Oil for a Direct Injection engine?

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Originally Posted By: lexus114
These DI motor`s in question here dont by any chance call for a higher octane fuel do they?

Hyundai specifically does not mandate the use of premium fuel.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: lexus114
These DI motor`s in question here dont by any chance call for a higher octane fuel do they?

Hyundai specifically does not mandate the use of premium fuel.



Okay, trying to figure out the rich burn.
 
Yes - Hyundai does not require premium fuel for their normally-aspirated 1.6L GDI engine. It does have a somewhat higher compression, though (11.0:1, if I remember correctly) - could this be another reason for running rich?
 
TheOtherGoose said:
Yes - Hyundai does not require premium fuel for their normally-aspirated 1.6L GDI engine. It does have a somewhat higher compression, though (11.0:1, if I remember correctly) - could this be another reason for running rich?co

The high compression ratio in DI engines is possible because rapid evaporation of ambient-temperature gasoline in the cylinder cools things down and inhibits pre-ignition. I wouldn't have thought a richer mixture was necessary to make this work, particularly as the primary benefit of DI is increased fuel efficiency. FWIW, Ford suggests regular for the Focus DI engine, too.
 
I also own a 1.6L GDI 2012 Accent.

I only put 87 octane gas. My MPGs have been great and on the money considering I drive 40/60 city/hwy and I average 34-37mpg depending on driving style.

I have also put in many different types of oil since I've owned it, which, by the way, I'm nearing 27,000 miles on the odometer.

In the manual, Hyundai recommends Quaker State, which is cheap in terms of price.

Here's a list of oils I've had in my car so far. Note, that I have not done any UOAs, at least not yet.

-Factory fill
-Mobil Super
-Kendall conventional
-Kendal Liquid Titanium
-Quaker State green bottle
-Pennzoil (yellow bottle)
-Quaker State ultimate durability
-Castrol GTX (gold bottle)

I would suggest you give quaker state a try and see if you like it. I also suggest that if you are going to buy the green-bottle quaker state, then change it every 3000 miles. The gold colored quaker state synthetic is better, but I wouldn't go beyond 4,000 miles on it. I ahve noticed that when I had the green bottle QS, beginning around 2500 miles, the engine noise was slightly more noticeable and accelerating felt harsher rather than the smooth acceleration you get from fresh oil. Using the quaker state gold bottle did not generate this noise during the tail end of the OCI, and neither did using the pennzoil yellow bottle. But this is all anecdotal.

So as far as oil goes, I'd recommend a high quality conventional, such as pennzoil, or synthetic. I'm liking my castrol gtx. No noise whatsoever and I'm nearing my 3k interval. I'm still changing it within the limit so that if any warranty issue crops up, my service intervals aren't called into question. Oh and BUY HYUNDAI OEM FILTERS. These engines are finicky and the OEM filters are top notch filters.

As for "rich burn", well there have been ECU updated for our 1.6L GDI engines where fuel ratio has been modified slightly.

I would take it to the dealership to see if there are any updates for your car.

You also do not need to use fuel system cleaner if you are putting in top-tier gas, such as Chevron, BP, Shell, etc. which have fuel detergents that prevent carbon build-up, which is very detrimental for GDI engines.

Carbon build-up is much more noticeable in our GDI engines as your MPGs will suffer.

Originally Posted By: TheOtherGoose
Yes - Hyundai does not require premium fuel for their normally-aspirated 1.6L GDI engine. It does have a somewhat higher compression, though (11.0:1, if I remember correctly) - could this be another reason for running rich?


GDI allows for high compression, hence GDI is almost like a diesel engine. The high compression actually allows for less fuel to be used.

Short trips are also detrimental since the lower temp of the engine does not help dissipate fuel dilution in the oil, so try and drive the car up to normal operating temps. This will help keep the oil in the engine last as long as it needs to be.
 
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I'll be doing an oil change on my DI CX-5 and another on our 3.0L Equinox here in another week or so, I plan on getting UOA on both of them, if people are interested in seeing them.
 
As badtlc mentioned, it's because of emission regulations. The U.S. has tighter NOx standards than Europe. The three way catalytic converters used cannot meet U.S. levels when run as lean as they are run in Europe.

The oxidation of CO to CO2, and hydrocarbons to H20 and CO2 requires an oxidizing(fuel lean, oxygen rich) environment. The reduction of NOx to N2 and O2 requires a reducing(rich, oxygen depleted) environment.

The standard 14.7 ratio used in the U.S. is a compromise that allows the catalytic converter to operate in a range that is effective for CO, HC, and NOx. If run leaner, NOx rises.

Ed
 
Originally Posted By: lexus114
I`m sorry, but since when does running rich make it better for Emissions?


As stated, when it comes to NOx. That's true whether a converter is present or not. Leaner, higher temperature burns produce more NOx. When a three way catalyst is in place it must be operating at stoichiometric or richer. The oxidation part of the catalytic reaction easily handles the excess hydrocarbons.

Ed
 
Originally Posted By: lexus114
I`m sorry, but since when does running rich make it better for Emissions?

Running a specific air:fuel ratio affects the temperature of the catalytic converter and therefore its performance, and therefore what and in what proportions comes out of the tail pipe.
 
Being one of the new guys, I'm glad I could contribute to the forum with a decent topic.
grin.gif


Thanks for the great info. Always OEM filters for me as well - no criticism meant for those who use aftermarket ones. I did notice the Quaker State recommendation in my car's owner's manual and will look into its availability in my area. Since I go to my local Kroger grocery for the gas discount, I'll probably use the Techron since I assume their gas isn't top tier. I also am assuming that, being a 2013 model, my ECU has the latest updates (I'll be sure to check for any TSB's, though).
 
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Originally Posted By: Danh
TheOtherGoose said:
Yes - Hyundai does not require premium fuel for their normally-aspirated 1.6L GDI engine. It does have a somewhat higher compression, though (11.0:1, if I remember correctly) - could this be another reason for running rich?co

The high compression ratio in DI engines is possible because rapid evaporation of ambient-temperature gasoline in the cylinder cools things down and inhibits pre-ignition. I wouldn't have thought a richer mixture was necessary to make this work, particularly as the primary benefit of DI is increased fuel efficiency. FWIW, Ford suggests regular for the Focus DI engine, too.


And for the ecoboosts as well but states premium could be beneficial during hot weather or towing.
 
The engineers at Toyota Research & Development/Denso have known since the late 90's
the best method to prevent carbon deposit formation on fuel injectors in DI gas engines
lies more importantly in keeping the residual fuel in the nozzle holes in a liquid state so any deposits are washed away by fuel injection before compression-power stroke.

Technical Paper
 
If you fill with premium, you can feel the extra power on the wheels as well as see the increase in MPG. If I use 87, I would probably get about 24-25 MPG with the way I drive. With 91, I'm getting at least 27 MPG. Acceleration is smoother as well and much more quieter. I think 87 gave me knocking sounds when I used it.
 
I don't know where all the rich thoughts come from, my 2011 Sonata runs in the 14.0 to 14.7 range according to the commanded AFR ratios. 14.7 occurs at startup and then it runs 14.0-14.5. Only time I ever saw it in the 13 range was during wfo.

Maybe you guys getting all the fuel dilution have a heavy foot...
 
While not a Hyundai, I have a Cadillac CTS with the 3.6 DI engine that has run Mobil 1 all its life with very good results. Car has 68k miles on it, no carbon buildup that I can tell. Of course, I do spray carb cleaner down the intake every other oil change or so to "wash" the valves.
 
2011 to my knowledge was the start for techron and just for the DI's. +1^ on the 93. I could feel timing being pulled at knock events on WFO when running 87. Hyundai admits 10 hp and similar torque added when on premium. The HP values on the 2.0T genesis coupe (not DI) are only peak when run on premium. Definitely have a heavy foot, lol! The videos and multimedia when the 2.0T DI were new and the hubub started showed a bit of overlap on the valves when the injectors were spraying. IIRC a split event cycle on the injectors. Sure, they run fine on 87, the computers are good. But it's worth a length to 3rd gear - a buddy has one and the wife only runs 87. When we run I always slowly walk him. That's the 10 hp. I don't think the 93 would help much on the NA versions...hp, run smoothness or mileage - but I have no experience here.
 
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