Now the cigarette lighter seems to have stopped working (for charging the phone.)
... What fuse is that? And where are the fuses? (I need to know this for when my ABS unit from Midwest ABS comes.)
GT's Running Volvo thread. The 00 XC
- Thread starter GearheadTool
- Start date
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Car is about to take my dear friend to work.
It has been behaving pretty well, since the brakes got done in the video you saw. All else continues as discussed.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2791896#Post2791896
It has been behaving pretty well, since the brakes got done in the video you saw. All else continues as discussed.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2791896#Post2791896
Has the timing belt been changed?
Originally Posted By: Volvohead
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Job cost $162. I have proof.
Just curious, but what exactly did he replace for that price?
Rear brake pads, two of them. I have the invoice. Sam LOOVES me.
This video gives description, must click and open in new tab/window http://s1051.photobucket.com/albums/s434...zpsd4dc60fe.mp4
Timing belt fund continues. I drive her easy enough to get 22MPG. No singing gigs for my ladyfriend for a month or two, so...
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Job cost $162. I have proof.
Just curious, but what exactly did he replace for that price?
Rear brake pads, two of them. I have the invoice. Sam LOOVES me.
This video gives description, must click and open in new tab/window http://s1051.photobucket.com/albums/s434...zpsd4dc60fe.mp4
Timing belt fund continues. I drive her easy enough to get 22MPG. No singing gigs for my ladyfriend for a month or two, so...
Just the pads? That's not really that cheap then. The rotors looked like they should have been replaced, too.
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Just the pads? That's not really that cheap then. The rotors looked like they should have been replaced, too.
We thought it was going to be a $400 or $500+ job. He replaced both side of the rear axle's pads, and spent some time doing something with each side's rotors and calipers. Car was up on the lift for about 4 hours, and the oil was changed as well. That one side was in bad shape.
We still have rent due and the car stops really well.. fronts still have not been touched. But our goal is T-belt before the end of the year.
I am changing the ABS myself because he mentioned that "It could be reprogrammed." Midwest-ABS (and I did order that part) disagrees for my model year.
Just the pads? That's not really that cheap then. The rotors looked like they should have been replaced, too.
We thought it was going to be a $400 or $500+ job. He replaced both side of the rear axle's pads, and spent some time doing something with each side's rotors and calipers. Car was up on the lift for about 4 hours, and the oil was changed as well. That one side was in bad shape.
We still have rent due and the car stops really well.. fronts still have not been touched. But our goal is T-belt before the end of the year.
I am changing the ABS myself because he mentioned that "It could be reprogrammed." Midwest-ABS (and I did order that part) disagrees for my model year.
Just an update so far:
1. The T-belt fund continues.
2. I decided against A-RX. (VH is right.. better things to spend on.)
3. The CTEK is on the way, to show this battery some lovin'. My thread on the battery
4. It runs decently on 87-grade gas, and I am unsure if I want to keep putting 89 in there. Also I put in some Redline SI-1 (3oz. first dose, then 3 1oz. dose for future fill-ups.. repeat) and I may continue with 87-octane (They are right, compression on Turbo engine IS lower than NA engine. Please confirm. 8.5:1 on Turbo to 10:1 on NA..)
5. The ABS module from Midwest-ABS came yesterday afternoon and I am endeavoring to install it some time today! I need clarification as to whether the CHECK ENGINE light will go off after install, OR if I should have Advance "clear the codes" (read them with OBDII tool,) THEN install the ABS right there in their lot, to try to best clear the Check Engine light. It included the socket and I will re-watch the install vid, but any other tips?...
1. The T-belt fund continues.
2. I decided against A-RX. (VH is right.. better things to spend on.)
3. The CTEK is on the way, to show this battery some lovin'. My thread on the battery
4. It runs decently on 87-grade gas, and I am unsure if I want to keep putting 89 in there. Also I put in some Redline SI-1 (3oz. first dose, then 3 1oz. dose for future fill-ups.. repeat) and I may continue with 87-octane (They are right, compression on Turbo engine IS lower than NA engine. Please confirm. 8.5:1 on Turbo to 10:1 on NA..)
5. The ABS module from Midwest-ABS came yesterday afternoon and I am endeavoring to install it some time today! I need clarification as to whether the CHECK ENGINE light will go off after install, OR if I should have Advance "clear the codes" (read them with OBDII tool,) THEN install the ABS right there in their lot, to try to best clear the Check Engine light. It included the socket and I will re-watch the install vid, but any other tips?...
OK! I just replaced the ABS unit!
Now I wonder how long I need to drive around before all goes back to normal. Behavior is at its worst the first minute I turned the key...
Now I wonder how long I need to drive around before all goes back to normal. Behavior is at its worst the first minute I turned the key...
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Just the pads? That's not really that cheap then. The rotors looked like they should have been replaced, too.
We thought it was going to be a $400 or $500+ job. He replaced both side of the rear axle's pads, and spent some time doing something with each side's rotors and calipers. Car was up on the lift for about 4 hours, and the oil was changed as well. That one side was in bad shape.
We still have rent due and the car stops really well.. fronts still have not been touched. But our goal is T-belt before the end of the year.
I am changing the ABS myself because he mentioned that "It could be reprogrammed." Midwest-ABS (and I did order that part) disagrees for my model year.
Four hours to change rear pads and the oil?
I hope he didn't charge you for all the hours he was under there. The labour cost involved in doing discs and pads rather than just pads is similar.
I would only do just pads of the discs were in excellent condition. The discs on the rear of your Volvo that you posted pictures of will rip the new pads to bits in a lot less miles than you may think. So it is sometimes false economy to not change the discs(rotors) hopefully he spent his time cleaning up the caliper that looked to be siezed or partially siezed.
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Just the pads? That's not really that cheap then. The rotors looked like they should have been replaced, too.
We thought it was going to be a $400 or $500+ job. He replaced both side of the rear axle's pads, and spent some time doing something with each side's rotors and calipers. Car was up on the lift for about 4 hours, and the oil was changed as well. That one side was in bad shape.
We still have rent due and the car stops really well.. fronts still have not been touched. But our goal is T-belt before the end of the year.
I am changing the ABS myself because he mentioned that "It could be reprogrammed." Midwest-ABS (and I did order that part) disagrees for my model year.
Four hours to change rear pads and the oil?
I hope he didn't charge you for all the hours he was under there. The labour cost involved in doing discs and pads rather than just pads is similar.
I would only do just pads of the discs were in excellent condition. The discs on the rear of your Volvo that you posted pictures of will rip the new pads to bits in a lot less miles than you may think. So it is sometimes false economy to not change the discs(rotors) hopefully he spent his time cleaning up the caliper that looked to be siezed or partially siezed.
Just read earlier posts.
£162 for pads and an oil change. I can see why Sam loves you.
£162 for pads and an oil change. I can see why Sam loves you.
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Just an update so far:
. . .
3. The CTEK is on the way, to show this battery some lovin'. My thread on the battery
You're better off just buying a new battery instead of a smart charger for a DD . . . and the correct $5 battery hold-down clip that has been mentioned to you about 5 times already, instead of that half-backside cargo strap that is about to snap.
Smart chargers like the Ctek are great for cars that sit unused for weeks or months at a time. They're generally unnecessary on a car that is getting driven every couple days.
A NAPA Legend Group 48 is about $130 with core return and is a Deka - about the best battery there is. On your tight budget, AA also offers super deals for considerably less on their gold series, which is a JC, IIRC, also a good battery. Buy the larger Group 48 either way.
And spend the $5 on a hold-down clip.
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
4. It runs decently on 87-grade gas, and I am unsure if I want to keep putting 89 in there. Also I put in some Redline SI-1 (3oz. first dose, then 3 1oz. dose for future fill-ups.. repeat) and I may continue with 87-octane (They are right, compression on Turbo engine IS lower than NA engine. Please confirm. 8.5:1 on Turbo to 10:1 on NA..)
NO. You don't run regular octane fuel in these turbos. Again, you've been told this repeatedly. At $4/gallon, you're also getting less miles per dollar - the real measure. Premium is only 5% more at that price (at least around here).
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
5. The ABS module from Midwest-ABS came yesterday afternoon and I am endeavoring to install it some time today! I need clarification as to whether the CHECK ENGINE light will go off after install, OR if I should have Advance "clear the codes" (read them with OBDII tool,) THEN install the ABS right there in their lot, to try to best clear the Check Engine light. It included the socket and I will re-watch the install vid, but any other tips?...
The ABS module will turn off the ABS lamp and fix the speedo drop outs. It doesn't normally involve a MIL. If you have a MIL lamp lit, it may be something else is also wrong.
Just an update so far:
. . .
3. The CTEK is on the way, to show this battery some lovin'. My thread on the battery
You're better off just buying a new battery instead of a smart charger for a DD . . . and the correct $5 battery hold-down clip that has been mentioned to you about 5 times already, instead of that half-backside cargo strap that is about to snap.
Smart chargers like the Ctek are great for cars that sit unused for weeks or months at a time. They're generally unnecessary on a car that is getting driven every couple days.
A NAPA Legend Group 48 is about $130 with core return and is a Deka - about the best battery there is. On your tight budget, AA also offers super deals for considerably less on their gold series, which is a JC, IIRC, also a good battery. Buy the larger Group 48 either way.
And spend the $5 on a hold-down clip.
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
4. It runs decently on 87-grade gas, and I am unsure if I want to keep putting 89 in there. Also I put in some Redline SI-1 (3oz. first dose, then 3 1oz. dose for future fill-ups.. repeat) and I may continue with 87-octane (They are right, compression on Turbo engine IS lower than NA engine. Please confirm. 8.5:1 on Turbo to 10:1 on NA..)
NO. You don't run regular octane fuel in these turbos. Again, you've been told this repeatedly. At $4/gallon, you're also getting less miles per dollar - the real measure. Premium is only 5% more at that price (at least around here).
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
5. The ABS module from Midwest-ABS came yesterday afternoon and I am endeavoring to install it some time today! I need clarification as to whether the CHECK ENGINE light will go off after install, OR if I should have Advance "clear the codes" (read them with OBDII tool,) THEN install the ABS right there in their lot, to try to best clear the Check Engine light. It included the socket and I will re-watch the install vid, but any other tips?...
The ABS module will turn off the ABS lamp and fix the speedo drop outs. It doesn't normally involve a MIL. If you have a MIL lamp lit, it may be something else is also wrong.
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Originally Posted By: Volvohead
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Job cost $162. I have proof.
Just curious, but what exactly did he replace for that price?
Rear brake pads, two of them. I have the invoice. Sam LOOVES me.
$160 for a pad slap? That's full freight including labor using top-shelf/OEM parts. That's all I thought was done at that price.
But those brakes needed more than a pad slap, IMO. It will need another brake job sooner rather than later.
He "loves" you, but not the way you're thinking.
Still, some brakes is better than no brakes.
Sorry to learn about the vandals. That's a shame.
Originally Posted By: Volvohead
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Job cost $162. I have proof.
Just curious, but what exactly did he replace for that price?
Rear brake pads, two of them. I have the invoice. Sam LOOVES me.
$160 for a pad slap? That's full freight including labor using top-shelf/OEM parts. That's all I thought was done at that price.
But those brakes needed more than a pad slap, IMO. It will need another brake job sooner rather than later.
He "loves" you, but not the way you're thinking.
Still, some brakes is better than no brakes.
Sorry to learn about the vandals. That's a shame.
Originally Posted By: Volvohead
He "loves" you, but not the way you're thinking.
Exactly. Shop sounds like they know the have a sucker.
I wonder if GT asked for a quote BEFORE the work was agreed to, he should have asked here first.
To simply put pads on that car I would say no more than 100$ tops, and they should have been OEM for that price.
He "loves" you, but not the way you're thinking.
Exactly. Shop sounds like they know the have a sucker.
I wonder if GT asked for a quote BEFORE the work was agreed to, he should have asked here first.
To simply put pads on that car I would say no more than 100$ tops, and they should have been OEM for that price.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Just the pads? That's not really that cheap then. The rotors looked like they should have been replaced, too.
UPDATE! On the second try, and REALLY pressing it in the ABS unit (I am of the opinion it was not connected when i first took off, I even tightened the bolts.. got it on the 2nd try,) - :
1. The ABS lights are off and have stayed off.
2. No more speedo dropout.
3. No more lines across the odometer.
4. No more flashing transmission arrow.
However, I still have P0722, P1633, an Evap leak code, and the guy said there may be a plugged CAT code. So the Check Engine light remains on.
Thinking of that VIDA DICE code clearer, to see what comes back and what stays!
And by the way, as to the brakes. Is $160 for two pads installed good or bad? *He also saved the one caliper and did something with both rotors. All in all, he had the car up on there for about three almost 4 hours, yet charged two hours labor. I have a feeling they may have been resurfaced or grinded, both sides rotors, and the caliper was re-used. The invoice says "Two hours labor and pads" but the car had groaning/grinding no rear brakes when it came in.. I do not know if that changes anything? You can see I did the ABS module myself, since he said "they could be reprogrammed" and I had verified that for that year, that was incorrect.
I even had to do a panic stop that was so severe my headlight had to be replaced (bulb not lens) and the brakes.. feel pretty [censored] good. Just the minorest of whistling, but that is it.
Timing belt and Check Engine light would be his next jobs.. I am saying he may have charged 3-4 hours labor as two hours, if that changed anything.
Correct, the NEW part installed was the pads... however, more work was performed, as their car basically came in with no back brakes, at least at that one tire that had brake fluid everywhere. See video!
Just the pads? That's not really that cheap then. The rotors looked like they should have been replaced, too.
UPDATE! On the second try, and REALLY pressing it in the ABS unit (I am of the opinion it was not connected when i first took off, I even tightened the bolts.. got it on the 2nd try,) - :
1. The ABS lights are off and have stayed off.
2. No more speedo dropout.
3. No more lines across the odometer.
4. No more flashing transmission arrow.
However, I still have P0722, P1633, an Evap leak code, and the guy said there may be a plugged CAT code. So the Check Engine light remains on.
Thinking of that VIDA DICE code clearer, to see what comes back and what stays!
And by the way, as to the brakes. Is $160 for two pads installed good or bad? *He also saved the one caliper and did something with both rotors. All in all, he had the car up on there for about three almost 4 hours, yet charged two hours labor. I have a feeling they may have been resurfaced or grinded, both sides rotors, and the caliper was re-used. The invoice says "Two hours labor and pads" but the car had groaning/grinding no rear brakes when it came in.. I do not know if that changes anything? You can see I did the ABS module myself, since he said "they could be reprogrammed" and I had verified that for that year, that was incorrect.
I even had to do a panic stop that was so severe my headlight had to be replaced (bulb not lens) and the brakes.. feel pretty [censored] good. Just the minorest of whistling, but that is it.
Timing belt and Check Engine light would be his next jobs.. I am saying he may have charged 3-4 hours labor as two hours, if that changed anything.
Correct, the NEW part installed was the pads... however, more work was performed, as their car basically came in with no back brakes, at least at that one tire that had brake fluid everywhere. See video!
You're really not supposed to "turn" unventilated rotors nowadays, and especially not on that car.
"Brake fluid everywhere" before the job? He had to do something with a caliper seal or a line then.
I'm sure it's safe, as he has to keep his insurance carrier happy.
But that was a band-aid job to fit your wallet. Again, not necessarily wrong. From the evolving storyline, perhaps that's all this car will ever need.
Evap leak? They all get them. Need to smoke test to find it. Don't throw parts at it. Ignore it for now.
You don't need VIDA or DICE right now.
Although, the more I and others try to guide you, the more I get the sense you are hearing very little.
"Brake fluid everywhere" before the job? He had to do something with a caliper seal or a line then.
I'm sure it's safe, as he has to keep his insurance carrier happy.
But that was a band-aid job to fit your wallet. Again, not necessarily wrong. From the evolving storyline, perhaps that's all this car will ever need.
Evap leak? They all get them. Need to smoke test to find it. Don't throw parts at it. Ignore it for now.
You don't need VIDA or DICE right now.
Although, the more I and others try to guide you, the more I get the sense you are hearing very little.
So long as there is sufficient disc thickness left after refacing then I have nothing against disc skimming. Especially if it is due to rust damage due to a siezed caliper.
If the $162 includes disc refacing then the pads will last as long as if new discs(rotors) have been fitted.
Though not best case scenario it is acceptable in a low budget situation such as this.
Better to have refaced Volvo discs than new Chinese discs IMHO. Aslong as the discs are still with tolerance/wear limits.
I can't help but think the OP will spend more than if they had bought a better vehicle in the first instance though.
Cars like Subarus and Older Volvos do have expensive parts, some more recent Volvos are not so bad due to the fact some are based on shared Ford platforms.
If the $162 includes disc refacing then the pads will last as long as if new discs(rotors) have been fitted.
Though not best case scenario it is acceptable in a low budget situation such as this.
Better to have refaced Volvo discs than new Chinese discs IMHO. Aslong as the discs are still with tolerance/wear limits.
I can't help but think the OP will spend more than if they had bought a better vehicle in the first instance though.
Cars like Subarus and Older Volvos do have expensive parts, some more recent Volvos are not so bad due to the fact some are based on shared Ford platforms.
There is very little "meat" on those rotors (very small difference between new thickness and minimum thickness). Given how rusty they were, I doubt that rust could have been removed by turning without going below minimum thickness.
New Centric rotors for this car would have been $42 each...even OE or Brembos would have been $56 each.
New rotors would have been the right way to do this, with good rotor thickness and fewer future problems...and in fact, that approach was recommended...
New Centric rotors for this car would have been $42 each...even OE or Brembos would have been $56 each.
New rotors would have been the right way to do this, with good rotor thickness and fewer future problems...and in fact, that approach was recommended...
Originally Posted By: bigjl
If the $162 includes disc refacing then the pads will last as long as if new discs(rotors) have been fitted.
That's never been my experience the few times we tried it on these unventilated ones. They always warp prematurely in under 20k miles.
The modern rotors don't have the stock over-margin that the oldies used to have. Especially the unventilated ones, which are disposable parts in my book.
I doubt it will become a problem in this instance, however. I'm thinking this one's a "lifetime" job.
If you've been looking at some of GT's recent posts and purchases, this is all just so much useless chatter that is going in one ear, and right on out the other.
End of this thread for me. Full stop. Thanks for playing. Where's my Rice-A-Roni?
If the $162 includes disc refacing then the pads will last as long as if new discs(rotors) have been fitted.
That's never been my experience the few times we tried it on these unventilated ones. They always warp prematurely in under 20k miles.
The modern rotors don't have the stock over-margin that the oldies used to have. Especially the unventilated ones, which are disposable parts in my book.
I doubt it will become a problem in this instance, however. I'm thinking this one's a "lifetime" job.
If you've been looking at some of GT's recent posts and purchases, this is all just so much useless chatter that is going in one ear, and right on out the other.
End of this thread for me. Full stop. Thanks for playing. Where's my Rice-A-Roni?
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