Jumper Cables - How long should they be?

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I was over at NAPA today and was looking at their jumper cables while waiting for
my parts. They had them in 12 ft., 16 ft., and 20 ft. Which ones would you get?
 
The longest ones, I have 20 ft. cables in my car. You never know what situation you may be in when you need a jump.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
I was over at NAPA today and was looking at their jumper cables while waiting for
my parts. They had them in 12 ft., 16 ft., and 20 ft. Which ones would you get?


more important than their length or at least as important..

what gauge cables to get..

I would get 4gauge as a minimum (smaller number is better)
 
Some cars have batteries in the trunk, which might justify longer cables. But they also have jump points under hood.

Thing with longer is they should be lower gauge (thicker wire) to minimize voltage drop. Long and heavy Cu = $$$$$.

I think chances are you an get close enough to not need anything super long.

The shortest and heaviest you can get is best... Longer is useful for reaching stuff easier, but it just gets too long and bulky to transport.
 
The longer the cable the thicker the wire (gauge) you need. As Rand mentions. So as an example, you might get a 12' 4 gauge or a 20' 2 gauge.

An alternative would be to buy welding cable on EBAY and make your own.

Or a jump-pak.

Safety glasses also.
 
Originally Posted By: dparm
Longest possible. In an emergency, longer cables could also serve other uses.


+1
 
Long cables with a thick gauge will pass plenty of current to boost a car. Its important to remember that if your cables aren't chunky enough to start the car, you can always just wait a bit.

Better off charging the dead battery a bit to get a better start anyways.
 
I picked up a set of the DieHard Platnium ones when I got the Mustang back in April. I think they are 20ft ling and are 4ga wire. They came in a spiffy case with safety glasses and gloves for a somewhat reasonable price.
 
Any jumper cables at all. Most people don't carry them anymore or practice safely using them. Or are too nervous to hook them up. They worry about being shocked or shorting the battery.

Get some reasonable quality ones that can still fit in your spare tire well. Cables that are too long generally get left in the garage if they don't stow away nicely.

Do yourself another favor, and get a small plug in electric tire pump. Saves you having to stop by the service station to add air to your tires. Also, if you have a slow leak it can get you to point B.

If your spare tire is flat from not topping it up, you can use said air pump to pump it up if it is needed in an emergency.

Watch some YouTube vids on how to jump a car to do it safely.

Positive to positive, then connect neg on battery post of running car, then connect neg LAST on engine or tranny of car that needs the boost. This is to prevent sparking near a battery that may be leaking Hydrogen gas and may explode.

To disconnect, unhook neg from engine of boosted car first, then neg from car that performed the boost, then the positives and put jumper cables away.
 
There was a spate in the 90s of people buying commercial sets for the clamps only, and running welding lead between them, as it's usually bigger and better insulated.

I've seen long skinny ones get hot when a vehicle was stubborn to crank, but not dangerously, so I don't see the need myself.

To avoid spark/explosion, I usually connect to a big earth on either car, like the engine lifting points if fitted...not much risk on the battery 'though.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
I was over at NAPA today and was looking at their jumper cables while waiting for
my parts. They had them in 12 ft., 16 ft., and 20 ft. Which ones would you get?


Depends....what are you wanting the ability to jump-start?

Big difference between cables that will jump a small gasoline powered car v. a diesel truck.

Again, as others have said, the longest heaviest cable available.
 
I have DieHard jumper cables. They're 15 feet long so I have no problems reaching. People always comment on how nice my cables are.
lol.gif
 
I've been able to jump almost anything with smaller cables as long as
A. The driver needing the jump has the patience (and listening ability) to WAIT while their battery charges up a little bit (amazing how many people just want to jump in and crank once those cables are hooked up)

and

B. That battery will still accept a charge at all.


That said, get the longest and fattest cables you can afford.
 
Originally Posted By: daves87rs
The ones that keep you from shocking yourself....

20 ft are good..what mine are..

Pretty hard to get a shock out of 12 volts. I = E /R
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Some cars have batteries in the trunk, which might justify longer cables. But they also have jump points under hood.

Thing with longer is they should be lower gauge (thicker wire) to minimize voltage drop. Long and heavy Cu = $$$$$.

I think chances are you an get close enough to not need anything super long.

The shortest and heaviest you can get is best... Longer is useful for reaching stuff easier, but it just gets too long and bulky to transport.


This...
 
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