special application (demolition derby)

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probed_out

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hey everyone im new here i have recently gotten into demolition derby i was wondering if anyone could give me some advice on a specific oil to use on such an application. the engine is a 350 sbc from a 76 pickup the oil has to be pretty dang thick to help cool the engine for when (not if) the radiator blows

thank you in advance
 
Once the radiator gets smashed your pretty much done. The oil alone won't help cool it much. You need to protect the front as much as possible. Run the starter solonoid to a good switch and use large wire to help that Chevy start when it's hot.

:Hint: Fords and Mopars don't have hot starter problems like GM does.
 
really no different than enduro dirt track i would use VR1 but have seen a lot of rotella before the zinc content dropped i would set it up like a dirt track car.Racing radiator, water restrictor, trans cooler etc
 
I ran a Derby once with a 305 small block Chevy. I think we used Advance Auto Parts brand HD 40. Sure enough lost all the coolant out of the engine and it stalled and would not restart. We went back after the heat and it fired right back up. That engine must have been really hot!
 
I read of a successful demo driver once. His secret was to stay running at all costs. He ran the 307, not for power, but for it's extra thick cylinder walls. He had all bearing clearances opened up to ridiculous amounts, opened up the valve guides, piston to wall - everything! Carb idle was set way high to help prevent stalling, lowered the float levels to prevent spillover and he ran a huge truck battery for it's high amp hour rating so he could crank till the cows came home. The one thing that I can't remember is what oil he ran!

My money would be on Kendall Nitro 70
 
i would think overly thick oil wouldnt flow as well and cause more heat. the oil will only cool until it gets to hot and shears completely. most modern oils can stand high heat, id probably use a 40wt synthetic with a high shear rating like euro spec'd oil, if you dont mind the price. but the reality is, your trashing it anyway so 5 qts of walmart oil in a 10w40 or 10w30 or whatever is good enough for that. i knew a guy who used to keep the 4t 10w40 mobil 1 motorcycle oil he drained from his crotch rocket which he only ran 1,500 miles on, and save it for his derby cars. seemed to work good.
 
When the radiator gets knocked out, heat will thin the oil down anyway. It's overly likely that oil temps will be significantly above a typical PCMO's scope.
 
Also: if you can run two stroke additive legally in the derby, do it, the added lubrication helps if you start overheating to a point where you can seize a piston brutally.
 
My first thought was something like Quaker State Defy in the 10w40 flavor due to its Zinc and that it is kind of designed for cars that are on their last leg.

However, a Synthetic 50 weight would probably be a good thing in this application. You WILL pop a radiator. So it will be shear, or the fact the engine is damaged which will put you out of the race.

Don't know. A bunch of 50 weights really arn't that shear resistant. Do your research if you choose a 50 weight.

Kinda thinking Mobil 1 5w40 High Mileage. Kind of the best of both worlds.
 
Trust me, zinc isn't gonna matter, neither is shear. Just get whatever is thick as [censored]. A derby is short enough and you want anything to keep a limping horse standing, nothing else really matters.
 
Originally Posted By: FFeng7
I ran a Derby once with a 305 small block Chevy. I think we used Advance Auto Parts brand HD 40. Sure enough lost all the coolant out of the engine and it stalled and would not restart. We went back after the heat and it fired right back up. That engine must have been really hot!


I drove a 1983 Pontiac Parisienne station wagon with a 305. I don't know if we even changed the oil. The first year one of my classmates drove the car and blew the governor cover off of the transmission it caught fire on our open headers. I rebuilt the transmission and drove it the next year. After two derbies the front end barely had any damage. We had people wanting to buy the car after the derby for the engine, it was a bone stock 305 with open headers and the quadrajet secondaries wired to open mechanically.
 
Thick is it I reckon...20W-50 is pretty shear stable.

It's probably one case that I'd consider additives, like MOS2, some of the powdered metallic, or graphite ones to stop the final "stick", maybe even a chlorinated parafin, or e.p. type additive.

Have heard rumours of gear oil in engines to stop them siezing (not for longevity)
 
Originally Posted By: AVB
Originally Posted By: FFeng7
I ran a Derby once with a 305 small block Chevy. I think we used Advance Auto Parts brand HD 40. Sure enough lost all the coolant out of the engine and it stalled and would not restart. We went back after the heat and it fired right back up. That engine must have been really hot!


I drove a 1983 Pontiac Parisienne station wagon with a 305. I don't know if we even changed the oil. The first year one of my classmates drove the car and blew the governor cover off of the transmission it caught fire on our open headers. I rebuilt the transmission and drove it the next year. After two derbies the front end barely had any damage. We had people wanting to buy the car after the derby for the engine, it was a bone stock 305 with open headers and the quadrajet secondaries wired to open mechanically.


I had a caprice sedan. Not sure how close that is to a Parisienne but probably the same General Motors platform. It actually was a decent car. My brother drove it for a few years and he just got tired of it. I kind of wish that I would have fixed it up and kept it for myself.
 
Originally Posted By: RiceCake
Also: if you can run two stroke additive legally in the derby, do it, the added lubrication helps if you start overheating to a point where you can seize a piston brutally.


Excellent idea. mix that beast at 32:1 put in some non-foulers and let it smoke away!!
 
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