2012 Chrysler T&C Oil Temp and Pressure

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So while my A6 is in the body shop for some work, the rental agency was kind enough to give me a 2012 T&C for 4 days. It has the 3.6 Pentastar with the 62TE 6 speed auto.

While playing with the DIC in the cluster, I found that it has actual gauges for oil temp and pressure. In the 30 mile highway drive to and from work, I've found that at 1750 rpm the pressure is a steady 40 psi and the temp seems to hold right at 170 degrees. This is with what I assume to be conventional 5W-30, because that is what's printed right on the oil filler cap.

Any opinions on whether 40 psi is low, high, or correct? I know that we like to debate the move to 5W-20 in some engines, and I wonder if this particular engine could live its life on 5W-20 and still see adequate oil pressure at this temp.

I ask because in my Audi I have an oil temp gauge, but no pressure one. I typically see temps of 200-210 degrees all year round, but I also have two turbos. I've never put a pressure gauge on my car, so I don't know what pressure it runs at with the 0/5W-40 I run in it.

Is an oil temp of 170 low? Would a good synthetic 0/5W-20 be ample protection at that temp? Would it be enough if the engine ran at 200 or 210 degrees, or would the 5W-30 then be necessary?

P.S. - The 62TE is one busy and clunky transmission. In normal in town driving at moderate acceleration, it actually shift from 2nd to 5th gear in 2 seconds. It really holds 1st gear and then makes every effort to get to the highest gear possible for economy reasons, and that is with the Economy button turned off. When in Economy mode, it will upshift to 6th every chance it gets and lug @ 1100 rpm in town, and will not down shift with gently pedal pressure. When enough pressure is applied to force it to downshift, it rockets into 3rd gear and really takes off. There is no inbetween. I'm really thinking twice about buying one of these next summer, just because of the trans performance issues.
 
As far as oil pressure, you can't really say what's "right" unless you have the factory manual for the specific engine. It's certainly more than my car, for which the minimum spec is 11 psi @ 1,500 rpm. 10psi per 1,000 rpm is a rough guide, but there is some variance among engines.

170 degrees seem low, really low--like not warm enough to burn off all of the byproducts? So, I do wonder what's up with that.

As far as oil grade, I'm sure a 20W oil would be great for your 30 mile commute to work; load the van up to its capacity (which is high!) and go over a couple of mountain passes @ 70mph, then check the oil temp and pressure. Obviously an oil has to be spec'd for the harshest conditions it may see (within reason), and provide some headroom. So, who knows. One nice thing is that with temp and pressure available, one would at least make an informed decision if they wanted to experiment.
 
First, about the transmission. You've got to give the software time to "learn" your particular driving style. It will adapt and smooth out over time. My 300 has the ZF 8-speed, and I had to have it reflashed a few weeks ago due to a software recall. It took a good ten days to re-learn my driving and now it's back to being the smoothest shifting auto I've ever driven. The default programming, however, was just as you described and is annoying.

On the oil pressure, the Pentastar has a variable displacement pump which operates in low pressure mode bellow 3000 rpm and high pressure above. Oil pressure with 5w20 will not be a problem, as evidence by the fact that for model year 2013 this engine comes from the factory with 5w20 in it.
 
Originally Posted By: threeputtpar
So while my A6 is in the body shop for some work, the rental agency was kind enough to give me a 2012 T&C for 4 days. It has the 3.6 Pentastar with the 62TE 6 speed auto.

While playing with the DIC in the cluster, I found that it has actual gauges for oil temp and pressure. In the 30 mile highway drive to and from work, I've found that at 1750 rpm the pressure is a steady 40 psi and the temp seems to hold right at 170 degrees. This is with what I assume to be conventional 5W-30, because that is what's printed right on the oil filler cap.

Any opinions on whether 40 psi is low, high, or correct? I know that we like to debate the move to 5W-20 in some engines, and I wonder if this particular engine could live its life on 5W-20 and still see adequate oil pressure at this temp.

I ask because in my Audi I have an oil temp gauge, but no pressure one. I typically see temps of 200-210 degrees all year round, but I also have two turbos. I've never put a pressure gauge on my car, so I don't know what pressure it runs at with the 0/5W-40 I run in it.

Is an oil temp of 170 low? Would a good synthetic 0/5W-20 be ample protection at that temp? Would it be enough if the engine ran at 200 or 210 degrees, or would the 5W-30 then be necessary?

P.S. - The 62TE is one busy and clunky transmission. In normal in town driving at moderate acceleration, it actually shift from 2nd to 5th gear in 2 seconds. It really holds 1st gear and then makes every effort to get to the highest gear possible for economy reasons, and that is with the Economy button turned off. When in Economy mode, it will upshift to 6th every chance it gets and lug @ 1100 rpm in town, and will not down shift with gently pedal pressure. When enough pressure is applied to force it to downshift, it rockets into 3rd gear and really takes off. There is no inbetween. I'm really thinking twice about buying one of these next summer, just because of the trans performance issues.
What is your opinion of the engine performance?
 
Every engine runs a little different temp and pressure. What's "normal" for one obviously won't be for another. I don't think 170 is neessarily "low," especially if it's "normal" for that engine but if that is typical most of the time, it would indicate to me that a light oil is the better choice. I don't think anything consistently below 210F requires thicker than what is OEM recommended. If I had a car that was always at 170 and I didn't wail on it much, I'd be tempted to drop into a 20 grade (even if 30 was recommended. At least, I'd find a light 0W30 for it

My own 5.4L Ford seldom even reaches 200F. In winter, it seldom makes it past 180F. Which leads to some stupendously high oil pressure when cold since I am currently running 10W30 in it for a test. I am really light on the food feet until the OT gets to around 100F and then easy until 150F. I have seen OP over 100 PSI on a cold start above 3000 rpm.
 
not sure about your pressure and temp. question, but i can tell you my wife and i just traded a 2011 dodge grand caravan crew in after 1 year, we gave it the ole 1 year review and it failed to meet our expectations of quality in a new vehicle, after several dissapointing trips to the dealer being told (this is normal) or no stored codes we have nothing to fix, such as:
rough idle- can see waves in your coffe in the cup holder
hard shift from park to drive- felt like you were rearended
wobbling soung from engine or tranny when coming to a stop
needs rear brakes after only 17 k
and for the bitog guys it rattled pretty loud for 3-5 seconds on a cold start (this is a florida cold start)
tps failed, they did fix that.
vehicle gave us the impression it would be a money pit, so we took the beating and traded it for 2013 MAZDA 6, my wife had a 04 and loved it.

cb
 
Originally Posted By: coolbird101
not sure about your pressure and temp. question, but i can tell you my wife and i just traded a 2011 dodge grand caravan crew in after 1 year, we gave it the ole 1 year review and it failed to meet our expectations of quality in a new vehicle, after several dissapointing trips to the dealer being told (this is normal) or no stored codes we have nothing to fix, such as:
rough idle- can see waves in your coffe in the cup holder
hard shift from park to drive- felt like you were rearended
wobbling soung from engine or tranny when coming to a stop
needs rear brakes after only 17 k
and for the bitog guys it rattled pretty loud for 3-5 seconds on a cold start (this is a florida cold start)
tps failed, they did fix that.
vehicle gave us the impression it would be a money pit, so we took the beating and traded it for 2013 MAZDA 6, my wife had a 04 and loved it.

cb


Chrysler quality at its finest!
 
In 2013 they changed the spec to 5W20 but ASFAIK the 2012 remains the same with no back spec to 5W20. I'd leave 5W30 in it and not mess with the 5W20.
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I would say the oil temp is low for the Pentastar 3.6. I have two '12 Charger SE and they run at 192-195F at full operating temp. The pressure seems about right on with my vehicles. I love 'em!
 
it didnt take much googling to find out the 62TE is pretty much a garbage transmission. i'd avoid it like HIV.
 
we really wanted to like it and dont get me wrong it had some nice features as well, weird thing is just about all my complaints were at 15 mph or less, it ran down the highway great and the pentastar makes the van very quick, so they got most of it right, maybe we got a fri. afternoon built one, who knows.
 
Originally Posted By: Gillsy
What is your opinion of the engine performance?


The engine is smooth all the way through the RPM range, and it moves the van pretty well through traffic and down the highway. It's a bit noisy in the cabin, but I am used to driving an Audi which has some really good sound absorbtion charcteristics. In fact, there is way too much wind noise for my liking.

The fact that it will still do 24-25 mpg on the highway while having >250hp is saying alot.
 
Originally Posted By: G-MAN
First, about the transmission. You've got to give the software time to "learn" your particular driving style. It will adapt and smooth out over time. My 300 has the ZF 8-speed, and I had to have it reflashed a few weeks ago due to a software recall. It took a good ten days to re-learn my driving and now it's back to being the smoothest shifting auto I've ever driven. The default programming, however, was just as you described and is annoying.

On the oil pressure, the Pentastar has a variable displacement pump which operates in low pressure mode bellow 3000 rpm and high pressure above. Oil pressure with 5w20 will not be a problem, as evidence by the fact that for model year 2013 this engine comes from the factory with 5w20 in it.


I appreciate what you're saying, but this is just a rental that I will be turning back in on Friday. I chose it to give it a real world test because we were planning on buying one next year, but I'm really disappointed.

I remember the POS Voyager from the early 90's that my sister had. Even its 3 speed tranny was junk, not to mention having to replace the heads on the 3.0 Mitsubishi engine. So when my wife said she would only buy a minivan if it was the Chrysler (not a Dodge, either), I envisioned having a money pit at about the 75k mile mark.

I've even watched the OP gauge when I floor it to pass someone at highway speeds, and it doesn't move off of 40 psi hot. I'd expect a little bump, at least.

Oh, and I was wrong; it's a 2011 T&C. But I think that just means that it had 16" tires standard instead of 17".
 
Back to the main point of my OP. Does a 40 psi pressure at operating temp mean that Chrysler used 5W-30 in the first years to make sure there was adequate protection before moving to the 5W-20 for the 2013 model year? Can the 10 psi per 1000 rpm be used as a guide? I'll try to find the factory spec for OP for this 2011.
 
I have a 2008 T&C with the 3.3L. It has been an OK Van except for brakes...I looked at a used 2012 T&C Van this past week. The tranny was horrible..... It seemed like it wanted to shift way to quickly and it would get into OD at 35MPH. In my opinion, it is the worst tranny I have ever been behind. It seemed to be way too rushed to get into gear.
Unless you wan to deal with up/down shifting all of of the time, I would look to a Honda or a Toyota.
 
Originally Posted By: threeputtpar
Back to the main point of my OP. Does a 40 psi pressure at operating temp mean that Chrysler used 5W-30 in the first years to make sure there was adequate protection before moving to the 5W-20 for the 2013 model year? Can the 10 psi per 1000 rpm be used as a guide? I'll try to find the factory spec for OP for this 2011.


I checked the oil pressure today on my 300. With the oil temp at 176F and the engine turning 1750 rpm, the pressure was 40 psi. NB: I'm running Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5w30.
 
I did a bit of checking on the Wrangler forums, too and it seems that greater than 27psi seems to be the norm at highway speeds.

One person stated that factory spec was anything above 5 psi at full temp is adequate, but I find that a bit low to believe. He didn't quote a source for the info, so maybe he was pulling it out of you-know-where.
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Originally Posted By: threeputtpar


One person stated that factory spec was anything above 5 psi at full temp is adequate, but I find that a bit low to believe. He didn't quote a source for the info, so maybe he was pulling it out of you-know-where.
21.gif



I have a feeling he's wrong..........
 
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