GM 4L60E Fluid and Filter change (with Pictures)

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I had some time off from work today, so I decided to change the transmission fluid and filter in my 2003 Trailblazer that currently has about 130K miles on it. It is a 4L60E transmission and began experiencing a hard 1-2 shift at about 114K miles. The fluid was previously changed by the dealer at about 30K and 70K miles but this is the first time that the pan has ever been off for a filter change. I added Lubeguard Red at about 119K miles and it has helped, but not cured, the shift issue. It is intermittent now, sometimes it shifts the way that it used to before the issue developed but most of the time it shifts firmly; although not as hard as it did before the addition of Lubguard Red.

I dropped the pan and was surprised at how clean it was. What I could see of the filter material also didn't look bad. The fluid still had some red color to it and didn't smell burnt, but was considerably darker than new fluid. I removed the 1-2 accumulator for inspection to see if it wasn't the cause of the overly firm 1-2 shift. It appeared fine to my eye. There were no cracks in the piston or springs and the piston seal was in good shape. I wasn't brave enough to remove the valve body for inspection.

I installed the new filter, replaced the pan, and filled it with Valvoline Dex VI with a bottle of Lubguard Red. I disconnected a line to the transmission cooler and started the engine to pump out the remaining old fluid in the torque converter.

I haven't had a chance to take it out for a good test drive yet to see if there is any noticeable difference in shift quality.

Cheers,
Jeff

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Looks spotless to me. Thanks for the pics. As I am sure you are aware color is not a great sign of the condition of ATF. However if it looks like driverway sealer it might be best to replace it.
 
Great!

I got 183k on mine with 2 Syn flushes. Back up a 3,000Lb. Boat up a hill with it cold a lot & tow a lot. No issues!!

Ya gotta report back with the results.
 
I don't know anyone who replaces the seal, unless they stuff the seal before they realise that they should have left it.

One thing that amazed me when I did the 4L60E on my Caprice was that the filter and gasket kit was less than $15...amazing in this country.
 
I did not replace the seal for the filter. The old one still felt compliant and was a tight fit on the new filter, so I left good enough alone. I tried replacing the seal on a GM transmission several years ago and decided that I wasn't going to do that again. I would guess that the mechanics at the dealer must have a special tool to remove it. Either that, or they don't change them either.
 
I replace the seal. No problems at all. It is easy to do. It is a soft material and you just work at it with a small screw driver and bend it in then pull it out with pliers. Easy!
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
I don't know anyone who replaces the seal, unless they stuff the seal before they realise that they should have left it.

One thing that amazed me when I did the 4L60E on my Caprice was that the filter and gasket kit was less than $15...amazing in this country.

I paid around $10-12 for my MB E430 gasket and filter kit.
 
I've always just used a ladies foot pry bar for the seal. I think this tool is also known as a "spike thing" or "pokey thing" or any other of many names. A steady light push with the bar pops the seal right out every time.
 
I sure hope you reused the original rubber gasket. They are nearly permanent and usually better than anything in the kits.

BTW, that is very clean for the miles. Shows that flushes do work. And Lubegard is a fantastic additive that really does work.
 
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Great work Jeff!

I would expect it to be spotless @ 119K, if it had been serviced at 30K and 70K miles though. Those are about perfect service intervals. Way more than your average owner would do.

Back when I owned my 2005 Trailblazer, I did a cooler line drain and refilled through the dipstick tube when it had under 40K miles on it. Made a heck of a mess too. I didn't expect this 4L60E to fill a gallon jug in less than 10sec.

Joel
 
That's true only under a specific set of operating parameters.

Everybody is different, hence differing recommendations.

No single interval is right for everyone.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
I don't know anyone who replaces the seal, unless they stuff the seal before they realise that they should have left it.
It's deja-vu all over again!
Originally Posted By: SnPb
I tried replacing the seal on a GM transmission several years ago and decided that I wasn't going to do that again.
I thought I was being proactive when I changed the ATF on my work van at 30k (because the company wouldn't do it).I thought the seal was like the one on my Fords and ruined it. Wrapped electrical tape around the filter neck and stuffed it back in. Drove the van to my mechanic and he bailed me out.
Originally Posted By: SnPb
I would guess that the mechanics at the dealer must have a special tool to remove it. Either that, or they don't change them either.
My mechanic indeed had a special tool that grabbed the seal from the inside and allowed him to pull straight down. Popped it right out easy-peasy.
 
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