How the ICE works.

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Found these two videos on YouTube. They're old but are truly great imo, they helped me understand a lot!
 
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About 40 years ago, when I was 6 or 7, my dad and I built this:
http://www.revell.com/model-kits/engines/85-8883.html

I still have that thing stored away somewhere. I did notice the kit we had was electrically powered (a real starter motor) and it had tiny little sparkplugs with lights that ran off of a distributor. It would fire (light) the plugs in sequence as the engine rotated.
 
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Originally Posted By: punisher
About 40 years ago, when I was 6 or 7, my dad and I built this:
http://www.revell.com/model-kits/engines/85-8883.html

I still have that thing stored away somewhere. I did notice the kit we had was electrically powered (a real starter motor) and it had tiny little sparkplugs with lights that ran off of a distributor. It would fire (light) the plugs in sequence as the engine rotated.



Me too. -20 years.
 
To bad they can snow one about how an engine gets ripped up if it is ran with the oil idiot light on and not enough oil in it for the pick-up of the oil pump to get any oil.
 
Originally Posted By: punisher
About 40 years ago, when I was 6 or 7, my dad and I built this:
http://www.revell.com/model-kits/engines/85-8883.html

I still have that thing stored away somewhere. I did notice the kit we had was electrically powered (a real starter motor) and it had tiny little sparkplugs with lights that ran off of a distributor. It would fire (light) the plugs in sequence as the engine rotated.


I still have mine. Made by Renwal. No box but have the manual. Probably much bigger Revell bought them out. Seems to be the same. Sad what kids are missing today.

http://www.rubylane.com/item/167844-1094...CFUjhQgodlDcAew
 
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Originally Posted By: user52165
Originally Posted By: punisher
About 40 years ago, when I was 6 or 7, my dad and I built this:
http://www.revell.com/model-kits/engines/85-8883.html

I still have that thing stored away somewhere. I did notice the kit we had was electrically powered (a real starter motor) and it had tiny little sparkplugs with lights that ran off of a distributor. It would fire (light) the plugs in sequence as the engine rotated.


I still have mine. Made by Renwal. No box but have the manual. Probably much bigger Revell bought them out. Seems to be the same. Sad what kids are missing today.

http://www.rubylane.com/item/167844-1094...CFUjhQgodlDcAew



Thats the one I had because I remember the father and son picture on the box.
 
I have a question. The explosion pushes the piston down the cylinder and the crank shaft turns to push it back up, but which comes first? When you turn the ignition, are you essentially turning the on switch for the spark plugs to begin sparking which pushes the pistons downward and then momentum carries the piston back up? Or when you turn the ignition are initiating the crank shaft to rotate which pushes the piston upward and then the spark pushes it back down? Likewise when you accelerate are you telling the crank shaft to rotate more quickly which in turn creates more up/down strokes which in turn makes the flywheel turn quicker?
 
^^^ When you accelerate you are opening the throttle more so more air and more fuel can go into each cylinder during the intake, and therefore the increase in fuel and air to burn that fuel causes a increase in the force pushing the piston down and if the opposing force (load of moving the vehicle) remains the same the additional force on the pistons causes the engine to turn faster, and also makes more power available to the drive train.
 
There use to be a kit for the Honda 750 4 cylinder motorcycle engine. While I did not have the plastic kit, I did have a new 1980 Honda 750 K motorcycle. That engine had duel intake and exhaust, and ran so smooth you would think it was an electric motor.
 
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So, when will they have a kit that, first you put together the guts of the motor, then you assemble the VVT mechanism, then you put on all the sensors? And finally takes you through the maps in the ECU that makes it all work?

wink.gif
 
Ok so let me see if I got this correct.

You turn the ignition which activates the starter. The starter extends the bendix drive into the flywheel and turns the flywheel until combustion occurs. Once this combustion occurs the bendix retracts. So with the bendix retracted is the piston down force causing momentum for the upswing portion of the crankshaft or is the crankshaft actually pushing the piston upward? I guess, is the crankshaft a free floating shaft that spins at a rate that the pistons dictate or do the pistons go up and down at a rate dictated by what the crankshaft allows?
 
Ever since I saw how the Diesel cycle works, I always considered it to be better than the Otto(Gasoline) combustion cycle.

It is just such a shame that it isn't as easy to produce HP with a Diesel than with gasoline.
 
Originally Posted By: RamFan
Ok so let me see if I got this correct.

You turn the ignition which activates the starter. The starter extends the bendix drive into the flywheel and turns the flywheel until combustion occurs. Once this combustion occurs the bendix retracts. So with the bendix retracted is the piston down force causing momentum for the upswing portion of the crankshaft or is the crankshaft actually pushing the piston upward? I guess, is the crankshaft a free floating shaft that spins at a rate that the pistons dictate or do the pistons go up and down at a rate dictated by what the crankshaft allows?


In a single cyl lawnmower, momentum keeps the rotation going until combustion occurs every other rotation. With multiple cylinders like in a car engine, a combination of momentum and other cylinders firing keep the crank rotating.
 
The momentum in a single cylinder is stored in rotational inertia.

Try to run a single cylinder lawn mower without the blade and it probably will stall because much of the storage of rotational inertia is in the weight of the blade swinging around.

The more cylinders an engine has the less it has to rely on rotational inertia.
 
Originally Posted By: supton
So, when will they have a kit that, first you put together the guts of the motor, then you assemble the VVT mechanism, then you put on all the sensors? And finally takes you through the maps in the ECU that makes it all work?

wink.gif



It is hard to tell for sure that some of these questions are not a joke, but 40 years ago the engines had points that completed the 12 VDC leg of the autotransformer. The capacator across the points protected the points from arcking. And the points were opened when the lobe on the cam on the shaft of the distributor caused them to move enough to make them open.

There was no ECU. No MassAirFlowSensor. No fuel injectors. Not one transistor on the entire engine.

Some vehicles still had a relay that was tuned to close a contact if the voltage of the battery was too low. That closed contact would supply power to energize the alternator. These were being phased out by transistor voltage regulators that had a few transistors in it, like about two to five depending on the design). And if the vehicle had a transistorized voltage regulator that was the only thing under the hod that had transistors. There was no computer (or microprocessor) anywhere in the entire vehicle. And the only other place in the vehicle you could find transistors was inside of the radio, and those probably had less than two dozen transistors in them.
 
I remember the time we picked up an old clunker of a station wagon that had been sitting in a back yard for many years. The points were rusty so it had no spark. We filed the points with the striker from a pack of matches, and used the stem of a match to set the gap on the points to about 30/1000. Cranked one car battery dead and put it in the running car, and with the battery just removed from the running car got it to start. Drove it back to the garage on back streets because all the glass had been broken out of it. We got $25 for removing it, and sold it for $50 to someone who wanted it to enter into a demo-derby.
 
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