Ziebart rust protection
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I can't speak for them now but in 1987 when I got my 88 E-150 new I had them shoot it. For about 5 years I went back for the yearly inspection, then they went out of business. I kept up with it myself after that, basically checking for rust, but I never find any. Fast forward to 2012, there isn't one ounce of rust on my van, anywhere. I wish they were still around here. My 93 Aersostar was not treated and the road salt ultimately won on her.
If there was a place like thsi in the Boston area, I would want to take the Volvo to them!
I'd just buy 4 cans of Fluid Film, get the car up on jack stands, grab a creeper, and go nuts. Put a straw on a can and blow it into the door drainage holes at an angle if you really want.
Nail all of your locks with WD-40 so they don't freeze up and to clean them out.
Much cheaper and probably takes only 30 mins, and you inspect for rust at the same time.
The only time I'd research for the best undercoating place in your area is IF YOU PARK IN A HEATED GARAGE.
The reason I'd be inclined to DIY is a lot of these places employ kids who focus on working fast to make the boss happy. Then there is the possibility they do a quick pass to get the car dripping and smelly, then stick it in the lot for you to pick it up.
This is a waste of my time and 100+ dollars in my opinion. Unless you stand there and watch to your satisfaction.
Also, do all of your maintenance on your car that you plan to do before you go (oil change, fluids, etc.). You don't want to work on a car that has just been undercoated, very messy.
It is very important to put Silicone lube on all your door and trunk seals before you go for undercoating as well. This is to prevent the undercoating from melting your door seals if any overspray gets on them. I use Wurth Silicone in the tube that says you can use it on brakes when you lube slider pins etc.
I really do say that doing it yourself is best, as I have heard of places using old engine oil from their own waste tank for the undercoating. This motor oil may have old prestone, brake fluid, ATF etc. mixed in as well, and you can have big problems with your paint and door seals afterwards, so find an honest place, don't cheap out.
If you park in a heated garage, i'd wash the car weekly with a wash and wax (the wax added to the soap would help repel water a bit, and wash down your side windows into the door and leave a waxy film down there too, all while removing abrasive dirt and salts, and minerals).
I'd rinse out the wheel wells extremely well, even up top, and the shocks, brakes, etc. Spray heavy amounts of water on the windshield cowl (the vents just below the wipers) to melt any ice along that tray that may sit there, and rinse out the dirt and salt out of the drainage for your windshield.
If you don't undercoat anything and park in a heated garage, buy a flower watering wand where you can extend the neck 2-3 feet, put it on jet, and spray the whole underneath of the car.
Don't do this if you undercoat, or take it to an automatic car wash that sprays under your car, as you'll wash away the oily protective barrier.
Also, research a new car you plan on purchasing. A Honda may be less prone to rusting than, say, a Mazda of the same year. So research a rust belt car and be a bit choosey, that could save you on many rust issues without you even knowing about it.
Nail all of your locks with WD-40 so they don't freeze up and to clean them out.
Much cheaper and probably takes only 30 mins, and you inspect for rust at the same time.
The only time I'd research for the best undercoating place in your area is IF YOU PARK IN A HEATED GARAGE.
The reason I'd be inclined to DIY is a lot of these places employ kids who focus on working fast to make the boss happy. Then there is the possibility they do a quick pass to get the car dripping and smelly, then stick it in the lot for you to pick it up.
This is a waste of my time and 100+ dollars in my opinion. Unless you stand there and watch to your satisfaction.
Also, do all of your maintenance on your car that you plan to do before you go (oil change, fluids, etc.). You don't want to work on a car that has just been undercoated, very messy.
It is very important to put Silicone lube on all your door and trunk seals before you go for undercoating as well. This is to prevent the undercoating from melting your door seals if any overspray gets on them. I use Wurth Silicone in the tube that says you can use it on brakes when you lube slider pins etc.
I really do say that doing it yourself is best, as I have heard of places using old engine oil from their own waste tank for the undercoating. This motor oil may have old prestone, brake fluid, ATF etc. mixed in as well, and you can have big problems with your paint and door seals afterwards, so find an honest place, don't cheap out.
If you park in a heated garage, i'd wash the car weekly with a wash and wax (the wax added to the soap would help repel water a bit, and wash down your side windows into the door and leave a waxy film down there too, all while removing abrasive dirt and salts, and minerals).
I'd rinse out the wheel wells extremely well, even up top, and the shocks, brakes, etc. Spray heavy amounts of water on the windshield cowl (the vents just below the wipers) to melt any ice along that tray that may sit there, and rinse out the dirt and salt out of the drainage for your windshield.
If you don't undercoat anything and park in a heated garage, buy a flower watering wand where you can extend the neck 2-3 feet, put it on jet, and spray the whole underneath of the car.
Don't do this if you undercoat, or take it to an automatic car wash that sprays under your car, as you'll wash away the oily protective barrier.
Also, research a new car you plan on purchasing. A Honda may be less prone to rusting than, say, a Mazda of the same year. So research a rust belt car and be a bit choosey, that could save you on many rust issues without you even knowing about it.
I'd second the Fluid Film recommendation. I did both of our cars this year using 8 cans. That included taking down lots of underbody panels and shooting in behind them, and getting in the doors. The other nice thing about FF is it's safe for rubber, so the suspension bushings are protected too.
I did not realize they were still in business. I had my second car done by them in 1974. It worked. The cars then were rust buckets and I lived near the gulf. If you live where they salt the roads it might be just the ticket.
Zeibart and Rusty Jones was the thing for rust about 15 or 20 years ago. But the manufacturers started to do a better job in the vehicles. As I remember, Ziebart is more of a hard greasy/waxy material and was lifetime. The inspections were for rocks chipping the stuff off. But I think it was too thick to spray in cavities (they did anyway) and there were problems with the weep holes in doors getting clogged as I seem to remember.
But Fluid Film and Carwell are different. They are yearly and while not as thick, they do a better job of seeping into seams, joints, etc. Carwell sprays a slightly different grade of their product into cavities than on the frame.
There is a Ziebart in Albany.
But Fluid Film and Carwell are different. They are yearly and while not as thick, they do a better job of seeping into seams, joints, etc. Carwell sprays a slightly different grade of their product into cavities than on the frame.
There is a Ziebart in Albany.
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
If there was a place like thsi in the Boston area, I would want to take the Volvo to them!
There is a Ziebart in shrewsbury along Rt 9 heading into worcester. I use to pass it all the time during some work runs.
http://www.ziebart.com/locations/72/
If there was a place like thsi in the Boston area, I would want to take the Volvo to them!
There is a Ziebart in shrewsbury along Rt 9 heading into worcester. I use to pass it all the time during some work runs.
http://www.ziebart.com/locations/72/
The Fluid Film idea is a sound one. Also KROWN rust proof if youre ever in Canada. Second to none.
Originally Posted By: SLCraig
The Fluid Film idea is a sound one. Also KROWN rust proof if youre ever in Canada. Second to none.
Carwell in the US is the same as Krown.
Also once Carwell and I assume others have soaked in and dried somewhat, you can safely wash the vehicle including an underbody spray.
The Fluid Film idea is a sound one. Also KROWN rust proof if youre ever in Canada. Second to none.
Carwell in the US is the same as Krown.
Also once Carwell and I assume others have soaked in and dried somewhat, you can safely wash the vehicle including an underbody spray.
I don't know that I am in love with Ziebart, but anymore, they ate pretty much the only game in town (at least around here.)
I have had two cars Ziebarted, a 2000 Odyssey van that I no longer have (no rust) and a 2008 Mustang (still have, probably wouldn't have rust yet anyway.)
I find their "contracts" and "inspections " somewhat irritating and expensive ($60/yr around here for "powerwashing") and the fact that after ten years you pretty much are done with the protection. Cars generally are much more rust resistant now then they were in the 70's and 80's. Finally after 12 years, my daily driver is starting to show some rust inside the doors along the seams and nothing was done to that car except an occasional washing. Would I have been better off Ziebarting it? I doubt it.
I feel that back in the day, rustproofing was much more critical than it is now (unless you live in an extreme area.) The advantage then was that there was more competition. The manufactures had their own services (I had two new accords that I bought from a Honda dealer that had an adjoining Ford franchise and both were Ford "Super sealed") and have had a couple of Chryslers that had the Chrysler rustproofing applied to them. Never had any issues and two of those cars I had long enough that if they were going to rust through, they probably would. The warranties were much more flexible and not the hassle and expense of the Ziebart warranty.
I will know more about the Ziebart process on October 19 because I for the first time will be taking the Mustang in for the warranty check on instead of my wife. Having said all this, I still wish there were a KROWN franchise in the area.
I have had two cars Ziebarted, a 2000 Odyssey van that I no longer have (no rust) and a 2008 Mustang (still have, probably wouldn't have rust yet anyway.)
I find their "contracts" and "inspections " somewhat irritating and expensive ($60/yr around here for "powerwashing") and the fact that after ten years you pretty much are done with the protection. Cars generally are much more rust resistant now then they were in the 70's and 80's. Finally after 12 years, my daily driver is starting to show some rust inside the doors along the seams and nothing was done to that car except an occasional washing. Would I have been better off Ziebarting it? I doubt it.
I feel that back in the day, rustproofing was much more critical than it is now (unless you live in an extreme area.) The advantage then was that there was more competition. The manufactures had their own services (I had two new accords that I bought from a Honda dealer that had an adjoining Ford franchise and both were Ford "Super sealed") and have had a couple of Chryslers that had the Chrysler rustproofing applied to them. Never had any issues and two of those cars I had long enough that if they were going to rust through, they probably would. The warranties were much more flexible and not the hassle and expense of the Ziebart warranty.
I will know more about the Ziebart process on October 19 because I for the first time will be taking the Mustang in for the warranty check on instead of my wife. Having said all this, I still wish there were a KROWN franchise in the area.
Kestas
Staff member
My brother-in-law's 1978 Volare was rustproofed at Rusty Jones. Nine years later it was horribly perforated with rust.
Originally Posted By: Tdbo
I don't know that I am in love with Ziebart, but anymore, they ate pretty much the only game in town (at least around here.)
I have had two cars Ziebarted, a 2000 Odyssey van that I no longer have (no rust) and a 2008 Mustang (still have, probably wouldn't have rust yet anyway.)
I find their "contracts" and "inspections " somewhat irritating and expensive ($60/yr around here for "powerwashing") and the fact that after ten years you pretty much are done with the protection. Cars generally are much more rust resistant now then they were in the 70's and 80's. Finally after 12 years, my daily driver is starting to show some rust inside the doors along the seams and nothing was done to that car except an occasional washing. Would I have been better off Ziebarting it? I doubt it.
I feel that back in the day, rustproofing was much more critical than it is now (unless you live in an extreme area.) The advantage then was that there was more competition. The manufactures had their own services (I had two new accords that I bought from a Honda dealer that had an adjoining Ford franchise and both were Ford "Super sealed") and have had a couple of Chryslers that had the Chrysler rustproofing applied to them. Never had any issues and two of those cars I had long enough that if they were going to rust through, they probably would. The warranties were much more flexible and not the hassle and expense of the Ziebart warranty.
I will know more about the Ziebart process on October 19 because I for the first time will be taking the Mustang in for the warranty check on instead of my wife. Having said all this, I still wish there were a KROWN franchise in the area.
I did not know Ziebart charged an annual fee. For a little more than that you can have a vehicle done or redone with Carwell or Krown or FF.
I don't know that I am in love with Ziebart, but anymore, they ate pretty much the only game in town (at least around here.)
I have had two cars Ziebarted, a 2000 Odyssey van that I no longer have (no rust) and a 2008 Mustang (still have, probably wouldn't have rust yet anyway.)
I find their "contracts" and "inspections " somewhat irritating and expensive ($60/yr around here for "powerwashing") and the fact that after ten years you pretty much are done with the protection. Cars generally are much more rust resistant now then they were in the 70's and 80's. Finally after 12 years, my daily driver is starting to show some rust inside the doors along the seams and nothing was done to that car except an occasional washing. Would I have been better off Ziebarting it? I doubt it.
I feel that back in the day, rustproofing was much more critical than it is now (unless you live in an extreme area.) The advantage then was that there was more competition. The manufactures had their own services (I had two new accords that I bought from a Honda dealer that had an adjoining Ford franchise and both were Ford "Super sealed") and have had a couple of Chryslers that had the Chrysler rustproofing applied to them. Never had any issues and two of those cars I had long enough that if they were going to rust through, they probably would. The warranties were much more flexible and not the hassle and expense of the Ziebart warranty.
I will know more about the Ziebart process on October 19 because I for the first time will be taking the Mustang in for the warranty check on instead of my wife. Having said all this, I still wish there were a KROWN franchise in the area.
I did not know Ziebart charged an annual fee. For a little more than that you can have a vehicle done or redone with Carwell or Krown or FF.
Do these places powerwash the undercarriage before applying the rust protectant? Especially on used cars.
Originally Posted By: satinsilver
Do these places powerwash the undercarriage before applying the rust protectant? Especially on used cars.
Zeibart power washed mine, and never charged a fee for yearly inspections or touch ups. They are/were a franchise so it may vary. My dealings with them go back to the late 1980's to the early 1990's, times have changed and I'm sure their policy has too.
Do these places powerwash the undercarriage before applying the rust protectant? Especially on used cars.
Zeibart power washed mine, and never charged a fee for yearly inspections or touch ups. They are/were a franchise so it may vary. My dealings with them go back to the late 1980's to the early 1990's, times have changed and I'm sure their policy has too.
I call Ziebart protection "Peace of Mind".
My story, I lived in the midwest and had my new Subaru Ziebart rust protected. I was religious about weekly washes and annual inspections.
After 6 years, I started seeing signs of rust bubbles in the paint. I asked the dealer to address and filed a warranty claim. I had all my yearly inspection receipts (at $50+ each!) and submitted the required paperwork.
Surprisingly, I was told the warranty stated the panel had to "rust thru" before a claim could be presented. This was stated in the warranty.
Long story short, 3 years later after rust through was evident,
the Ziebart dealer denied claim stating owner neglect. Clearly, the dealer was trying to wiggle out of his responsibility because my I had 3 estimates to repair averaging $2,000.00.
I filed a small claims lawsuit and the day before the hearing the Ziebart dealer's attorney called my attorney and offered to settle.
Lesson to be learned, warranties are only as good as the organization backing them up. Ziebart Corporate does not get involved in warranty issues.... Caveat emptor!
My story, I lived in the midwest and had my new Subaru Ziebart rust protected. I was religious about weekly washes and annual inspections.
After 6 years, I started seeing signs of rust bubbles in the paint. I asked the dealer to address and filed a warranty claim. I had all my yearly inspection receipts (at $50+ each!) and submitted the required paperwork.
Surprisingly, I was told the warranty stated the panel had to "rust thru" before a claim could be presented. This was stated in the warranty.
Long story short, 3 years later after rust through was evident,
the Ziebart dealer denied claim stating owner neglect. Clearly, the dealer was trying to wiggle out of his responsibility because my I had 3 estimates to repair averaging $2,000.00.
I filed a small claims lawsuit and the day before the hearing the Ziebart dealer's attorney called my attorney and offered to settle.
Lesson to be learned, warranties are only as good as the organization backing them up. Ziebart Corporate does not get involved in warranty issues.... Caveat emptor!
Originally Posted By: Va Runner
I call Ziebart protection "Peace of Mind".
My story, I lived in the midwest and had my new Subaru Ziebart rust protected. I was religious about weekly washes and annual inspections.
After 6 years, I started seeing signs of rust bubbles in the paint. I asked the dealer to address and filed a warranty claim. I had all my yearly inspection receipts (at $50+ each!) and submitted the required paperwork.
Surprisingly, I was told the warranty stated the panel had to "rust thru" before a claim could be presented. This was stated in the warranty.
Long story short, 3 years later after rust through was evident,
the Ziebart dealer denied claim stating owner neglect. Clearly, the dealer was trying to wiggle out of his responsibility because my I had 3 estimates to repair averaging $2,000.00.
I filed a small claims lawsuit and the day before the hearing the Ziebart dealer's attorney called my attorney and offered to settle.
Lesson to be learned, warranties are only as good as the organization backing them up. Ziebart Corporate does not get involved in warranty issues.... Caveat emptor!
As with many warranties and aren't worth the paper they were written on. They're good right up until you have a problem, as your comments show. Good on you for taking them to court, in a sense the warranty paid off, less legal fees.
I call Ziebart protection "Peace of Mind".
My story, I lived in the midwest and had my new Subaru Ziebart rust protected. I was religious about weekly washes and annual inspections.
After 6 years, I started seeing signs of rust bubbles in the paint. I asked the dealer to address and filed a warranty claim. I had all my yearly inspection receipts (at $50+ each!) and submitted the required paperwork.
Surprisingly, I was told the warranty stated the panel had to "rust thru" before a claim could be presented. This was stated in the warranty.
Long story short, 3 years later after rust through was evident,
the Ziebart dealer denied claim stating owner neglect. Clearly, the dealer was trying to wiggle out of his responsibility because my I had 3 estimates to repair averaging $2,000.00.
I filed a small claims lawsuit and the day before the hearing the Ziebart dealer's attorney called my attorney and offered to settle.
Lesson to be learned, warranties are only as good as the organization backing them up. Ziebart Corporate does not get involved in warranty issues.... Caveat emptor!
As with many warranties and aren't worth the paper they were written on. They're good right up until you have a problem, as your comments show. Good on you for taking them to court, in a sense the warranty paid off, less legal fees.
I agree, warranties are only as good as the place behind them. With respect to a rust through warranty, the one from the vehicle manufacturer is one to count on, but the rust proofing I got at a Carwell shop is to help the vehicle, doing the best I can to prevent rust. But I don't expect a warranty, just a good job.
I do know someone with a Toyota pickup where the frame rusted and Toyota got a new frame and swapped the vehicle onto the new frame. I would have thought they would buyout the rusted vehicle or something. The labor on a vehicle swap must have been very high.
I do know someone with a Toyota pickup where the frame rusted and Toyota got a new frame and swapped the vehicle onto the new frame. I would have thought they would buyout the rusted vehicle or something. The labor on a vehicle swap must have been very high.
I have a 98 chevy 1 ton truck that I bought five years ago that had been Ziebarted sometime in the past as it had all of the holes drilled everywhere that had plastic caps that said "Ziebart" on it. The truck didn't have any rust then and it still doesn't other than a little starting along the bottom of the door seam. We don't have Ziebart around here so I can't get it reapplied but a few months ago, I did remove all of the plugs and spray fluid film in the holes.
Wayne
Wayne
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