hand tighten inner tie rod (to rack)

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So I need an alignment after putting on new outer/inner tie rods drivers side. I also need the shop to crimp the washer because I couldn't reach it since the transmission was in the way. That involves just cutting the zip tie I have on the boot, push boot and crimp. I even had another zip tie of the same length in case they didn't.

Well, the shop won't crimp a washer unless they take the tie rods out completely, cost $70. Perturbed, I agreed and just told them okay, 35 ft/lb on the castle nut, 55 on the locknut, 46 ft/lb on the inner tie rod, just being paranoid about oem specs and not trying to tell the guy to do his job, just trying to help him out with numbers he might need to dig around for. They guy stops me and says inner tie rods only need to be screwed on hand tight, as if it were an oil filter. I would have went along and paid the $70 until he said that. Then an 'are you serious' sort of dialogue went on between us and I left with my car.

Am I nuts? All I know is that i'm going to need to lift my car as high as possible and crimp the darn thing myself, just have to get around the transmission somehow. I'll be back to the guy for the alignment though, it's close to my work.
 
There is a torque value for every fastener on a car. I would find another mechanic.
 
+1 what gmboy said. Sounds like one stupid mechanic. He should not have to take a tie rod out to crimp that piece either.

Find a good independant mechanic shop
 
It would be so easy to find a good angle if the car is up in the air on a lift. I can't get it high enough with what I have to wiggle my body underneath and get a good angle with a long brass bar or screwdriver and hammer. If the shop would let me underneath, I'd have it done in 5 min. Guess I'll keep calling. Shame, the alignment price this guy charges is pretty cheap.
 
The mechanic is way wrong and potentially dangerous.
A working tech would rarely say something this stupid.
Of course, on the internet, this type of thing abounds.
 
For what it's worth, I use one of these to torque the inner tie rod end:

http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-45750.aspx

(and a torque wrench of course). However, you must somehow hold the rack end to prevent it from turning and potentially damaging the rack seals or mechanism. I have been able to hold the ends one way or another, on my Sienna I had to cut down an open end wrench to fit and I could hold the rack steady while a helper torqued the rod end.

Those washers can be tricky to fold over too, I agree. I think there is a special tool to do it on some cars but generally I have found that patience and tapping with a long screwdriver will get it done. You don't need to hit it hard if you take your time, just gently fold it over.
 
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