Non-Silicate, Non-Borate, Non-Amine, Non-Nitrate?

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Hey, how's everybody doing.

I have a Tacoma (2007 PreRunner, V6, Automatic). Planning on changing the coolant myself, but I have a few questions.

1. The FSM calls for an ethylene-glycol-based coolant that is non-silicate, non-borate, non-amine, and non-nitrate...and one that uses "long-life hybrid organic acid technology."

What aftermarket coolants meet these specs?

I was thinking of using Valvoline Max Life Coolant, but it says it contains silicate.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/antifreeze-radiator-products/antifreeze/135

2. The FSM shows 3 drain locations - one in the radiator and two on the engine. If I just open these drains, will all the coolant drain? Or is there something else I need to do in order to get all the coolant out?

http://ncttora.com/fsm/05+/data/ileaf/06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/01600210.pdf

3. Auto Zone sells an attachment that goes on the end of your garden hose to flush the system (made by Prestone, I think). Anybody ever use one of these?


Thanks guys, I've never done a coolant change on a car before but I'd like to learn.
 
given the year 2007, I'm pretty sure it's the Toyota Pink or LL (long life "pink"), which contains phosphorus.

aftermarket? It will cost you an arm and a leg acquiring it.

Look for Zerax Asian or Beck Arnley Asian.

I'd shop around for concentrated Toyota pink (OE) or similar.

Q.
 
I used the Zerex Asian in my Tundra after changing out my water pump. The Zerex is made by Valvoline (Ashland), which is Toyota's supplier for SLLC. The MSDS for both is essentially the same, which helped me in my decision.
 
Its a typical Asian car P-OAT (a sub-class of HOATs in general). Zerex Asian is a good choice.

I've used the PRestone T-flush kits for years, and they work well on older cars with simple cooling systems. I don't use them on newer cars for a couple of reasons. 1) its harder to get all the tap water out of a newer car's cooling system where you're unlikely to be able to get the block drain plugs out. 2) modern car heater control valves and other mechanisms are more complicated/delicate and I don't like blasting them with garden hose pressure, 3) it might not even adequately flush a system with an inlet-side thermostat setup.

Better to just drain and refill with a compatible coolant and distilled water mix on the more frequent (severe service) change schedule, IMO.
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Its a typical Asian car P-OAT (a sub-class of HOATs in general). Zerex Asian is a good choice.

I've used the PRestone T-flush kits for years, and they work well on older cars with simple cooling systems. I don't use them on newer cars for a couple of reasons. 1) its harder to get all the tap water out of a newer car's cooling system where you're unlikely to be able to get the block drain plugs out. 2) modern car heater control valves and other mechanisms are more complicated/delicate and I don't like blasting them with garden hose pressure, 3) it might not even adequately flush a system with an inlet-side thermostat setup.

Better to just drain and refill with a compatible coolant and distilled water mix on the more frequent (severe service) change schedule, IMO.



Good info, thanks.

So, can you enlighten me on what "POAT" and "HOAT" are?

Only reason I was thinking Zerex was, I figured it would be cheaper than the Toyota SLLC Pink. However, I think I may have found a deal on the SLLC.

So, you'd just drain what comes out of the drain ports, refill and call it good?
 
Originally Posted By: john_pifer
.........So, you'd just drain what comes out of the drain ports, refill and call it good?


Yes, call it good, unless this is one of those vehicles that is prone to trapping air in the cooling system. In that case, a Lisle spill-free funnel would be a good tool to have.
 
Thanks guys.

I ended up going with the Zerex Asian that y'all recommended.

Got it at NAPA for $13.49/gal. (50/50). I was going to get the Toyota stuff, since I already had to make a stop there for some of the WS tranny fluid (swapping out my tranny fluid). But they wanted $18.50/gal. and that was for 50/50. And, that is their "wholesale" price, at that! They do not offer the SLLC in concentrate.

For anyone who's curious, the WS trans fluid was $7.93/quart at their "wholesale" price.

Again, thanks for the info, guys. I would not have known what to put in it, other than the OE stuff. Y'all saved me some cash money scrillas. (Little Memphis slang for ya
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: john_pifer


So, can you enlighten me on what "POAT" and "HOAT" are?


HOAT = Hybrid Organic Acid Technology. The corrosion inhibitors use an organic acid plus something like a silicate or phosphate. G-05 is a HOAT because it uses a silicate. The most common Asian coolants (like Toyota pink) are HOAT
because they have a phosphate. DexCool is an OAT, not a HOAT, because it only uses an organic acid and no conventional inhibitor at all.

P-OAT = Phosphate Organic Acid Technology. Its just a HOAT, but for some reason its started getting its own acronym. Asian coolants are usually P-OATs. I guess we could call G-05 a "S-OAT" but why bother. ;-)
 
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Thanks for shedding some light on that.

So, you said Ashland/Valvoline is Toyota's supplier?

Do you think the ZA is the exact same stuff as OE?
 
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