Seafoam

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If I put half a bottle of Seafoam where I normally pour in oil to top it off, how many miles is ok to drive it around like that?

The can says something to the effect of "drive a little bit, then get an oil change" and "use for long term cleaning" but I'm worried that leaving it in there too long would cause damage.

This is for a 2001 Ford Ranger XLT 2.5L engine with 165k miles. I ran Seafoam around 150k miles through the vaccum or whatever that is, then around 155k miles, I had a friend do the 3M kit (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YJ47JO/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01) on the truck.

I run synthetic and have been running it since 150k miles. Always used to run regular dino from the 10 minute quick changes (I know that's bad! lol) before that, but I need the longer OCI now.
 
I wouldn't top off your Ranger with seafoam. It is a good cleaner, and I've used it, but its very strong. Seafoam in the oil is meant to be run right before an oil change. It is aggressive and can loosen lots of [censored] in your engine. Some guys just pour it in right before changing the oil, idle the engine for a few minutes, then change it.

Marvel Mystery Oil can be run (at the specified ratio on the bottle) for a 3,000 mile oil change if you'd like. I think that defeats the purpose of running synthetic though. If your truck leaks or burns oil over your oil change interval, I would just top off with more of the synthetic.
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Sorry, I wasn't clear. I pour the Seafoam WHERE I top off the oil. I think it's called the crankcase, but I'm not sure. I'm not looking to top off with Seafoam.
 
Originally Posted By: hockeyfun1
Sorry, I wasn't clear. I pour the Seafoam WHERE I top off the oil. I think it's called the crankcase, but I'm not sure. I'm not looking to top off with Seafoam.


If you put in Seafoam instead of oil, you topped off with Seafoam. Yes, that place is called your crankcase.

Just use decent oil and leave the solvents out.
 
My oil level was fine to begin with. My poor choice of words said otherwise. I "added" Seafoam to my crankcase.

So, how long is ok to keep Seafoam in my crankcase before I need an oil change?
 
How many miles is good to drive around with seafoam?
answer: Zero

Run seafoam through the vacuum line?
answer: Never

Running dino is bad?
answer: Just plain silly to think dino is bad
 
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Originally Posted By: mechtech2
How many miles is good to drive around with seafoam?
answer: Zero

Run seafoam through the vacuum line?
answer: Never

Running dino is bad?
answer: Just plain silly to think dino is bad


+1 LOL
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Originally Posted By: mechtech2
How many miles is good to drive around with seafoam?
answer: Zero

Run seafoam through the vacuum line?
answer: Never

Running dino is bad?
answer: Just plain silly to think dino is bad



Listen to mechtech2!
 
I've used Seafoam with great results before...it'll quiet down sticky lifters in GM motors almost 100% of the time in my experience. I'll run a whole can at idle for 15 minutes or so to quiet down sticky lifters or run about a half can for 50 miles. Either way seems to help quiet lifters and clean out extra gunk.
 
Seafoam was created by a fisherman as a top end lube and fuel stabilizer for boat problems back in the 1930's. So you have nothing to worry about because its not doing anything other than thinning your oil.

When added to gas you get a octane boost from the IPA which gives euphoria for a tankful. Down the road your cat will thank you with a P0420 for all the pale oil.
 
Originally Posted By: jjcom
I've used Seafoam with great results before...it'll quiet down sticky lifters in GM motors almost 100% of the time in my experience. I'll run a whole can at idle for 15 minutes or so to quiet down sticky lifters or run about a half can for 50 miles. Either way seems to help quiet lifters and clean out extra gunk.


I too have used it for similar reasons and it works great. I always run a full can in the crankcase. Also works very good at removing moisture from the crankcase and as an engine flush. I generally stick to running it for 15-20 minutes at idle vs driving with it in there but in really stubborn situations( i.e. sticking lifters )I have driven as much as 200 miles with it in there( only on an engine I know is basically clean )to get the lifters free.

IMO run it for 15-20 minutes or drive for approx 25 miles then change the oil. Seafoam added to your oil will NOT hurt anything! At least not in and of itself. If you have a really sludged up engine and you add it and then drive and drive and drive it could lead to a blocked oil pickup and oil filter and thus engine damage. Not the actual Seafoam causing the harm though.

I know of people who ad a full can at every oil change and never had any issues. I personally wouldn't do that but it just shows it is ok to use.
 
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From the Seafoam site, pertaining to engine cleaning:

"Performing a Sea Foam Engine Treatment on a Fuel Injected Engine

Begin by parking the vehicle in a well ventilated area. Locate a vacuum line that you are certain DISTRIBUTES EVENLY TO ALL CYLINDERS. On many vehicles the easiest option is taking the vacuum line from your brake booster PCV. "

Pertaining to using it in the oil:

"To clean built-up oil residues and contamination from the crank case, add 1½ oz. Sea Foam to each quart of engine oil. Sea Foam will slowly re-liquefy residues and suspend contaminants for easy removal. Monitor oil for color and clarity and change oil and replace filter when oil looks dirty."

I've done both. No problems. I've run it in the oil for several hundred miles prior to an oil change. No problems.

As with any additive, know what you're doing before you do it, and keep an eye on things. And, most importantly, Google is your friend and take any "advice" with a grain of salt. Caveat Emptor.
 
I guess what the members are saying is:
Change the oil/filter NOW!

Run the engine ~20 minutes and drain. These engines typicaly don't need engine flushes especially since you use known/very good synthetic oils which already have good cleaner in'em and will do very well in your engine.

Some folks may recomend a Dino Oil Rinse Cycle for about 1000 miles, IDK!

Staying with your OCI regime, your engine will likely outlast the rest of the truck.
 
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Originally Posted By: mechtech2
How many miles is good to drive around with seafoam?
answer: Zero
Run seafoam through the vacuum line?
answer: Never
Running dino is bad?
answer: Just plain silly to think dino is bad


At least one person is talking sense! Almost every engine manufacturer includes a warning about oil additives and how damaging they can be. Using an oil flush additive for 10 minutes at idle just before an oil change seems to be safe and I know some of the dealers and garages do that when changing oil in older cars, BUT driving around with any kind of oil additive that says it can remove sludge is very risky, particularly as regards the turbo bearings.
Seafoam, Marvel oil and all the other Snake oils were used with some limited success in old non turbo engines that had very tollerant oil systems that were unlikely to block and large oil pump intake screens. Modern engines are different and far more easily damaged by dislodged debris.
If you suspect your engine is grubby and don't want to get it cleaned properly, just switch to using a top quality oil that has a high detergent content and do some shorter OCI's.
Every engine manufacturer publishes procedures for cleaning an engine of sludge or varnish, but many folks prefer to just look at a nice shiny bottle of snake oil and then think their advertising is the gospel itself.
 
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Originally Posted By: PZR2874
Using SeaFoam and snake oil in the same sentence is just plain ignorance.


+1 Seafoam works. Don't lump it in with Lucasoil and the STPs. True snakeoils
 
Originally Posted By: PZR2874
Using SeaFoam and snake oil in the same sentence is just plain ignorance.


I don't think it has anything to do with ignorance, perhaps more with what one defines a "snake oil" as.

As a cleaner, Seafoam works reasonably well. That's what you get with something based on stoddard solvent.... a cleaner.

As a lubricant, well, I'm betting it is no better than WD40 based on the addition of bright stock to the stoddard solvent.

Though we must not forget that hint of oil of wintergreen for the enticing fragrance! LOL!

So, for those willing to dump WD40 into their crankcase for it's "mad cleaning powaz, yo!" then yes, I'm sure they would be served equally as well with Seafoam.

HOWEVER

For those who don't feel that entertaining the idea of putting solvent in with their engine oil and driving about is all that bright, then yes, I'd imagine that calling it a "snake oil" in this context is quite accurate.

My owners manual doesn't say "don't put additives in with your engine oil, except Seafoam because it's the freakin' bees knees and will rock you out so hard your gums are going to bleed". No, it doesn't say anything of the sort. Manufacturers advise that you use an engine oil meeting the approvals required for your vehicle in the sump. They advise this because they designed the bloody engine and probably know what they are talking about.

And it isn't that manufacturers are opposed to additives and treaments in general. Ford sells Motorcraft injector cleaner, fuel system treatment....etc. GM sells their combustion chamber cleaner, Engine Oil Supplement, injector cleaner...etc and so does Mother Mopar. But none of them sell magic crankcase solvent and there is likely a reason for that.
 
Good post OVERK1LL

The reason is "we are in the market to sell cars and our brethren dealer's are here for service".

Nothing more, nothing less.

Some people have the know how/how to.... no need for Mechanics/dealers/snake oils....
 
Originally Posted By: PZR2874
Good post OVERK1LL

The reason is "we are in the market to sell cars and our brethren dealer's are here for service".

Nothing more, nothing less.

Some people have the know how/how to.... no need for Mechanics/dealers/snake oils....


I've maintained many an engine. I've also torn down a number of engines over the years. A properly maintained engine (read: an engine maintained in the manner in which the manufacturer prescribes) will in most cases, barring a design defect, outlast the vehicle it is fitted to. This means changing the oil, maintaining the PCV system and keeping it in tune. No additives needed.

I've never owned an engine that needed stoddard solvent dumped in the crank case to clean something up. Some gentle cleaning was done on my Expedition by Mobil 1 and Redline lubricants after a life on dealer bulk oil for the 150,000Km that were put on it before we owned it.

Seafoam works reasonable well for cleaning a Ford IAC valve for example. Dissolving carbon, used on a rag to remove varnish....etc. But I don't think it has any place in a crankcase. Oils are designed to keep an engine clean when changed at the prescribed interval dictated by the OEM or oil manufacturer (depending on who's schedule you follow) and my experience has shown me that this works quite well. Diluting a properly formulated lubricant with solvent and bright stock not only thins the oil, but effects its lubricity, dilutes the additive package and essentially makes it less effective at what it was designed to do: properly lubricate your engine.

On a poorly maintained engine, while I can see the solvent breaking free deposits in the crankcase, I can also see those deposits clogging a filter, blocking the pick-up....etc. And even if this "cleaning" is deemed effective based on its use in this type of scenario, to what end? What has the dilution of the lubricant with a solvent done to the lubricant's effectiveness at its primary role?

There is a reason Mobil, Shell, Castrol, the Conoco family...etc don't manufacture solvents to dump in your crankcase. It isn't like they don't have the capability. Heck, it isn't like they don't already manufacture solvents. So this begs the question as to how much sense it really makes to be doing something that nobody but the blender of the solvent-based product recommends doing to your vehicle.
 
Originally Posted By: PZR2874
Using SeaFoam and snake oil in the same sentence is just plain ignorance.


Agreed.
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