit, the 15-50 or a mc specific 10-40, but I had a cam lobe going flat and bucket scraped.
Might also be just bad parts. Several manufacturers over the years have had some significant cam wear issues. But some MC specific oils have REALLY low anti wear packages. I was shocked to see how mediocre Yamalube is and especially how bad Kendall's MC 20w50 was in the anti wear department.
Roger that....how could an oil single out ONE cam lobe to destroy? Bad camshaft for sure.
Originally Posted By: BillyTheKid
I had some bad luck running Mobil in a bike. Not sure which was the culprit, the 15-50 or a mc specific 10-40, but I had a cam lobe going flat and bucket scraped.
Might also be just bad parts. Several manufacturers over the years have had some significant cam wear issues. But some MC specific oils have REALLY low anti wear packages. I was shocked to see how mediocre Yamalube is and especially how bad Kendall's MC 20w50 was in the anti wear department.
Roger that....how could an oil single out ONE cam lobe to destroy? Bad camshaft for sure.
Hey, I'm not blaming Mobil, just saying I had bad luck with it and have changed from it after that in the bikes. Cars I still use it quite a bit. I doubt it was a faulty part, it was a stock (at the time) Suzuki hayabusa with about 6k miles on it. I wasnt happy with the wear it was showing besides this cam lobe when we tore it down. I don't trust Mobil in the bikes.
Look up some of the research Sunrah has done with his bike, his posts can be found on here. He has turned many oils to water in his shared sump bike. I also have seen what things look like on quite a few bikes when we tear them down.
Look up some of the research Sunrah has done with his bike, his posts can be found on here. He has turned many oils to water in his shared sump bike. I also have seen what things look like on quite a few bikes when we tear them down.
Yeah most 10w40 oils do not hold up well in shared sumps. Too much of a spread there. Only Mobil 1 I would use is the 15w50.
And besides bad parts there is the change the valve train was out of spec too. Just saying too many variables, especially in a used bike to just blame oil without ruling the others out.
And besides bad parts there is the change the valve train was out of spec too. Just saying too many variables, especially in a used bike to just blame oil without ruling the others out.
I ran mostly 15-50 with one early run of mc spec 10-40 all Mobil products. I know I cannot blame the oil, but I been around the game way too long and owned too many race bikes (raced hard drag racing) to want to ignore the oil may or may not have been a contributing factor, so I have moved on to play with some othr different oils. This bike was not raced though, for the most part ridden very easy compared to how I have ridden everything else and ridden it since (has a turbo and built motor on it now). Just a choice thing no to experiment with new oils. Then again, when it comes to something built for power, I change oil so often it wouldn't matter what I used most likely.
Before I was aware of MC specific oils a long time ago; I put standard M1 in my CBR 1100xx. Everyone told me the clutch would slip because it wasn't designed for a wet clutch. I never noticed a difference personally. After that oil change though; I never put pcmo oil in my bike again. Why would I when companies make specific oil for Motorcycles?
Originally Posted By: kr_bitog
Most of the time the feel shift better comes from the friction modifier that may cause clutch slippage during high power/high load application. Quieter is because the HM is thicker than MC specific
Actually, M1's MC specific 10w40 oil is thicker with an hths value of 4.14 and VI of 161 than the M1 HM 10w40 with an hths value of 3.9 and a VI of 160.
They are really close though in viscosity.
Most of the time the feel shift better comes from the friction modifier that may cause clutch slippage during high power/high load application. Quieter is because the HM is thicker than MC specific
Actually, M1's MC specific 10w40 oil is thicker with an hths value of 4.14 and VI of 161 than the M1 HM 10w40 with an hths value of 3.9 and a VI of 160.
They are really close though in viscosity.
Last edited:
I never saw clutch slip with any oils used over the years unless I fried the clutch. I personally don't believe in the clutch slip theory. That's my personal opinion and experience, with some very hard racing.
Originally Posted By: 04SVT
Originally Posted By: kr_bitog
Most of the time the feel shift better comes from the friction modifier that may cause clutch slippage during high power/high load application. Quieter is because the HM is thicker than MC specific
Actually, M1's MC specific 10w40 oil is thicker with an hths value of 4.14 and VI of 161 than the M1 HM 10w40 with an hths value of 3.9 and a VI of 160.
They are really close though in viscosity.
Well the viscosity at 100C HM is slightly thicker with 14.71 vs 13.1 cst
Originally Posted By: kr_bitog
Most of the time the feel shift better comes from the friction modifier that may cause clutch slippage during high power/high load application. Quieter is because the HM is thicker than MC specific
Actually, M1's MC specific 10w40 oil is thicker with an hths value of 4.14 and VI of 161 than the M1 HM 10w40 with an hths value of 3.9 and a VI of 160.
They are really close though in viscosity.
Well the viscosity at 100C HM is slightly thicker with 14.71 vs 13.1 cst
Originally Posted By: BillyTheKid
I never saw clutch slip with any oils used over the years unless I fried the clutch. I personally don't believe in the clutch slip theory. That's my personal opinion and experience, with some very hard racing.
Not sure what you meant by fry the clutch ?
For bigger bike with bigger clutch and roughly same weight of passenger, this slippage may not be an issue. However, I have a few experiences for smaller engine bike, that with lots of friction modifier on oil, the clutch will slip when you carry a passenger and try to accelerate fast.
I never saw clutch slip with any oils used over the years unless I fried the clutch. I personally don't believe in the clutch slip theory. That's my personal opinion and experience, with some very hard racing.
Not sure what you meant by fry the clutch ?
For bigger bike with bigger clutch and roughly same weight of passenger, this slippage may not be an issue. However, I have a few experiences for smaller engine bike, that with lots of friction modifier on oil, the clutch will slip when you carry a passenger and try to accelerate fast.
Meaning burned the fiber disks and glazed the metal ones from launching hard at a drag strip. Fry meaning the bike hardly wants to move under its own power, moves very little but revs like crazy in simple terms.
I have not seen clutch slip personally in any bike and even when riding someone. As I said, I have only experienced slip when the clutch was going south. I could be wrong, but I have been lucky enough to have a close friend as a race bike shop owner and with a dyno too, so I get to play with a lot of things.
I have not seen clutch slip personally in any bike and even when riding someone. As I said, I have only experienced slip when the clutch was going south. I could be wrong, but I have been lucky enough to have a close friend as a race bike shop owner and with a dyno too, so I get to play with a lot of things.
Originally Posted By: Sonic
You can use any oil you want. I too have used the M1 HM 10w-40 in my bike with a wet clutch. No problems whatsoever. Have it in my V-Star 650 right now. Put it in about a month ago for the cooler weather. Runs like a champ. M1 15w-50 is good to go too. I've used every oil from Supertech 20w-50, Napa 15w-50, to all the motorcycle specific oils. No difference at all.
This is the worst advice I have ever seen as far as bike oils are concerned.
I put mobil 1 v-twin in my primary,just after I had the 106 done and it slipped under full power. I had the v-twin in the engine too and the top end was so noisy I thought a rocker arm was broken.
A 650 v-star doesn't have enough power to cause clutch slip so that's not a fair comparison.
I drained the v-twin from my primary,put in rotella and voila,no slip. 10000 miles later and still no slip.
Edit. Sorry. It was the motorcycle specific 10w-40 mobil that my clutch slipped with.
A shared sump bike needs a fluid that meets JASO. Period. Why risk it with a pmco that may contain moly. Not worth the risk. Especially when rotella can be had so cheaply. Makes no sense to me.
You can use any oil you want. I too have used the M1 HM 10w-40 in my bike with a wet clutch. No problems whatsoever. Have it in my V-Star 650 right now. Put it in about a month ago for the cooler weather. Runs like a champ. M1 15w-50 is good to go too. I've used every oil from Supertech 20w-50, Napa 15w-50, to all the motorcycle specific oils. No difference at all.
This is the worst advice I have ever seen as far as bike oils are concerned.
I put mobil 1 v-twin in my primary,just after I had the 106 done and it slipped under full power. I had the v-twin in the engine too and the top end was so noisy I thought a rocker arm was broken.
A 650 v-star doesn't have enough power to cause clutch slip so that's not a fair comparison.
I drained the v-twin from my primary,put in rotella and voila,no slip. 10000 miles later and still no slip.
Edit. Sorry. It was the motorcycle specific 10w-40 mobil that my clutch slipped with.
A shared sump bike needs a fluid that meets JASO. Period. Why risk it with a pmco that may contain moly. Not worth the risk. Especially when rotella can be had so cheaply. Makes no sense to me.
Originally Posted By: kr_bitog
Originally Posted By: 04SVT
Originally Posted By: kr_bitog
Most of the time the feel shift better comes from the friction modifier that may cause clutch slippage during high power/high load application. Quieter is because the HM is thicker than MC specific
Actually, M1's MC specific 10w40 oil is thicker with an hths value of 4.14 and VI of 161 than the M1 HM 10w40 with an hths value of 3.9 and a VI of 160.
They are really close though in viscosity.
Well the viscosity at 100C HM is slightly thicker with 14.71 vs 13.1 cst
Viscosity at 100c is irrelevant. The hths value is what's important. That is an oils viscosity at an engines operating temperature.
Originally Posted By: 04SVT
Originally Posted By: kr_bitog
Most of the time the feel shift better comes from the friction modifier that may cause clutch slippage during high power/high load application. Quieter is because the HM is thicker than MC specific
Actually, M1's MC specific 10w40 oil is thicker with an hths value of 4.14 and VI of 161 than the M1 HM 10w40 with an hths value of 3.9 and a VI of 160.
They are really close though in viscosity.
Well the viscosity at 100C HM is slightly thicker with 14.71 vs 13.1 cst
Viscosity at 100c is irrelevant. The hths value is what's important. That is an oils viscosity at an engines operating temperature.
Originally Posted By: BillyTheKid
Meaning burned the fiber disks and glazed the metal ones from launching hard at a drag strip. Fry meaning the bike hardly wants to move under its own power, moves very little but revs like crazy in simple terms.
I have not seen clutch slip personally in any bike and even when riding someone. As I said, I have only experienced slip when the clutch was going south. I could be wrong, but I have been lucky enough to have a close friend as a race bike shop owner and with a dyno too, so I get to play with a lot of things.
from my experience, the PCMO will cause premature glazing of the clutch and ends up with slipped or fried
Meaning burned the fiber disks and glazed the metal ones from launching hard at a drag strip. Fry meaning the bike hardly wants to move under its own power, moves very little but revs like crazy in simple terms.
I have not seen clutch slip personally in any bike and even when riding someone. As I said, I have only experienced slip when the clutch was going south. I could be wrong, but I have been lucky enough to have a close friend as a race bike shop owner and with a dyno too, so I get to play with a lot of things.
from my experience, the PCMO will cause premature glazing of the clutch and ends up with slipped or fried
Originally Posted By: kr_bitog
from my experience, the PCMO will cause premature glazing of the clutch and ends up with slipped or fried
Got it, I guess everyone has their own experiences. I been lucky in that regard and used countless different oils.
from my experience, the PCMO will cause premature glazing of the clutch and ends up with slipped or fried
Got it, I guess everyone has their own experiences. I been lucky in that regard and used countless different oils.
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